Light Area

Adjacent Areas
< The Grotto  |  Deliverance Area >

Trad
Sun and Shade
Level
10 mins
Seepage

The buttress just to the right of the waterfall has some good rock but the waterfall can be distractingly noisy when in full flow. Further right is the huge dominating corner of Darkness. Surrounding this corner are a few esoteric sport lines and a couple of quality long traditional routes. Guidebook page 309.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Alien Water Kiss
24m. Start just to the right of the waterfall at a groove with a low peg. Move up the groove past the peg to the first...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
2
Darkness Beckons
27m. Follow Alien Water Kiss for a few metres and traverse right to gain the first horizontal break. Now go slightly right and...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
3
Slapstick
8m. A short bolt line just right of The Darkness Beckons.
 
Technical
Crimpy
7c
4
Who's For Tea
12m. Steep bulges on the shallow left-hand arete of the wall. The lower-off is on the ledge.
 
Reachy
Technical
7a+
5
In The Red
14m. The very hard yellow-stained groove in the centre of the wall to a lower-off on the ledge.
 
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
6
Moulin Rouge
17m. Belay at the left-hand lower-off above the lower wall - Green Carpet provides the best start. Move up to a high bolt and...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
7
Crash Test Dummy
15m. A series of difficult manoeuvres up the steep wall right of the yellow-stained groove. Lower-off on the ledge.
 
Reachy
Technical
7a+
8
Green Carpet
16m. A short route up the unappealling wall left of the huge corner chimney of Darkness. When dry and warm it gives a...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
9
Shadowlands
15m. A good trad continuation to Green Carpet.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
10
The Twilight Zone
16m. The bolt line just left of Darkness via a steep wall and overhang to a lower-off in the chimney.
 
Technical
Pumpy
6b+
11
Prince of Darkness
32m. A surprisingly popular route up the leaning sun-less wall to the right of the huge gaping corner of Darkness. Start just...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
12
Light
The sun-less wall right of the chimney of Darkness is only relatively brighter than its neighbour. A hard start is followed by...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Loose
E2 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For GORDALE

    Masochism Tango
    "This was the first route John and I did together. 1986 NOT 1988" 26/Nov

    Face Route
    "You want to move right a bit from the peg, which makes it about 6a." 03/Nov top50

    Cave Eliminate
    "Some harsh comments! Easily worth 2 stars being a good sustained route on great ..." 08/Jul

    Face Route
    "My mate says that the fixed gear is in a poor state now and then peg on the top ..." 24/Jun top50

    Supercool
    "Totally Awesome!" 25/Jun

    Nothing Lasts Forever
    "A decent route, the fun is packed into the last two bulges. Worth doing." 08/May

    Revitalised
    "Matt Troilett got the fa of this with mick" 30/Jan

    Deliverance
    "The crux is more technical than powerful. If you use the right holds in the righ..." 19/Sep

    Green Carpet
    "Re-bolted last week along with Crash Test Dummy to the left." 14/Sep

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