Adjacent Areas
< College Buttress | Cairn Area >
An extensive wall of rather scrappy rock. There are plenty of routes to go at here, and as long as you don't expect too much, you won't be badly disappointed. Guidebook page 122.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Thank-you Grooves The orange, scarred grooves right of the scree. 1 user comment | Loose | 5 |
2 |
Wallaclism Trend left up the wall passing the crack/groove. | Pumpy Loose | 6b |
3 |
Arteaclism Teeter up the short, shattered arete. | Loose | 6a+ |
4 |
Overbored Climb the slabby rock right of a groove, leftwards. | 1 Stars | 5 |
5 |
Gatting the Groove The groove with a steep start. 2 user comments | 5+ | |
6 |
Mine Anarchy The left-hand line on the right-hand slab. 2 user comments | 5+ | |
7 |
Only Ken's Anarchy Will Do The second line on the slab. Tricky at the third bolt. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | 6b |
8 |
Always Break the Rules Intricate moves right of a diagonal borehole. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 5+ |
9 |
Snap Decision The final line on the slab. | 5+ | |
10 |
The Candyman The left-hand line is quite sustained. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6a+ |
11 |
Flossy's Slab A good little pitch. 5 user comments | 1 Stars | 6a+ |
12 |
Toy Story Head past the edge of the flake and on to a rightward exit. | 6a | |
13 |
Suck on This From the hanging flake, loop left then right up the wall. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | 6a+ |
14 |
Jelly Beans | 6a+ | |
15 |
Smartie People are Happy People The left-hand line on a grey slab. Avoid the route to the right. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | 6a |
16 |
Candy Store The right-hand arete of the slab. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Rounded | 6a |
17 |
Tempting Children Climb onto a pedestal right of the central crack, then power through two overlaps. Escape out right. | 6c+ | |
18 |
Would you like a Sweety? Good steep climbing through the double overlaps. | 1 Stars | 6c |
19 |
Bolts 'R' Us A rib leads to an open, shallow groove, then a roof. | 1 Stars | 6b |
20 |
Sing for Your Dinner The right-hand line is steep and quite hard work. | 1 Stars | 6b+ |
21 |
Do Little 2 user comments | 6a | |
22 |
Playground Bully Muscle up the face right of the grotty red crack. | 6b+ | |
23 |
The Sweat Shop Up the narrow pillar. 2 user comments | 6a | |
24 |
Totti for England The solitary line on a slab. 1 user comment | 4 | |
25 |
A Bit of Totty The rib on the left and the steeper wall above. 4 user comments | Pumpy Loose | 6a+ |
26 |
Top Totty The cracked rib right of the groove, and the face beyond. | 1 Stars | 5 |
27 |
Jelly Tots The thin crack and groove are not the best around. 1 user comment | 5 | |
28 |
Tiny Tots Better. The centre of the smoother wall to easier rock. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | 6a |
29 |
Teeny Tots The right-hand side of the wall eases with height. | 6a | |
30 |
The Jap's Eyes are on You The grey wall on the left, avoiding the groove. | 6b+ | |
31 |
Outside Tokyo The flaky groove and hard overhang lead to easy ground. | 6b | |
32 |
Nagasaki Grooves II Climb the leaning groove until an escape left can be made. | Loose | 6b |
33 |
Sumo Heavyweight action up the pillar and smooth wall. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a |
34 |
A Nip in the Air Climb through a notch in the roof then up the thin crack. | 6b | |
35 |
Geisha Grooves The main groove, keeping left at the difficulties. Tricky. 3 user comments | 6a | |
36 |
Saweno Gancho The right wall of the groove is sustained and steep. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 6c |
37 |
Setting Sons The groove in the arete, starting by some blocks. 3 user comments | 6a | |
38 |
The Golden Goose The poor slab on the left improves a little with height. 1 user comment | 5 | |
39 |
Hong Hong Fewy The balancy left-hand edge of the buttress. 2 user comments | 6a+ | |
40 |
The Rising Sun The central line is high in the grade. 3 user comments | 5 | |
41 |
Kamikaze Clone The right-hand edge of the short, clean central buttress. 1 user comment | 6a | |
42 |
Shang-Hai Climb the slab and roofs directly above. | 6b | |
43 |
Riding Shogun Break right and weave through the bulges. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6a+ |
44 |
Fuji Fantastic The steep wall just right of a large, jutting flake. | 6a | |
45 |
Picture This The upper part of the pillar is on better rock than the start. | 6a | |
46 |
Jokoharma The deep groove is an oddity - a surviving trad route. | VS 5a | |
47 |
The Bullet Tough climbing up the wall just right of the arete. | Technical Pumpy | 7a |