Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
20 minsWindy
The main wall is in a lovely sunny situation looking out over the orange and almond groves that surround Castalla. The rock is generally just less than vertical; the routes tend to be fingery and sustained. Guidebook page 142.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Espolón Aureli 1) 4+, 20m. 2) 5, 20m. The left edge of the cliff. | 2 Stars | 5 |
2 |
Xino xano Climb the lower slab then the bulges on better holds, left then right. The right-hand variation start is 6c and fingery. 3 user comments | 1 Stars | 6b |
3 |
Pata chula Excellent, now called Poc Tresllat in the local guide. Climb a grey tufa streak and thin layback crack then move left. Steeper... 1 user comment | 2 Stars | 5+ |
4 |
El rey del sisa Climb the rounded rib (hard) then go rightwards. | 1 Stars | 6a+ |
5 |
Corbella Start in an orange scoop and climb up this on pockets and past shrubbery onto a steep bubbly wall. 1 user comment | 6b | |
6 |
Pa en cubitos Climb out of the right side of the scoop and trend slightly rightwards to a lower-off at the level of some ledges. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 6a+ |
7 |
Gorbachov Follow small sharp holds and then easier jug-pulling as things steepen to a lower-off at the change in angle. 3 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | 6a |
8 |
Tachar Climb to and straight up the brown streak to the hole at its apex. Sharp, sustained and hard for the grade. | 1 Stars Crimpy | 6b+ |
9 |
Desconeguda A good, long route on excellent rock, the easiest hereabouts. The start is polished, after which things are fine. Climb... 7 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 5 |
10 |
Sexta An excellent pitch. Climb flakes and cracks up a grey streak then past a white scar to a lower-off above a niche. 3 user comments | 2 Stars Crimpy | 6a |
11 |
Sexta Extension Climb Sexta, then traverse a long way up and right to the roof. Pull over to finish. This is around 40m so take care if... | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6a+ |
12 |
Paris Texas Start at the blue painted name and climb the white rib, passing a thread and then some ledges, to a lower-off in a bay. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Crimpy | 6a+ |
13 |
Canal The left side of the scoop with a tricky start and finish. 6 user comments | 2 Stars Crimpy | 6a |
14 |
Servina Excellent climbing up the rounded scoop. The bulge at the start is tricky, as is the finish. There is a pointless lower-off in... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Crimpy | 6b+ |
15 |
Directa Another fine climb from the scratched name climb the right rib of the scoops to a small ledge. Lower-off here or, better, an... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Crimpy | 6b |
16 |
Dit Laser Start at a crack that rises diagonally to the right. Climb the broad front of the buttress to chains below the overlap. 5 user comments | 2 Stars | 6a+ |
17 |
Lengua Free A good lower section through the diagonal overlap leads and up the sustained face to final desperate moves to the lower-off.... | Crimpy | 6b+ |
18 |
La Perla del Caribe Climb to an overlap then pull through this and on up the hard grey face to an easier finish. 3 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6c |
19 |
Chunay-Free Start left of the tree and climb steepening rock into a scoop. The leftward exit from this proves to be the crux. | 1 Stars Technical | 7a |
20 |
En busca del Poset Behind the right edge of the tree, an easy start leads to sustained climbing trending leftwards up the tan-coloured wall. | 1 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 7b |
21 |
No es tan guay Climb past the left edge of the prominent overlap then head up the steep sharp wall to a lower-off by a tree in a bay. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a+ |
22 |
Gemma Boom Start behind the tree and climb the left-hand side of the pale grey streak by a fiercely sharp and sustained pitch. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a |
23 |
Central This neat route follows the big flake and right-slanting overlap to a mid-height lower-off. The groove is mostly juggy, but... 3 user comments | 2 Stars | 5+ |
24 |
Chica de moda 1) 6a+, 2) 6b+. Climb right of the flake crack, then pull through the centre of the overlap to a tiny stance. A fine long pitch... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical | 6b+ |
25 |
Ruda 1) 6b, 2) 6b+. The centre of the slab is sustained and crimpy with crucial moves at half height to a poor stance just below a... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 6b+ |
26 |
La llágrima (P1) A good and popular pitch. Steep moves lead to a hole, and leaving this is tricky and sustained to a stance. From here there are... | 3 Stars Technical | 6a |
27 |
La llágrima Pull left through the bulge and into the large hole of the teardrop. Exit from this (crux) and head for the top. 4 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | 6b |
28 |
La lágrima derecha A superb right-hand finish along the undercut flakes with some well-positioned moves into the scoop. 2 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a |
29 |
La Pelma Tackle the left-hand line keeping left of the vegetated rock then move slightly right to the belay. 3 user comments | 1 Stars | 5+ |
30 |
Sense por From the bay, follow a pleasant flake up leftwards. 4 user comments | 1 Stars | 5 |
31 |
Fama de fuga (P1) The easy slab to a stance. | 4 | |
32 |
Fama de fuga Above the stance the sustained wall leads to the bulge and a pleasant finishing scoop. | 1 Stars Pumpy | 7a |
33 |
Super Ali (P1) The unremarkable grassy slab. | 4 | |
34 |
Super Ali Above lurks a hard finish via the centre of the wall. | 1 Stars Technical | 6c |
35 |
Tedy Man (P1) | 4 | |
36 |
Tedy Man A reach-dependent alternative finish to Super Ali. | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | 7a |
37 |
Xispa Not shown on the topo. | 1 Stars | 4 |