The Lower Tier

Adjacent Areas
< College Buttress  |  Cairn Area >

Sport
Evening sun
Uphill
8 mins

An extensive wall of rather scrappy rock. There are plenty of routes to go at here, and as long as you don't expect too much, you won't be badly disappointed. Guidebook page 122.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Thank-you Grooves
The orange, scarred grooves right of the scree.
1 user comment
 
Loose
5
2
Wallaclism
Trend left up the wall passing the crack/groove.
 
Pumpy
Loose
6b
3
Arteaclism
Teeter up the short, shattered arete.
 
Loose
6a+
4
Overbored
Climb the slabby rock right of a groove, leftwards.
 
1 Stars
5
5
Gatting the Groove
The groove with a steep start.
2 user comments
 5+
6
Mine Anarchy
The left-hand line on the right-hand slab.
2 user comments
 5+
7
Only Ken's Anarchy Will Do
The second line on the slab. Tricky at the third bolt.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b
8
Always Break the Rules
Intricate moves right of a diagonal borehole.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
5+
9
Snap Decision
The final line on the slab.
 5+
10
The Candyman
The left-hand line is quite sustained.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
11
Flossy's Slab
A good little pitch.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
6a+
12
Toy Story
Head past the edge of the flake and on to a rightward exit.
 6a
13
Suck on This
From the hanging flake, loop left then right up the wall.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
6a+
14
Jelly Beans
 6a+
15
Smartie People are Happy People
The left-hand line on a grey slab. Avoid the route to the right.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a
16
Candy Store
The right-hand arete of the slab.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
6a
17
Tempting Children
Climb onto a pedestal right of the central crack, then power through two overlaps. Escape out right.
 6c+
18
Would you like a Sweety?
Good steep climbing through the double overlaps.
 
1 Stars
6c
19
Bolts 'R' Us
A rib leads to an open, shallow groove, then a roof.
 
1 Stars
6b
20
Sing for Your Dinner
The right-hand line is steep and quite hard work.
 
1 Stars
6b+
21
Do Little

2 user comments
 6a
22
Playground Bully
Muscle up the face right of the grotty red crack.
 6b+
23
The Sweat Shop
Up the narrow pillar.
2 user comments
 6a
24
Totti for England
The solitary line on a slab.
1 user comment
 4
25
A Bit of Totty
The rib on the left and the steeper wall above.
4 user comments
 
Pumpy
Loose
6a+
26
Top Totty
The cracked rib right of the groove, and the face beyond.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
5
27
Jelly Tots
The thin crack and groove are not the best around.
1 user comment
 5
28
Tiny Tots
Better. The centre of the smoother wall to easier rock.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
6a
29
Teeny Tots
The right-hand side of the wall eases with height.
 6a
30
The Jap's Eyes are on You
The grey wall on the left, avoiding the groove.
 6b+
31
Outside Tokyo
The flaky groove and hard overhang lead to easy ground.
 6b
32
Nagasaki Grooves II
Climb the leaning groove until an escape left can be made.
 
Loose
6b
33
Sumo
Heavyweight action up the pillar and smooth wall.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
34
A Nip in the Air
Climb through a notch in the roof then up the thin crack.
 6b
35
Geisha Grooves
The main groove, keeping left at the difficulties. Tricky.
4 user comments
 6a
36
Saweno Gancho
The right wall of the groove is sustained and steep.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
37
Setting Sons
The groove in the arete, starting by some blocks.
3 user comments
 6a
38
The Golden Goose
The poor slab on the left improves a little with height.
1 user comment
 5
39
Hong Hong Fewy
The balancy left-hand edge of the buttress.
3 user comments
 6a+
40
The Rising Sun
The central line is high in the grade.
4 user comments
 5
41
Kamikaze Clone
The right-hand edge of the short, clean central buttress.
2 user comments
 6a
42
Shang-Hai
Climb the slab and roofs directly above.
 6b
43
Riding Shogun
Break right and weave through the bulges.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
44
Fuji Fantastic
The steep wall just right of a large, jutting flake.
 6a
45
Picture This
The upper part of the pillar is on better rock than the start.
 6a
46
Jokoharma
The deep groove is an oddity - a surviving trad route.
 VS 5a
47
The Bullet
Tough climbing up the wall just right of the arete.
 
Technical
Pumpy
7a
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  • Latest Comments

    For HARPUR HILL

    The Seven Deadly Sins
    "The line and description has changed with the recent update but the actual lines..." 05/Sep

    Swain's World
    "Good climbing but rather sparsely bolted for comfort - deserves a flutter symbol..." 25/Jul

    A Trip on the Dark Side
    "The lower wall has very good climbing but moving left and leaving the 2nd bolt g..." 21/Jul

    Riding Shogun
    "Steady to steep pulls through bulge and tricky finale." 14/Jul

    Centreville
    "Goodness knows where this is supposed to go! The route to the immediate right of..." 11/Jul

    Apollo Creed
    "Great moves & rock. Starting up Rocky Variations for two bolts is worthwhile..." 28/Jul

    Mine Anarchy
    "Definitely 6a - tricky!" 28/Jun

    Slowly, Slowly Catch a Monkey
    "Barely worth a star in its current rather dirty state. Unfortunately that's the ..." 20/Jun

    People Will Talk
    "Much harder than 5, and dangerously bolted - the crux is reaching the third bolt..." 14/May

    Expecting
    "Easy, a soft touch at F5?" 01/Oct

    Senile Delinquents
    "Again very spaced gear. Would not like to be onsighting this at my limit." 21/Aug

    Sumo
    "Hard crux on quite sharp holds, bit loose and snappy for any stars." 05/May

    Saweno Gancho
    "Loose rock and contrived line." 25/Apr

    Over the Hill
    "Brilliant route - never hard but sustained." 24/Apr

    Tiny Tots
    "Gary's website gives this route 5. The grade of 6a here is much more like it (an..." 21/Apr

    Rocky Variations
    "Three stars. Continued sustained technical climbing with no single move signifi..." 16/Jun

    Coral Seas
    "I pulled a massive chunk off. i think it was most of the big bulge, whilst i was..." 29/Sep top50

    Senile Delinquents
    "Quite a fun route, even if I did break my ankle...." 10/Sep

    The Seven Deadly Sins
    "A fine adventure on generally good interesting rock (although beware a couple of..." 31/Aug

    Apollo Creed
    "Loved this route, no problems with the reach." 24/Aug

    Breakfast at Safeways
    "Confused about the line. I started direct to a high first bolt...felt hard for ..." 06/Jul

    Dementia Normale
    "This was the oddity of making the route fit the wrongly described route. The bel..." 24/Jun

    Dementia Normale
    "Now has its own lower off" 23/Jun

    Senile Delinquents
    "It's quite good, but Heaven Crack it aint!" 06/Jun

    Dementia Normale
    "There is a serious error in the Rockfax guide. But this could have serious issue..." 31/May

    Kamikaze Clone
    "First this route is F5+ at most, never F6a+. Second it's a rubbish route; if the..." 19/Apr

    Ratline
    "I redpointed this and did Cairn on the same day. They are for sure 2 grades apar..." 19/Sep

    Ratline
    "Fr7b+. No doubt about it." 16/Sep

    Nostalgia
    "Please DO NOT bolt this line. It - along with some of the easier trad at HH - is..." 24/Aug

    Nostalgia
    "Would love to see this bolted up Gary. really enjoyed Over the Hill too." 15/Aug

    Different Seasons
    "The route now sports a peg which protects the moves up to the first bolt." 28/Jul

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