Toix Este

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Morning sun
6 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The left-hand end of the cliff has been developed with some longer easy routes, believed to be the work of Hannelore and Kurt Krentzenbeck. The bolts aren't as close as you might be used to so carry a few wires/threads. Helmets are a good idea. Guidebook page 314.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
George
Four pitches. Trend right initially then move back left.
 3+
2
Variante Juan Directa
Follow George for the first three bolts, then pull through the well-bolted overlap. Continue to a belay.
 5c
3
Juan
The next line on the face jigs right then left through the steep lower section. The gear is all threads, but the belays are...
 4a
4
Quick
Another four pitch route that starts up the rounded rib. Take a direct line, joining George in the middle section.
 4a
5
Horst
1) 4+, 2) 3, 3) 4, 4) 3+, 5) 3+. The first pitch (the best on the route) has several bolts, the second has a couple, and after...
 
1 Stars
4c
6
Spatz
Pull over a bulge and trend left up the grey slab. The first pitch (32m) is worthwhile, the remainder is a bit scrappier.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
5a
7
Puma
A good, fingery pitch up the right-hand side of the steep bay.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
5c
8
Espolón Arta
1) 3, 2) 3, 3) 4, 4) 2. The right-trending arete (yellow threads) and its continuation is long, but proves to be nothing...
 4a
9
Eva's Traum
From a yellow thread, trend right to the sustained groove.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5c
10
Koch Platte
A nice route tackling the pockets and rough slab.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
5c
11
Genid
Good climbing just right of the prominent crack.
 
1 Stars
5a
12
Los Amigos
Up the slab to a well-bolted crux on spaced holds.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
5c
13
Ralf
A pleasant route up the gully to the right of Los Amigos. All the fixed gear is old threads, but there is a two-bolt belay for...
 
1 Stars
3
14
Kulore
Follow the first pitch of Super Kulore and continue in the same line in one big pitch.
 4a
15
Super Kulore
1) 4, 2) 3, 3) 3, 4) 3, 5) 4, 6) 4, 7) 4, 8) 3. At 260m, and eight pitches this one is an expedition that girdles the crag. The...
 
1 Stars
4a
16
Hetti
The line is marked by arrows and many threads. There is an optional stance at 25m if required. The top pitch is scrappier.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
4c
17
Fluida Conexión
An interesting initial section up the steep wall. Move right to gain a groove on the upper slab. The gear and belay are old.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
18
Fluida Conexión Izquierda
The left-hand branch out of Fluida Conexión. Either lower-off the threads or continue to the top.
 
Crimpy
6b
19
Borro el toro
A very fingery slab with one chipped hold.
 
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a+
20
Edward's Slab
Teeter up the edge of the slab with considerable difficulty.
 
Technical
Crimpy
7a
21
La tonta del bote
A devious variation, though with good moves. Start up Vía de los fakiros and traverse across to Edward's Slab.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b+
22
Vía de los fakiros
Climb up the right-hand side of the small roof, then step left and make a hard moves up above (tricky clip for shorties).
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
6b+
23
Hannah
A long route which follows the grey rib. The start is hard.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6b
24
Hekur
Another long one with many old threads and three bolts.
 
1 Stars
5c
25
Purpúreo
The slab starting just left of a cave is pleasantly-sustained.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5a
26
Spölli
Climb the cracks, the crux bulge is at 20m. There is a poor lower-off at 25m and another higher up.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
5a
27
Winter
A good route with a hard start up the slab, then continuing up steep rock above. Take care when lowering.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
6a
28
Verde
A thin start, then jugs above as things steepen up. The line is marked by paired bolts.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
5c
29
P
A line of old red marks up a thin crack. Finish up Verde.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
5c
30
Vía la fina
Climb the scoop to a cave (possible stance - 4+ to here). Tough moves gain the groove above. Exit left.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
5c
31
Plata
Another technical slab climb which crosses Vía pyramid. The start is the crux (slippery), above it is sharp. Old bolts.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6a+
32
Vía pyramid
The long diagonal line crossing the face is good. Take a light rack.1) 4+. Follow the groove - a bit shrubby - to the...
 
1 Stars
5a
33
Sol y bon tiempo
A fingery section at mid-height gives the difficulties.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
34
Vía yuyuba
The excellent central line has a hard move rightwards (too many pockets, try staying low) to access the groove left of the...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6a+
35
Vía yuyuba Directa
Continue direct from where the parent route moves right.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
36
El oso y el mandaron
Another popular roadside route, which has a fine lower wall and a tricky roof to finish. An escape leftwards is possible.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6a+
37
King Cucudrulu
Only one teeny weeny little hard move, but what a move!
 
Technical
7a
38
Verde dos
A slippery start leads to the groove, but break leftwards up the wall to a steep and sustained finish. Polished and pumpy.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a
39
La ramuna arenosa
Follow the big corner, then step left onto the wall for a finish that is a bit of a shocker.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a+
40
Going Solo
A polished technical nasty that has had too many ascents.
1 user comment
 
Technical
6c+
41
Graphic Whore
The rib is friable low down, but has a good finish over the bulge.
 
Technical
6c+
42
Amarillo
The line of yellow bolts is slippery, technical and balancy. The old lower-off is gone, use the last bolt or top out.
3 user comments
 
Technical
Rounded
6a
43
Adiós Dali
18m. A sustained and technical slab route which has been described as being similar to slate climbing.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
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  • Latest Comments

    For SIERRA DE TOIX

    4 You
    "Start is squeezed between two adjacent routes on non obvious holds, a bit artifi..." 30/Nov

    Monkey Wall
    "Fun climbing threw the hueco chimney with sufficiant bolts (first a little bit h..." 24/Nov

    Carlos
    "Pitch 1 is squeezed between Blue on one side, Red on 'tother; but betweenthere i..." 19/Nov

    The Toix Ridge
    "now and then dubious relais and sometimes long distances between bolts (on the e..." 16/Nov

    Jan
    "Pleasant and quite sustained. It can be done on a 60m rope if you angle your abs..." 21/Oct

    Lofi
    "Communication is impossible after the first pitch. If you are not used to moves ..." 22/Aug

    Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour
    "Last week I rebolted the complete route with stainless bolts, so the climb is pr..." 07/May

    Anna Maria la Pirata con Cojones
    "This is a 7c. It has never been 7c+. I am the first ascender and Paul Thorburn..." 29/Mar

    Cilber
    "Changed from 5+ * to 5+ **, 0% of 2 votes for **" 06/Mar

    Coming back to Life
    "I agree with this being upgraded to 6c, it's hard and scary. I had a brown trous..." 06/Mar

    Painted Wall
    "Gets harder and harder with height. Brilliant positions." 01/Feb

    Vía Missing Link
    "It isn't clear where to traverse. Down at the water (like the line in the topo) ..." 11/Jan

    Monkey Wall
    "Good route but 2 stars, not 3. There are bolts in the hueco filled "chimne..." 21/Nov

    Oma Sus
    "There's now another route called "Opa Mus" so take care at the start! ..." 12/Nov

    The Whole of Creation
    "There's a new route on the arete just left of this one. Good fun, a couple of se..." 06/Oct

    Enérgico
    "This is a great route! Easily 2 stars, maybe 3. It looks a lot tougher from belo..." 15/Aug

    Espolón Limaban
    "Upper pitch is a stunning pitch and bang on the grade as well I'd say." 26/Apr top50

    Lara
    "Bold for a 4+. Met the setter who was on the abseil down an adjacent route. Wort..." 07/Feb top50

    Espolón Limaban
    "A 3* route. The top pitch is a stunner." 02/Oct top50

    Candelabra del Sol
    "This has been rebolted and is an amazing route. Take around 20 clips The bolts o..." 08/Aug

    Cicky Bugger
    "nice fingery route one of the best about" 04/Apr

    La roja seis
    "Moving right - it is not escape, but the natural line. Avoiding the good holds i..." 25/Mar

    Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour
    "Rusty as before :-) Take some gear - especially if you don't use ENP!" 25/Mar

    La roja seis
    "Very well bolted. Very thin, especially between the 2nd and 4th bolts. You can..." 01/Mar

    Presto
    "yeah spaced bolts at the last 2 moves, needs care... but maybe I went in the wro..." 19/Feb

    Isla de encanta
    "done only first pitch. wall is marvelous and route also." 09/Feb

    Monkey Wall
    "Chimney is the obvious if run-out option and of course the route moves right at ..." 04/Jan

    Hova
    "Between Hafa and Hova, 28m up, is a rounded hollow with a shiny bolt in it. It's..." 09/Dec

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