The Dark Side - Upper Tier

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Perched Block Buttress >

Sport
Morning sun
15 mins
Uphill

To the left of the main Papacy Buttress, the Upper Tier swings around to face east. This section features a collection of routes on blocky rock which can be dusty. There is also a small selection of indifferent trad routes amongst the sporty ones.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
It has to End Somewhere
Climb the slab trending leftwards to a lower-off.
 6a
2
Will it Never End
The left-hand pillar.
 4c
3
Is this the End?
 5a
4
Coming to an End
The narrow pillar.
 6a+
5
End Games
The cracks on the sidewall of the pillar to a lower-off.
 HVS 5a
6
In My Darkest Hour
The left-hand side of the slab.
 5a
7
Endsville
The flat face on the far left has a tough finale.
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
6a
8
Centreville
A crack to a flake.
1 user comment
 6a
9
Preston North End
The arete of the End Buttress.
 6c
10
Will They?
The short red wall.
 5a
11
People Will Talk
A slabby arete with a nice finish.
4 user comments
 5c
12
The Parting of the Lips
The narrow wall is gained by a scramble up and left.
2 user comments
 
Crimpy
5a
13
Ear to Ear
A thin face with a mid-height crux.
 6a+
14
Uncreased
The left-hand of a pair of cracks.
 VS 4c
15
Hairline
The right-hand crack passing a good flake early on.
 VS 4c
16
The Mouth Waters
The narrowing black wall is one of the best hereabouts.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b+
17
I'm a Port Vale Dribbler
 6a
18
George Stark Calling
The fine arete of the buttress has some good moves.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
19
Stark Disbelief
The centre of the face is unbalanced with a fierce crux section.
 
Technical
6c+
20
The Dark Half
A fine route with good moves on the upper arete.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
21
Graveyard Blues
The arete in the recess around to the right.
 6a+
22
In Stark Contrast
After a hard start, climb past a pair of breaks to the lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
23
Ghost Writer
 5c
24
Under the Lifeline
 6b
25
Over the Deadline
The left-hand line is the best on this short wall.
 6b
26
Automatic Writing
The middle line of bolts is tricky above mid-height.
 6a
27
Fools Stuffing
Awkward at mid-height. Try to avoid using the chimney.
 6a+
28
Pillar of Wisdom
Scramble to the left-hand buttress and weave up it.
 6b
29
The Invasion of the Creepazoid
The central buttress improves after the start. Sustained.
 
Pumpy
6c+
30
Later That Night
The right-hand buttress, finishing up a short crack.
 6b
31
The Coming of the Sparrows
The thin slab leads to steeper moves up the cleaned rib.
 
1 Stars
5c
32
Flight of the Finches
The technical face and pillar above.
 6c
33
Stop the Pigeon
Climb past a thin overlap and up a short rib.
 
Technical
6b+
34
Ken Dodd's Dad's Dog's Dead
The fingery crack to a lower-off on the right. A selection of gear is required.
 HVS 5b
35
Gathering Darkness
The short face is technical and sustained.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
6c+
36
A Trip on the Dark Side
A decent, but disjointed pitch. From the grotty groove head left up the fingery wall to ledges. Finish direct up the right-hand...
12 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6a+
37
Feel My Presence
Climb rightwards (higher is easier) out of the grotty groove to access the sharp arete which gives some technical laybacking.
3 user comments
 6b+
38
Tapenard
Climb the pillar then work up leftwards.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6b
39
Wild Olives
Climb through a cleaned area of rock then on via a couple of thin overlaps to a finish up the blocky rib. Better then it looks.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b
40
Gorignak
Step left out of the groove and cross the overlap. Continue up the cracked wall above to an interesting finish.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b
41
Galaxy Quest
The crack-line.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
5c
42
Omega 13
Follow the thin crack to its end then continue up the face and blunt rib. A good last move if you stay direct.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6a+
43
Dr Lazarus
Pull through the overhang and follow cracks to a rightward exit. Short-lived sport with a high first bolt.
1 user comment
 6a+
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  • Latest Comments

    For HARPUR HILL

    Yardcore
    "Changed from 5c to E3 =, no votes" 10/Sep

    The Seven Deadly Sins
    "The line and description has changed with the recent update but the actual lines..." 05/Sep

    Swain's World
    "Good climbing but rather sparsely bolted for comfort - deserves a flutter symbol..." 25/Jul

    A Trip on the Dark Side
    "The lower wall has very good climbing but moving left and leaving the 2nd bolt g..." 21/Jul

    Riding Shogun
    "Steady to steep pulls through bulge and tricky finale." 14/Jul

    Centreville
    "Goodness knows where this is supposed to go! The route to the immediate right of..." 11/Jul

    Apollo Creed
    "Great moves & rock. Starting up Rocky Variations for two bolts is worthwhile..." 28/Jul

    Mine Anarchy
    "Definitely 6a - tricky!" 28/Jun

    Slowly, Slowly Catch a Monkey
    "Barely worth a star in its current rather dirty state. Unfortunately that's the ..." 20/Jun

    People Will Talk
    "Much harder than 5, and dangerously bolted - the crux is reaching the third bolt..." 14/May

    Expecting
    "Easy, a soft touch at F5?" 01/Oct

    Senile Delinquents
    "Again very spaced gear. Would not like to be onsighting this at my limit." 21/Aug

    Sumo
    "Hard crux on quite sharp holds, bit loose and snappy for any stars." 05/May

    Saweno Gancho
    "Loose rock and contrived line." 25/Apr

    Over the Hill
    "Brilliant route - never hard but sustained." 24/Apr

    Tiny Tots
    "Gary's website gives this route 5. The grade of 6a here is much more like it (an..." 21/Apr

    Rocky Variations
    "Three stars. Continued sustained technical climbing with no single move signifi..." 16/Jun

    Coral Seas
    "I pulled a massive chunk off. i think it was most of the big bulge, whilst i was..." 29/Sep top50

    Senile Delinquents
    "Quite a fun route, even if I did break my ankle...." 10/Sep

    The Seven Deadly Sins
    "A fine adventure on generally good interesting rock (although beware a couple of..." 31/Aug

    Apollo Creed
    "Loved this route, no problems with the reach." 24/Aug

    Breakfast at Safeways
    "Confused about the line. I started direct to a high first bolt...felt hard for ..." 06/Jul

    Dementia Normale
    "This was the oddity of making the route fit the wrongly described route. The bel..." 24/Jun

    Dementia Normale
    "Now has its own lower off" 23/Jun

    Senile Delinquents
    "It's quite good, but Heaven Crack it aint!" 06/Jun

    Dementia Normale
    "There is a serious error in the Rockfax guide. But this could have serious issue..." 31/May

    Kamikaze Clone
    "First this route is F5+ at most, never F6a+. Second it's a rubbish route; if the..." 19/Apr

    Ratline
    "I redpointed this and did Cairn on the same day. They are for sure 2 grades apar..." 19/Sep

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