North Bay

Adjacent Areas
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Early morning sun
10 mins
Up and Down
Seepage
Sheltered

For most of the year this is a gloomy spot at the left-hand extremity of the cliff. It only sees the sun late on in the summer although that makes it a good venue to escape from the heat. The routes include some excellent steep cracks and some more recent horrors.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Brindle
The left-most route on the wall is neglected and grassy.
 
Loose
VS 4c
2
Scrimsel
The long crack. A decent line but crusty and rarely done.
 
Loose
VS 4c
3
Brimstone
From beside the leaning blocks, climb the steep crack past plenty of nice fat wires. Low in the grade, but hard enough.
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
E2 5b
4
Satan's Slit
The leaning crack with a kink early on, is gained from the left and sprinted on jams and jugs, passing a niche. Steep and...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
5
Gates of Mordor
The pod and leaning hand-crack give a withering pitch. The route swallows medium cams by the tonne and, although the initial...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
E3 5c
6
Pin Prick
The thin crack in the front of the pillar never gets done.
1 user comment
 E2 5c
7
Hacklespur
Millstone's answer to The Peapod is worth doing. Although it doesn't have the cachet of Curbar's classic, it is just as...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVS 5b
8
Cauldron Crack
Climb the right side of the arete then swing left and follow the slanting, fingery crack to easier ground. Worthwhile though...
 
1 Stars
Loose
E3 5c
9
Estremo
The wide, twisting crack is easier than it looks if you enjoy fat fist-jamming. Pull over the roof and sprint up the tricky...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
10
Gimbals
The long groove is climbed to the overhang. Pull through this and climb the wall just right via shallow groove. Good value!
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
11
Mother's Pride
A fierce finger-crack leads to a band of overhangs. Pull into the steep leaning groove and finish up this. London Pride, E5 6b,...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E6 6c
12
Perplexity
The steep arete is technical as far as a band of crusty rock. Step right and climb the difficult slanting groove, and the...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E6 6b
13
Apoplexy
The thrilling direct finish via the impressive soaring upper arete.
 
2 Stars
E7 6b
14
Plexity
A class act with a big feel. The fine steep crack in the centre of the wall leads through a series of bulges to a ledge out on...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVS 5a
15
Remembrance Day
Up the main groove at the back of the bay to ledges and a finish up the groove above the grass ledge. Steep and worthwhile...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
16
Day Dream
Climb the rib right of the main corner, then thin cracks and a shallow groove to a ledge. Follow the continuation crack in the...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
VS 4c
17
Rainy Day
At the right side of the ledge is a crack in a groove. Climb this to a ledge, then the continuation, past a couple of tiny...
 
Loose
VS 4b
18
Commix
A good line, pumpy but with decent gear. Avoid the lower groove to a ledge, then follow its continuation until the thin crack...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
E2 5c
19
Top Loader
The groove and hairline cracks to the left of Saville Street are climbed until it is possible to trend right to reach the arete...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
E7 6c
20
Drifter
Climb the arete to some pockets and gear. The arete above gives a desperate sloping finish. Finish up the next route, or abseil...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E7 6c
21
Saville Street
The superb but tough finger-crack in the right wall of the bay. Gain the top of the pedestal awkwardly and climb the leaning...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
E3 6a
22
Soho Sally
Climb the flake to ledges then follow the shallow groove above (small gear) until it becomes necessary to swing onto the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For MILLSTONE

    Knightsbridge
    "Changed from E2 5c ** to E2 5c ***, 30% of 24 votes for ***" 23/Mar

    Gimcrack
    "5a and hard VS if you follow the jamming crack without a deviation - might be 4c..." 13/Jun

    Coventry Street
    "I wonder if the votes for grading relate just to the bottom bit. The lead crux i..." 30/Mar

    Soho Sally
    "Really good varied climbing - but suffers a bit from lack of traffic - so get on..." 02/Sep

    Whitehall
    "Did this today - well done to whoever cleaned it up - it must have been a messy ..." 17/Aug

    Blind Bat
    "Old peg is actually OK and can be backed up with a friend 1 ish. Good crimping" 04/May

    Regent Street
    "I found the top crack hardest, both feet slipped but bomb proof finger locks and..." 15/Dec top50

    Piccadilly Circus
    "Good varied route when done as a big pitch. The hard section is short lived with..." 26/Oct

    Brimstone
    "E2 for me, but if you're happy hanging out on steep stuff with average holds it ..." 02/Oct

    Dextrous Hare
    "great route, good rp's protect" 15/Jul

    Lotto Direct
    "After the Lotto start (E1 5c), this is pretty easy at 5b max, but run out up the..." 10/Jul

    Oxford Street
    "Did the first pitch combined with Piccadilly Circus, which seemed the most logic..." 01/Jun

    Lambeth Chimney
    "Piece of rock at bottom of crag from recent rockfall in first part of chimney, t..." 12/Mar

    Regent Street
    "Great route, powerful then delicate then technical. Kept me in doubt all the wa..." 20/Aug top50

    Knightsbridge
    "lovely route. definately has a crux but never desperate and good gear plus climb..." 16/Aug

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