Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
12 minsRestricted Access
Occasional restriction due to nesting birds
An imposing tall bay with the shallow cave of Lyon’s Corner House and Twikker in its left wall. The area is more sheltered than other spots on the crag but can be green, especially early in the year. Guidebook page 242.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Windrete 14m. The impressive breezy arete has low gear (small wires) and mostly good holds. Bold and airy with some suspect rock. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Fluttery Loose | E2 5b |
2 |
Breeze Mugger 14m. Climb to a break (gear) then make hard moves up before moving left to a finish on the arete of Windrete. 1 user comment | Reachy Technical Fluttery Loose | E5 6b |
3 |
Meeze Brugger 14m. Climb the wall first left then right. The hard bit is standing on the only good hold on the lower wall. Finish up suspect... | 1 Stars Crimpy Fluttery Loose | E5 6b |
4 |
Eros 14m. Low in the grade, the steep crack in the left wall of the bay has good holds and runners though some of the rock is a bit... 6 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy Loose | E1 5b |
5 |
Lyon's Corner House Direct 28m. An excellent and well protected pitch up the long arete, moving right at half-height. The loss of a hold has made the... 13 user comments | 2 Stars | HVS 5a |
6 |
Lyon's Corner House 30m. A long devious trip up the left edge of the bay that can be split at a belay in the cave but is usually done in one... 7 user comments | 3 Stars | HVS 5a |
7 |
Erb 28m. From the cave, climb left then right to pass the central overlap awkwardly by finger jamming, laybacking and a tough... 8 user comments | 2 Stars Crimpy | E2 5c |
8 |
Twikker 28m. The right-hand side of the cave leads to the lip of the roof which is passed by powerful moves (stepping in from the ledge... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | E3 5c |
9 |
Lubric 28m. From the cave trend right to the foot of the smooth corner. This gives good climbing when it isn't choked with grass! | 1 Stars Technical | HVS 5b |
10 |
Pinstone Street 28m. The crack right of the corner turns hard (and a bit loose) at the roof. Once past the bulges continue more easily,... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Strong Loose | E2 5c |
11 |
Diamond Groove 28m. Start at a grass ledge under the centre of the wall and climb to higher ledge. Move left to a groove which leads to a... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | HVS 5b |
12 |
Flapjack 20m. The shallow groove in the left-hand side of the protruding buttress is pleasant. Finish up the prominent crack above. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4b |
13 |
Neatfeet 20m. Climb the short-lived but bold arete to join the upper section of the previous climb. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Fluttery | HVS 5a |
14 |
SSS 20m. The stepped groove on the right-hand side of the projecting buttress leads to an exit by the finish of Flapjack. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
15 |
Winter's Grip 20m. The square-cut arete is a gripper at any time of the year. A couple of hand-placed blade pegs provide reasonable... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Fluttery | E6 6b |
16 |
Keelhaul 16m. Hard for the grade. The hanging flake on the left wall of the grassy groove is approached up a short corner and gives... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Loose | VS 4c |
17 |
Crusty Corner 16m. The long groove is pleasant enough though a bit grassy. | Loose | S 4a |
18 |
Quiddity 16m. An impressive arete pitch. Fortunately there are more holds and runners than appearances suggest, though it is still bold! 5 user comments | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
19 |
Billingsgate 20m. The scoop gives fine technical climbing (past lots of rather tired small-wire slots) to a leftwards exit. Originally... 9 user comments | 2 Stars | E1 5b |
