Toix Far Oeste

Adjacent Areas
< Toix Oeste  |  Toix Placa >

Sport
Sun from mid-morning
4 mins
Downhill
Sheltered

To the right of the main Toix Oeste cliff is a gully, and beyond this is a short wall with a number of easy bolted routes. None of these is a mega-classic but they are amongst the most popular in the whole area. The numbers along the base of the cliff don't correspond to the route lines. Guidebook page 296.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
La roja una
Start where 'No 1' is written on the rock. Climb a groove and fluted slab.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
3
2
Asombroso
The rib gives a pleasantly-sustained pitch.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
3+
3
Costilla
Nice but polished. Climb the groove to awkward final moves.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
4c
4
La roja dos
A worthwhile pitch on good rock. Start by the faded number 2, and weave around a little to keep it easy.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
4a
5
Bella ruta
The centre of the steep slab is sustained.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
4a
6
Ocho fixe
The steep white slab.
 
1 Stars
4a
7
Hamna
The right-hand side of the slab is pleasant enough.
 
1 Stars
4a
8
Uroma
A shorter right-trending route.
 
1 Stars
3
9
La roja tres
Easy ground to a high first bolt, then tricky and polished moves are needed to gain the niche. Finish easily.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
5a
10
Help for Heroes
A line of four staple bolts.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
11
La cagona
Climb up then right. Gaining the big pocket is tricky and sharp.
 
1 Stars
4c
12
La roja quatro
The juggy slab is the easiest route here.
 
1 Stars
3
13
Bernd
A two pitcher, useful for multi-pitch practice. The bolts are very spaced on the first pitch. Abseil descent in two lengths.
 
1 Stars
4a
14
Senor Jones
Nice enough. Weave about a bit for the easiest line, or go direct.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
4a
15
Eve
A big pitch just to the right, take plenty of quick-draws. Currently no lower-off, scramble left to the belay on Bernd and...
 
1 Stars
4a
16
Presto
The slab left of the big fallen block has a tricky rock-over, followed by easier but bold climbing past a dubious flake and a...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
5c
17
Blunt
The rounded rib. It is harder than it looks and tricky to read.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
18
The Whole of Creation
Ape up the tufa on the left-hand side of the bay (polished at the crux) then continue up the easier groove above.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c
19
Enérgico
Start in the back of the bay. Climb the spaced pockets and roof above. Sustained and fun to an exit on the left.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
6a+
20
La roja seis
The short slab is over-bolted. The best holds are to the right of the bolts - direct is a bit harder.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
5c
21
El endo
The right-hand side of the slab is pleasant if you keep left, and scrappy (and 3+) if you keep right.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
4a
22
Darola
A long, but broken ramble up the arete to the right - threads.
 3+
23
Gracias Uwa
The first route has a steep finale.
 4c
24
Pequeno Gecko
The next one leads to the same lower-off. Again the finish is steep.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
5a
25
Grand Grill
Yet another with the crux right at the top, accessing the groove.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
5c
26
Lobo
Perhaps the best of this bunch. Climb up a rib and sharp slab.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a
27
Ausgeschissn
The last one is shorter.
 
1 Stars
4c
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  • Latest Comments

    For SIERRA DE TOIX

    4 You
    "Start is squeezed between two adjacent routes on non obvious holds, a bit artifi..." 30/Nov

    Monkey Wall
    "Fun climbing threw the hueco chimney with sufficiant bolts (first a little bit h..." 24/Nov

    Carlos
    "Pitch 1 is squeezed between Blue on one side, Red on 'tother; but betweenthere i..." 19/Nov

    The Toix Ridge
    "now and then dubious relais and sometimes long distances between bolts (on the e..." 16/Nov

    Jan
    "Pleasant and quite sustained. It can be done on a 60m rope if you angle your abs..." 21/Oct

    Lofi
    "Communication is impossible after the first pitch. If you are not used to moves ..." 22/Aug

    Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour
    "Last week I rebolted the complete route with stainless bolts, so the climb is pr..." 07/May

    Anna Maria la Pirata con Cojones
    "This is a 7c. It has never been 7c+. I am the first ascender and Paul Thorburn..." 29/Mar

    Cilber
    "Changed from 5+ * to 5+ **, 0% of 2 votes for **" 06/Mar

    Coming back to Life
    "I agree with this being upgraded to 6c, it's hard and scary. I had a brown trous..." 06/Mar

    Painted Wall
    "Gets harder and harder with height. Brilliant positions." 01/Feb

    Vía Missing Link
    "It isn't clear where to traverse. Down at the water (like the line in the topo) ..." 11/Jan

    Monkey Wall
    "Good route but 2 stars, not 3. There are bolts in the hueco filled "chimne..." 21/Nov

    Oma Sus
    "There's now another route called "Opa Mus" so take care at the start! ..." 12/Nov

    The Whole of Creation
    "There's a new route on the arete just left of this one. Good fun, a couple of se..." 06/Oct

    Enérgico
    "This is a great route! Easily 2 stars, maybe 3. It looks a lot tougher from belo..." 15/Aug

    Espolón Limaban
    "Upper pitch is a stunning pitch and bang on the grade as well I'd say." 26/Apr top50

    Lara
    "Bold for a 4+. Met the setter who was on the abseil down an adjacent route. Wort..." 07/Feb top50

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