Toix Oeste

Adjacent Areas
< Toix North  |  Toix Far Oeste >

Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Up and Down
2 mins

The most popular climbing on the Sierra de Toix is found at Toix Oeste. The routes here are one of the reasons for coming to the Costa Blanca - bolted winter-sun climbing at an easier grade than is usually available elsewhere. Some of the bolts on this crag are now rather old, although they are being gradually replaced. Several of the gaps here have been plugged with poorly equipped eliminates, we haven't described all of these here. Guidebook page 292.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Amarilla
HVS. The left arete of the wall has little fixed gear.1) 4, 24m. Take the easiest line up the left-hand arete of the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
5
2
Zorro Veloz
A fine climb up the left-hand side-wall of the bay, starting up a shallow white groove. The fixed gear is a bit sparse early...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
6b
3
Plata
Another good climb up a devious line. The gear is a bit old.1) 6a, 20m. A steep pitch up the left-hand side of the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a
4
Green Route I
A popular route which can be done in one huge pitch. It is quite devious - a bit of weaving is required to find the easiest...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6a+
5
A Black Route
A technically interesting route via the orange orifice and some fingery undercutting. The hardest hereabouts.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
6
Red Route Directa
The steep wall to the right. Lower-off as for the previous route, or (much better) continue up the next climb.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
7
Red Route I
This long single-pitch is one of the most popular routes on the crag (therefore a bit polished), upgraded by popular demand....
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
8
Black Route
Start in the same place as the previous route, but climb the slab to its right. It is possible to miss out the hard bit by...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b+
9
Green Route II
A good climb, which originally finished up the prominent flake of Espolón Limaban. The gear is of mixed vintage, but there is...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a
10
Bernardo
The left-hand line above the belay on the Green Route II.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a
11
Espolón Limaban Top 50
A fine and popular route up the impressive flake crack high on the face. It is the original route of the crag, put up in June...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5
12
Dedi - UBSA
This one has a rather sprightly colour scheme. Quite low in the grade, as long as you have a bit of oomph.1) 5, 26m. Follow...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
6a
13
Red Route II
An older classic that runs up the centre of the buttress in two pitches. The original red paint has almost gone.1) 5+, 28m....
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
5+
14
Del Plas
1) 5+, 26m. Follow black marks up the wall and through the overhangs to ledges. Avoiding the Blue Route is tricky.2) 5+,...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
5+
15
Carlos
1) 6a, 28m. Pink/black spots lead up the right-hand side of the face. A sustained and fingery pitch.2) 6a, 26m. Continue...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6a
16
Blue Route
1) 5+, 28m. Faded blue paint and chain-link bolts point the way up the wall and through a bulge.2) 5+, 30m. The bulging...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
5+
17
Posi
The line of pinkish spots paralleling Dire Straits. There is supposed to be a second pitch but it is barely independent.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a
18
Dire Straits
The large name has faded. Trend right up the rib (old orange spots) then climb the steep bulging wall to ledges.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5+
19
Dire Espolón
A slab leads to a groove wall and bulge. There maybe a 2nd pitch up the white rib.
 
1 Stars
5
20
Espolón Gris Top 50
A nice easier route up the right arete.1) 4+, 32m. Climb direct from the lowest point of the buttress with a jig left and...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
4+
21
Viejos tiempos
1) 4+,18m. 2) 4, 20m. The old trad route up the blocky grooves has been bolted and extended. It makes a useful addition.
 
1 Stars
4+
22
Tiempo Moderno
1) 6a+, 20m. 2) 5, 20m. The line of newish bolts to the right. The first two pitches are worth doing, above them the route...
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6a+
23
Método tradicional
20m. The blocky corner and grooves has no fixed gear. Pleasant enough though not really what you came to Spain for!
1 user comment
 4
24
Red Route III
Climb the steep slab into a groove. Up this and the spotty rib to its right. Can be started from the left (easier) or right...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a
25
Renov
A pleasant two pitch climb that gets all the sun that is going.1) 4+, 18m. From a block trend left to enter a pleasant...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
5
26
Manual Andres
1) 5, 2) 6a. Climb the wall passing the left edge of a small overhang to reach a good ledge. Continue 15m to the crux moves...
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6a
27
Green Route lll
This route follows the wall to the right. Old gear and polished!1) 6a, 25m. From a pedestal climb the wall and groove to a...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6a
28
Maria Reyes
The fingery wall left of El Menu de Dia leads to vertical climbing around a slight bulge at three quarters height, a stance and...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b
29
El Menú de Día
The curving groove. Where it blanks-out pull out right or continue direct at 6b+. Finish up the groove of Green Route III.
 
1 Stars
Technical
5+
30
Black Route II
The long rib right of the groove is a fine pitch, quite high in the grade. There is a poor stance at 20m and a steep finish up...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
5
31
Chabito
1) 4, 20m. 2) 4+, 15m. Climb the slab and rib beyond to a stance below steeper rock.. Move left and climb the crack, steep to...
 
1 Stars
4+
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  • Latest Comments

    For SIERRA DE TOIX

    4 You
    "Start is squeezed between two adjacent routes on non obvious holds, a bit artifi..." 30/Nov

    Monkey Wall
    "Fun climbing threw the hueco chimney with sufficiant bolts (first a little bit h..." 24/Nov

    Carlos
    "Pitch 1 is squeezed between Blue on one side, Red on 'tother; but betweenthere i..." 19/Nov

    The Toix Ridge
    "now and then dubious relais and sometimes long distances between bolts (on the e..." 16/Nov

    Jan
    "Pleasant and quite sustained. It can be done on a 60m rope if you angle your abs..." 21/Oct

    Lofi
    "Communication is impossible after the first pitch. If you are not used to moves ..." 22/Aug

    Magical Mystery Tour
    "Last week I rebolted the complete route with stainless bolts, so the climb is pr..." 07/May

    Anna Maria la Pirata con Cojones
    "This is a 7c. It has never been 7c+. I am the first ascender and Paul Thorburn..." 29/Mar

    P
    "Changed from 5 * to 5+ **, 0% of 1 vote for 5+, 0% of 1 vote for **" 06/Mar

    Coming back to Life
    "I agree with this being upgraded to 6c, it's hard and scary. I had a brown trous..." 06/Mar

    Painted Wall
    "Gets harder and harder with height. Brilliant positions." 01/Feb

    Vía Missing Link
    "It isn't clear where to traverse. Down at the water (like the line in the topo) ..." 11/Jan

    Monkey Wall
    "Good route but 2 stars, not 3. There are bolts in the hueco filled "chimne..." 21/Nov

    Oma Sus
    "There's now another route called "Opa Mus" so take care at the start! ..." 12/Nov

    The Whole of Creation
    "There's a new route on the arete just left of this one. Good fun, a couple of se..." 06/Oct

    Enérgico
    "This is a great route! Easily 2 stars, maybe 3. It looks a lot tougher from belo..." 15/Aug

    Espolón Limaban
    "Upper pitch is a stunning pitch and bang on the grade as well I'd say." 26/Apr top50

    Lara
    "Bold for a 4+. Met the setter who was on the abseil down an adjacent route. Wort..." 07/Feb top50

    Espolón Limaban
    "A 3* route. The top pitch is a stunner." 02/Oct top50

    Candelabra del Sol
    "This has been rebolted and is an amazing route. Take around 20 clips The bolts o..." 08/Aug

    Cicky Bugger
    "nice fingery route one of the best about" 04/Apr

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