North Bay

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Evening sun
15 mins
Uphill
Sheltered
Restricted Access

A gloomy spot at the left-hand extremity of the cliff that only sees the sun late on in the summer, although that makes it a good venue to escape from the heat. The routes include some excellent steep cracks and some more recent horrors. The area can be reached by walking through the whole of the rest of the quarry, or quicker, by following the quarry-top fence and descending into the final bay.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Brindle
8m. The first route on the crag is not the best!
 
Loose
VS 4c
2
Scrimsel
12m. A long crack is a bit on the loose side.
 
Loose
VS 4c
3
Brimstone
12m. From beside the leaning blocks, climb the steep crack past plenty of nice fat wires. Low in the grade, but hard enough!
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
4
Satan's Slit
14m. The leaning crack with a kink early on, is gained from the left and sprinted on jams and jugs, passing a niche. Steep and...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
5
Gates of Mordor
16m. The pod and leaning hand-crack give a withering pitch. The route swallows medium Friends aplenty and, though the initial...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
6
Pin Prick
16m. The thin crack in the front of the pillar is worthwhile.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E2 5c
7
Hacklespur
16m. Millstone's attempt at an answer to Peapod, although worth doing, doesn't have the cachet of the Curbar classic.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
8
Cauldron Crack
16m. Climb the right side of the arete then swing left and follow the slanting, fingery crack to easier ground.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Loose
E3 5c
9
Estremo
16m. The wide, twisting crack is easier than it looks if you enjoy fat fist-jamming. Pull over the roof and sprint up the...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
10
Gimbals
18m. Climb the long groove to the overhang, pull through this and climb the wall on the right via a shallow groove - good!
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
11
Mother's Pride
18m. A fierce thin finger crack leads to a band of overhangs. Pull into the steep leaning groove and finish up this. London...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E6 6c
12
Perplexity
18m. The steep arete is technical as far as a band of poor rock. Step right and climb the difficult slanting groove, and the...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E6 6b
13
Plexity
22m. A fine long pitch up a steep crack in the centre of the wall. Follow it through a series of bulges to a rest on the right....
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
14
Remembrance Day
22m. Climb the deep main groove at the back of the bay on its right-hand side to ledges and a finish up the continuation groove...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
15
Day Dream
20m. Climb the rib right of the main corner, then thin cracks and a shallow groove to a ledge. Follow the continuation crack in...
4 user comments
 
Loose
VS 4c
16
Rainy Day
20m. At the right side of the ledge is a crack in a groove. Climb this to a ledge, then the continuation, past a couple of tiny...
 
Loose
VS 4b
17
Commix
26m. A good but neglected line. Start from the ledge and follow the groove until the thin crack on the right can be accessed....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
E2 5c
18
Top Loader
28m. The groove and hair-line cracks to the left of Saville Street are climbed until it is possible to trend right to reach the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E7 6c
19
Drifter
10m. Climb the arete to some pockets and poor gear. The arete above gives a desperate finish. The short wall just left is the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E7 6c
20
Saville Street
28m. A fine finger crack, one of the best in the quarry. Gain the top of the pedestal awkwardly and climb the leaning crack to...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
E3 6a
21
Soho Sally
28m. Climb the flake to ledges then follow the shallow groove above (small gear) until it becomes necessary to swing onto the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For MILLSTONE

    Gimcrack
    "5a and hard VS if you follow the jamming crack without a deviation - might be 4c..." 13/Jun

    Coventry Street
    "I wonder if the votes for grading relate just to the bottom bit. The lead crux i..." 30/Mar

    Soho Sally
    "Really good varied climbing - but suffers a bit from lack of traffic - so get on..." 02/Sep

    Whitehall
    "Did this today - well done to whoever cleaned it up - it must have been a messy ..." 17/Aug

    Blind Bat
    "Old peg is actually OK and can be backed up with a friend 1 ish. Good crimping" 04/May

    Regent Street
    "I found the top crack hardest, both feet slipped but bomb proof finger locks and..." 15/Dec top50

    Piccadilly Circus
    "Good varied route when done as a big pitch. The hard section is short lived with..." 26/Oct

    Brimstone
    "E2 for me, but if you're happy hanging out on steep stuff with average holds it ..." 02/Oct

    Dextrous Hare
    "great route, good rp's protect" 15/Jul

    Lotto Direct
    "After the Lotto start (E1 5c), this is pretty easy at 5b max, but run out up the..." 10/Jul

    Oxford Street
    "Did the first pitch combined with Piccadilly Circus, which seemed the most logic..." 01/Jun

    Lambeth Chimney
    "Piece of rock at bottom of crag from recent rockfall in first part of chimney, t..." 12/Mar

    Regent Street
    "Great route, powerful then delicate then technical. Kept me in doubt all the wa..." 20/Aug top50

    Knightsbridge
    "lovely route. definately has a crux but never desperate and good gear plus climb..." 16/Aug

    Eros
    "Did it again today, interesting all the way, 2 stars. Changed my mind, soft E1 ..." 10/Aug

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