Cioch Bay

Adjacent Areas
< North Bay  |  Great Slab >

Trad
No sun
0 mins
Up and Down
Sheltered

The main feature of the bay is the narrow tower of the Cioch leaning against its left side and, just left again, the steep classic jamming crack of Dexterity. The right wall has some pleasant offerings although the exits all need a careful approach; the top here is invariably loose.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
February Fox
The bold and reachy wall left of the arete.
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
2
March Hare
The square-cut arete is climbed on its left side and becomes harrowing towards the top. Staying with the arete is best though...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
E2 5b
3
April Arete
The upper arete is gained from the right. Pleasant though poorly protected, and featuring a huge chipped hold. The direct start...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 4c
4
Dextrous Hare
The tenuous crack and tiny groove are approached on small flat edges and entered by a bold layback. The crack right of the...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
E3 5c
5
Dexterity
Pumpy climbing up the crack cleaving the wall. Where it thins, go direct, runners and holds keep appearing. Escaping out left...
18 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
E1 5b
6
Cioch Corner
Climb the deep, greasy groove to the tip of the Cioch, and a possible belay. Finish up the exposed arete above.
4 user comments
 S 4a
7
Mayday
Up the balancy arete of the Cioch (hard to start) to its tip, then finish up the exposed arete of Cioch Corner.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5a
8
Supra Direct
The thin peg-scarred crack splitting the front of the Cioch proves tricky at the bulge. No escaping out right!
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
9
The Hacker
The short curving crack just to the right is a slight variation on the previous climb that soon eases. Finish up the exposed...
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
10
Close Shave
Climb cracks right of the Cioch, trending left to reach the ledge and a belay. Finish up the deep groove at the back of the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
S 4a
11
Boomerang
Left of the main groove, follow the line of cracks and corners left then right to a ledge. Escape rightwards with great care.
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
S 4a
12
Brumal
A direct line with some pleasant moves and a steep finale.
 
Loose
VS 4c
13
Eartha
Start just right of a wide crack and climb the groove to a ledge. Move right and climb the pleasant flake-crack up the slabby...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS 4a
14
Only Just
Start up Eartha then head up the delicate and poorly-protected scoop to tricky final moves. Low in the grade when 100% dry.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
E2 5b
15
F.A.T.D.
The right arete of the wall past a couple of heathery ledges.
 
1 Stars
Loose
HS 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For MILLSTONE

    Seventies Style Wall
    "Changed from f6A 6a to f6B+ *, no votes" 23/Mar

    Gimcrack
    "5a and hard VS if you follow the jamming crack without a deviation - might be 4c..." 13/Jun

    Coventry Street
    "I wonder if the votes for grading relate just to the bottom bit. The lead crux i..." 30/Mar

    Soho Sally
    "Really good varied climbing - but suffers a bit from lack of traffic - so get on..." 02/Sep

    Whitehall
    "Did this today - well done to whoever cleaned it up - it must have been a messy ..." 17/Aug

    Blind Bat
    "Old peg is actually OK and can be backed up with a friend 1 ish. Good crimping" 04/May

    Regent Street
    "I found the top crack hardest, both feet slipped but bomb proof finger locks and..." 15/Dec top50

    Piccadilly Circus
    "Good varied route when done as a big pitch. The hard section is short lived with..." 26/Oct

    Brimstone
    "E2 for me, but if you're happy hanging out on steep stuff with average holds it ..." 02/Oct

    Dextrous Hare
    "great route, good rp's protect" 15/Jul

    Lotto Direct
    "After the Lotto start (E1 5c), this is pretty easy at 5b max, but run out up the..." 10/Jul

    Search for comments