Toix Placa

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun from mid-morning
10 mins
Up and Down

This extensive wall has a number of popular low-grade routes. Some of them cross sections of scrappy ground, but most also feature plenty of good climbing. Guidebook page 298.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Cilber
Despite some grotty terrain, this is a worthwhile route, and well equipped where it matters. Start right of a groove and...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Loose
5c
2
Ruwa
Pleasant enough despite the scrappy sections.1) 5, 30m. Climb the runnel in the wall below the ramp to a possible stance,...
 
1 Stars
Loose
5a
3
Oma Sus
A route with a fine top pitch. Start in the gully at the name.1) 4, 26m. Take the line of threads and bolts to a...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
5a
4
Lofi
A direct line heading towards the tree below the ridge.1) 3, 12m. Easy climbing on the left (threads) to a big ledge.2)...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
4c
5
Lara Top 50
1) 3+, 12m. Easy climbing, and not much gear, to the ledge.2) 4+, 18m. Trend up and right to a two-bolt belay in a...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
4c
6
Anto
Starting from the right-hand side of the ledge/bay.1) 3, 25m. A direct line up the slab following threads and bolts.2)...
 
1 Stars
5a
7
Ana
An easy start and a great second pitch.1) 3+, 28m. Pleasant climbing trending leftwards up walls and grooves to a stance...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
4c
8
Hewa
A long pitch up the slab to a groove. Continue up the rib (crux) then move out left, then back right behind a pinnacle to the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
5a
9
Taca Ploix
An old route with and old name. Effectively a right-hand start to Hewa. Protected by a peg and a couple of chain-link bolts and...
 
Technical
6a+
10
Mushu
Good climbing up the steep left-hand side of the tower passing a huge white scar with difficulty, to a steep finish. Glue-ins.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
6a
11
Ghost in the Shell
Fingery and sustained. Protected by some huge glue-in bolts.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6b+
12
Jan
Climb the pillar with a couple of tricky moves early on and then the grooves leftwards to a lower-off above a jammed block. If...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
4c
13
Los Urbanos
Tackle the rib trending slightly leftwards onto easier ground then continue direct by juggy climbing to the lower-off on the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
4c
14
Anbea
The right-hand arete of the face (threads and bolts) to just below where the angle eases, then traverse left just below the top...
1 user comment
 
Loose
4a
15
Jonas
A few bolts and lots of threads. It is a bit broken.
 4a
16
Alasdair
Easy climbing up the groove on the left-hand side of the face.
 
1 Stars
3+
17
Kurzer Genus
Plugs the small gap at the left edge of the wall.
 
1 Stars
5a
18
Kalk Svott Wiehnul
A technical line passing an odd white circle on the rock has some thin moves and feels a teeny bit bold.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
19
Heavy Boyfriend
Keep leftwards up the face above the white scar.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
20
Rudy Carrol
A right-hand finish is a bit harder.
 
1 Stars
6a+
21
Coming back to Life
A hard first clip, desperate moves past the bolt and sustained, thin climbing make this one memorable.
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c
22
Thalia
A taxing but safe move leads to romping. Easy for the tall.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
23
No Name
The right-hand side of the slab is indeed called No Name. A fine climb with a couple of threads supplementing the bolts.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6a+
24
Pegasus
There are 2 bolts at the start. Climb direct (6a+), or to the right, then trend right more easily. The bushes are a nuisance.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a
25
Cicky Bugger
From the name, step right to climb the steep wall in the back of the scoop. The second clip is a bit of a worry.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5c
26
Heaven Is...
Nice, balancy climbing up the rib, then move out right. The bolts are well spaced and the last one is tricky to clip.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
5c
27
Johanna
Another good route but spaced bolts make this one worrying unless you carry a few wires/threads to plug the gaps.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
5a
28
Heti
The line of jugs and threads, although on the crux it is possible to clip a bolt on 4 You. Many of the threads are REALLY old -...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
4c
29
4 You
The wall to the right of the threads of Heti is good and hard at the start with several tricky clips for shorties.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
6a
30
Semi Dulce
Climb the wall left of the groove to jugs, and a tricky move onto the slab. Move right, then climb direct on pockets - spaced...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
5c
31
Steinbeisser
Climb the rib right of the scruffy groove on good rock, then when the rib narrows step left and continue leftwards to a belay...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6a
32
Fantasia
Climb the clean rib with difficulty for 12m, then more easily to a lower-off where things turn grassy.
2 user comments
 
Technical
6a
33
For my son Jens
A pleasant rib (glue-in bolts) leads to a big ledge - a decent 5 this far. It is probably worth belaying here if you want a go...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
34
Aladdin
Easy and scruffy climbing leads to a hard finish (a one-move-wonder) up the right-hand side of the leaning scoop.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
6c
35
Hafa
Climb the cracked face directly for 20m (lots of old threads), then head right (arrows) then direct to a stance in a red niche....
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
4c
36
Hova
1) 4, 15m. The clean, slabby rib leads past threads and bolts to a two-bolt belay below steeper rock. A pleasant pitch.2)...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
4c
37
Noldis
1) 4, 15m. Follow the numerous threads up the clean rib below and left of the amphitheatre to a good stance.2) 4+, 15m....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
5c
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  • Latest Comments

    For SIERRA DE TOIX

    4 You
    "Start is squeezed between two adjacent routes on non obvious holds, a bit artifi..." 30/Nov

    Monkey Wall
    "Fun climbing threw the hueco chimney with sufficiant bolts (first a little bit h..." 24/Nov

    Carlos
    "Pitch 1 is squeezed between Blue on one side, Red on 'tother; but betweenthere i..." 19/Nov

    The Toix Ridge
    "now and then dubious relais and sometimes long distances between bolts (on the e..." 16/Nov

    Jan
    "Pleasant and quite sustained. It can be done on a 60m rope if you angle your abs..." 21/Oct

    Lofi
    "Communication is impossible after the first pitch. If you are not used to moves ..." 22/Aug

    Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour
    "Last week I rebolted the complete route with stainless bolts, so the climb is pr..." 07/May

    Anna Maria la Pirata con Cojones
    "This is a 7c. It has never been 7c+. I am the first ascender and Paul Thorburn..." 29/Mar

    Cilber
    "Changed from 5+ * to 5+ **, 0% of 2 votes for **" 06/Mar

    Coming back to Life
    "I agree with this being upgraded to 6c, it's hard and scary. I had a brown trous..." 06/Mar

    Painted Wall
    "Gets harder and harder with height. Brilliant positions." 01/Feb

    Vía Missing Link
    "It isn't clear where to traverse. Down at the water (like the line in the topo) ..." 11/Jan

    Monkey Wall
    "Good route but 2 stars, not 3. There are bolts in the hueco filled "chimne..." 21/Nov

    Oma Sus
    "There's now another route called "Opa Mus" so take care at the start! ..." 12/Nov

    The Whole of Creation
    "There's a new route on the arete just left of this one. Good fun, a couple of se..." 06/Oct

    Enérgico
    "This is a great route! Easily 2 stars, maybe 3. It looks a lot tougher from belo..." 15/Aug

    Espolón Limaban
    "Upper pitch is a stunning pitch and bang on the grade as well I'd say." 26/Apr top50

    Lara
    "Bold for a 4+. Met the setter who was on the abseil down an adjacent route. Wort..." 07/Feb top50

    Espolón Limaban
    "A 3* route. The top pitch is a stunner." 02/Oct top50

    Candelabra del Sol
    "This has been rebolted and is an amazing route. Take around 20 clips The bolts o..." 08/Aug

    Cicky Bugger
    "nice fingery route one of the best about" 04/Apr

    La roja seis
    "Moving right - it is not escape, but the natural line. Avoiding the good holds i..." 25/Mar

    Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour
    "Rusty as before :-) Take some gear - especially if you don't use ENP!" 25/Mar

    La roja seis
    "Very well bolted. Very thin, especially between the 2nd and 4th bolts. You can..." 01/Mar

    Presto
    "yeah spaced bolts at the last 2 moves, needs care... but maybe I went in the wro..." 19/Feb

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