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The most popular climbing on the Sierra de Toix is found at Toix Oeste. The routes here are one of the reasons for coming to the Costa Blanca - bolted winter-sun climbing at an easier grade than is usually available elsewhere. Some of the bolts on this crag are now rather old, although they are being gradually replaced. Several of the gaps here have been plugged with poorly equipped eliminates, we haven't described all of these here. Guidebook page 292.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Amarilla HVS. The left arete of the wall has little fixed gear.1) 4, 24m. Take the easiest line up the left-hand arete of the... 1 user comment	1 Stars Fluttery Loose	5
2	Zorro Veloz A fine climb up the left-hand side-wall of the bay, starting up a shallow white groove. The fixed gear is a bit sparse early... 1 user comment	2 Stars Technical Crimpy Fluttery	6b
3	Plata Another good climb up a devious line. The gear is a bit old.1) 6a, 20m. A steep pitch up the left-hand side of the...	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	6a
4	Green Route I A popular route which can be done in one huge pitch. It is quite devious - a bit of weaving is required to find the easiest...	2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy	6a+
5	A Black Route A technically interesting route via the orange orifice and some fingery undercutting. The hardest hereabouts.	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	7a
6	Red Route Directa The steep wall to the right. Lower-off as for the previous route, or (much better) continue up the next climb.	1 Stars Technical	6c
7	Red Route I This long single-pitch is one of the most popular routes on the crag (therefore a bit polished), upgraded by popular demand.... 3 user comments	3 Stars Technical Crimpy	6b
8	Black Route Start in the same place as the previous route, but climb the slab to its right. It is possible to miss out the hard bit by...	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	6b+
9	Green Route II A good climb, which originally finished up the prominent flake of Espolón Limaban. The gear is of mixed vintage, but there is... 1 user comment	2 Stars Technical	6a
10	Bernardo The left-hand line above the belay on the Green Route II.	2 Stars Technical	6a
11	Espolón Limaban Top 50 A fine and popular route up the impressive flake crack high on the face. It is the original route of the crag, put up in June... 8 user comments	3 Stars Pumpy	5
12	Dedi - UBSA This one has a rather sprightly colour scheme. Quite low in the grade, as long as you have a bit of oomph.1) 5, 26m. Follow... 2 user comments	2 Stars Strong	6a
13	Red Route II An older classic that runs up the centre of the buttress in two pitches. The original red paint has almost gone.1) 5+, 28m.... 2 user comments	2 Stars Pumpy	5+
14	Del Plas 1) 5+, 26m. Follow black marks up the wall and through the overhangs to ledges. Avoiding the Blue Route is tricky.2) 5+,... 2 user comments	2 Stars Pumpy	5+
15	Carlos 1) 6a, 28m. Pink/black spots lead up the right-hand side of the face. A sustained and fingery pitch.2) 6a, 26m. Continue... 1 user comment	1 Stars Technical Pumpy	6a
16	Blue Route 1) 5+, 28m. Faded blue paint and chain-link bolts point the way up the wall and through a bulge.2) 5+, 30m. The bulging... 1 user comment	2 Stars Pumpy	5+
17	Posi The line of pinkish spots paralleling Dire Straits. There is supposed to be a second pitch but it is barely independent. 1 user comment	1 Stars Technical	6a
18	Dire Straits The large name has faded. Trend right up the rib (old orange spots) then climb the steep bulging wall to ledges. 1 user comment	1 Stars Pumpy	5+
19	Dire Espolón A slab leads to a groove wall and bulge. There maybe a 2nd pitch up the white rib.	1 Stars	5
20	Espolón Gris Top 50 A nice easier route up the right arete.1) 4+, 32m. Climb direct from the lowest point of the buttress with a jig left and... 3 user comments	2 Stars	4+
21	Viejos tiempos 1) 4+,18m. 2) 4, 20m. The old trad route up the blocky grooves has been bolted and extended. It makes a useful addition.	1 Stars	4+
22	Tiempo Moderno 1) 6a+, 20m. 2) 5, 20m. The line of newish bolts to the right. The first two pitches are worth doing, above them the route...	2 Stars Crimpy	6a+
23	Método tradicional 20m. The blocky corner and grooves has no fixed gear. Pleasant enough though not really what you came to Spain for! 1 user comment		4
24	Red Route III Climb the steep slab into a groove. Up this and the spotty rib to its right. Can be started from the left (easier) or right... 1 user comment	1 Stars Technical Crimpy	6a
25	Renov A pleasant two pitch climb that gets all the sun that is going.1) 4+, 18m. From a block trend left to enter a pleasant... 6 user comments	2 Stars	5
26	Manual Andres 1) 5, 2) 6a. Climb the wall passing the left edge of a small overhang to reach a good ledge. Continue 15m to the crux moves...	2 Stars Crimpy	6a
27	Green Route lll This route follows the wall to the right. Old gear and polished!1) 6a, 25m. From a pedestal climb the wall and groove to a... 1 user comment	1 Stars	6a
28	Maria Reyes The fingery wall left of El Menu de Dia leads to vertical climbing around a slight bulge at three quarters height, a stance and...	1 Stars Crimpy	6b
29	El Menú de Día The curving groove. Where it blanks-out pull out right or continue direct at 6b+. Finish up the groove of Green Route III.	1 Stars Technical	5+
30	Black Route II The long rib right of the groove is a fine pitch, quite high in the grade. There is a poor stance at 20m and a steep finish up... 5 user comments	2 Stars	5
31	Chabito 1) 4, 20m. 2) 4+, 15m. Climb the slab and rib beyond to a stance below steeper rock.. Move left and climb the crack, steep to...	1 Stars	4+

Toix Oeste

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