Adjacent Areas
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Evening sun
Uphill
15 minsRestricted Access
Occasionally restricted due to nesting birds
A gloomy spot at the left-hand extremity of the cliff that only sees the sun late on in the summer, although that makes it a good venue to escape from the heat. The routes include some excellent steep cracks and some more recent horrors. The area can be reached by walking through the whole of the rest of the quarry, or quicker, by following the quarry-top fence and descending into the final bay. Guidebook page 239.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Brindle 8m. The first route on the crag is not the best! | Loose | VS 4c |
2 |
Scrimsel 12m. A long crack is a bit on the loose side. | Loose | VS 4c |
3 |
Brimstone 12m. From beside the leaning blocks, climb the steep crack past plenty of nice fat wires. Low in the grade, but hard enough! 9 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E2 5b |
4 |
Satan's Slit 14m. The leaning crack with a kink early on, is gained from the left and sprinted on jams and jugs, passing a niche. Steep and... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5b |
5 |
Gates of Mordor 16m. The pod and leaning hand-crack give a withering pitch. The route swallows medium Friends aplenty and, though the initial... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
6 |
Pin Prick 16m. The thin crack in the front of the pillar is worthwhile. | 1 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | E2 5c |
7 |
Hacklespur 16m. Millstone's attempt at an answer to Peapod, although worth doing, doesn't have the cachet of the Curbar classic. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | HVS 5b |
8 |
Cauldron Crack 16m. Climb the right side of the arete then swing left and follow the slanting, fingery crack to easier ground. | 1 Stars Crimpy Loose | E3 5c |
9 |
Estremo 16m. The wide, twisting crack is easier than it looks if you enjoy fat fist-jamming. Pull over the roof and sprint up the... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
10 |
Gimbals 18m. Climb the long groove to the overhang, pull through this and climb the wall on the right via a shallow groove - good! 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical | HVS 5b |
11 |
Mother's Pride 18m. A fierce thin finger crack leads to a band of overhangs. Pull into the steep leaning groove and finish up this. London... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | E6 6c |
12 |
Perplexity 18m. The steep arete is technical as far as a band of poor rock. Step right and climb the difficult slanting groove, and the... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | E6 6b |
13 |
Plexity 22m. A fine long pitch up a steep crack in the centre of the wall. Follow it through a series of bulges to a rest on the right.... 10 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
14 |
Remembrance Day 22m. Climb the deep main groove at the back of the bay on its right-hand side to ledges and a finish up the continuation groove... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
15 |
Day Dream 20m. Climb the rib right of the main corner, then thin cracks and a shallow groove to a ledge. Follow the continuation crack in... 4 user comments | Loose | VS 4c |
16 |
Rainy Day 20m. At the right side of the ledge is a crack in a groove. Climb this to a ledge, then the continuation, past a couple of tiny... | Loose | VS 4b |
17 |
Commix 26m. A good but neglected line. Start from the ledge and follow the groove until the thin crack on the right can be accessed.... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Loose | E2 5c |
18 |
Top Loader 28m. The groove and hair-line cracks to the left of Saville Street are climbed until it is possible to trend right to reach the... | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | E7 6c |
19 |
Drifter 10m. Climb the arete to some pockets and poor gear. The arete above gives a desperate finish. The short wall just left is the... | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E7 6c |
20 |
Saville Street 28m. A fine finger crack, one of the best in the quarry. Gain the top of the pedestal awkwardly and climb the leaning crack to... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Crimpy | E3 6a |
21 |
Soho Sally 28m. Climb the flake to ledges then follow the shallow groove above (small gear) until it becomes necessary to swing onto the... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E1 5b |
