Cioch Bay

Adjacent Areas
< North Bay  |  Great Slab >

Trad
Afternoon sun
12 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The main feature of the bay is the narrow tower of the Cioch leaning against its left side and, just left again, the steep classic jamming crack of Dexterity. The right wall has some pleasant offerings although the exits all need a careful approach; the top here is invariably loose.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
March Hare
14m. The square-cut arete is climbed on its left-hand side and becomes harrowing towards the top. Staying on the arete is best,...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
2
April Arete
14m. The upper arete is gained from the right. Pleasant and poorly protected, it features a big square chipped hold. The Direct...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 4c
3
Dextrous Hare
14m. A tenuous crack and tiny groove are approached on small flat edges and entered by a reckless layback. The crack right of...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E3 5c
4
Dexterity
20m. Great jamming up the crack cleaving the wall. Where it thins, either pull out left, or better and pumpier, go direct,...
17 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
HVS 5b
5
Cioch Corner
26m. Climb the deep, greasy groove to the tip of the Cioch, and a possible belay. Finish up the exposed arete above.
4 user comments
 S 4a
6
Mayday
22m. Climb the balancy arete of the Cioch - hard to start - to its tip, and a finish up the exposed arete of Cioch Corner.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5a
7
Supra Direct
22m. The once-pegged crack up the front of the Cioch proves tricky at the bulge - no escaping out right. From its tip, easy...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5b
8
Close Shave
24m. Climb cracks to the right of the Cioch, trending left to reach the ledge and a belay. Finish up the deep groove at the...
1 user comment
 
Loose
S 4a
9
Boomerang
24m. Left of the main groove follow the line of cracks and corners left then right to a ledge. Escape rightwards with care.
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
S 4a
10
Only Just
18m. Start just right of a wide crack and climb the groove to a ledge. Head up the delicate and poorly protected shallow groove...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
11
Eartha
20m. Follow Only Just to the ledge then step right and climb the pleasant flake-crack up the slabby face.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS 4a
12
F.A.T.D
14m. The unremarkable tottering right arete of the wall.
 
Loose
HS 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For MILLSTONE

    Gimcrack
    "5a and hard VS if you follow the jamming crack without a deviation - might be 4c..." 13/Jun

    Coventry Street
    "I wonder if the votes for grading relate just to the bottom bit. The lead crux i..." 30/Mar

    Soho Sally
    "Really good varied climbing - but suffers a bit from lack of traffic - so get on..." 02/Sep

    Whitehall
    "Did this today - well done to whoever cleaned it up - it must have been a messy ..." 17/Aug

    Blind Bat
    "Old peg is actually OK and can be backed up with a friend 1 ish. Good crimping" 04/May

    Regent Street
    "I found the top crack hardest, both feet slipped but bomb proof finger locks and..." 15/Dec top50

    Piccadilly Circus
    "Good varied route when done as a big pitch. The hard section is short lived with..." 26/Oct

    Brimstone
    "E2 for me, but if you're happy hanging out on steep stuff with average holds it ..." 02/Oct

    Dextrous Hare
    "great route, good rp's protect" 15/Jul

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