Rockfax | Databases | Sax > Peñas del Rey

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The main climbing at Sax is centred on a fine tall tower known as the Peñas del Rey. The routes here are well bolted, but have a mountain-crag feel about them with belays and walk-down descents. Many of the routes converge at the top of the pinnacle and following an independent line on the upper sections is often a bit tricky, but this is usually above all the difficulties. The central gully and smaller tower offer steeper and mainly harder routes. Guidebook page 108.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Alnara Previously known as G.E.F.C. and graded 5+, 4.1) 6a+, 25m. The left-hand bolted line on the face past holes and through a...	1 Stars	6a+
2	Doce metros por hora 1) 5, 20m. The rugged slab gives a good pitch to bolts below the upper wall. Lower off or throw yourself at...2) 6b, 35m....	1 Stars	6b
3	Blanes 1) 4+, 20m. A pleasant classic. Climb the rounded rib to the overlap. Cross this, then trend right to a small stance.2) 4+,... 1 user comment	3 Stars	4+
4	La última pupilla 1) 6b, 20m. An eliminate line up the rib.2) 6c, 35m. Move left from the belay and then climb the wall right of the corner.	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	6c
5	Caballo Loco 1) 6a+, 20m. The scoopy groove is tricky to start and again at the steepening. Belay on a small ledge.2) 6c, 35m. The...	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	6c
6	Taberna de Buda 1) 6a+, 22m. The steep slab breaking right out of Caballo Loco gives a sustained piece of climbing.2) 5, 35m. Climb the...	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	6a+
7	Anduriña 1) 6a, 25m. Follow the steep technical slab (prominent old bolt marks) to a belay left of the cave. An excellent pitch often... 1 user comment	2 Stars Crimpy	6a
8	Kabronkon A fine sustained pitch up the crinkly wall - low in the grade. Start at the plaque and balance up the wall to crucial moves at... 1 user comment	2 Stars Crimpy	6b
9	Pedra del Sol 1) 6b, 22m. Climb Kabronkon and continue past the lower-off to a belay a little higher.2) 6b, 38m. Climb to the roof and...	2 Stars Pumpy	6b
10	Liga Humana 1) 6a+, 30m. Follow the fine slab, via a small roof, to a cave.2) 6a, 35m. Pull steeply onto the pillar on the right and...	2 Stars Technical	6a+
11	Tupungato Top 50 1) 5, 30m. Climb into the reddish groove at 16m then follow the delightful slab to a comfortable belay in the cave.2) 5+,... 5 user comments	3 Stars	5+
12	Muerte Sabrosa Make a hard start to reach and climb the orange shield beneath the cave. Lower off from the caves.	2 Stars Crimpy	6b
13	Amor Brujo 1) 6a+, 30m. Take the right-hand side of the orange patch steeply to a white pillar and onto stance in the cave. A fine... 1 user comment	3 Stars Strong Pumpy	6a+
14	Super Directa 1) 6a, 30m. Climb a 6m high detached block and the wall (high first bolt), into a hanging groove (threads). Move out right and... 3 user comments	3 Stars Pumpy	6a
15	Directísima 1) 6a, 25m. Start by a smaller pillar and pull through the left side of a small shattered overhang. Climb past a big hole and...	2 Stars	6a
16	La Moixeranga 1) 6a, 25m. A direct line through the overlap and up into the large niche. Continue up the sustained rib to a small...	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	6b
17	Central A wandering trip up the right edge of the face with a lot of good climbing and some route finding problems.1) 5+, 30m....	2 Stars	5+
18	Límites de la Realidad Protected by good bolts but a little run-out in places.1) 6a, 28m. From the left-hand of a pair of blocks, climb up...	2 Stars Fluttery	6a
19	Diedro Dinamita The left-facing corner groove is effectively a direct start to Central. It needs a collection of wires. Abseil from the stance.	1 Stars	6a
20	Polvos mágicos 1) 6a, 28m. A bit run-out at the bottom. Start at a 'ban-the-bomb' sign. Climb through an alcove and up the wall then trend... 1 user comment	3 Stars Pumpy	6a
21	Esto es Hollywood A steep single pitch up the left-hand wall of the recess.	1 Stars Pumpy	6b
22	Navarro 1 An expedition up the front of the leaning block and wall above.1) 5+, 10m. Scramble up onto the top of the pinnacle...	1 Stars	6a
23	Navarro 1 Variante A variation to the last pitch, up the blunt rib on the right.	1 Stars	6b
24	Chimenea Groen 70 The huge chimney at the back left-hand corner of the gully. Fun if you like that sort of thing. There is a stance at...	1 Stars Strong Graunchy	5+
25	Quirófano de la muerte The line up the left-hand side of the wall is magnificent. 1) 7a+, 24m. Start behind the block. 2) 7a+, 30m. More...	3 Stars Pumpy	7a+
26	Elena de Pablos The magnificent route with two superb pitches.1) 6a+, 24m. Steep and exhilarating though also shiny and fairly hard work... 2 user comments	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	7a+
27	Chinche 1) 5+, 24m. A superb first pitch at an amenable grade.2) 6b, 30m. There is one hard move just above the stance then spaced... 1 user comment	2 Stars Technical	6b
28	Espolón Luis Rico 1) 6a, 25m. Climb the chimney by the block on the right-hand side of the recess to a belay on the col.2) 6a, 30m. Climb the...	1 Stars	6a
29	Glóbulos rojos The back of the tower.		6c
30	Retri The next line with spaced bolts.	Fluttery	6b
31	QE2 Start up Retri then break right.		6a
32	Techo A steep direct start to Con cuarto basta.	Technical Strong	7b
33	Con cuarto basta The right wall of the rift, join and finish up Carrasco.		6a+
34	Carrasco A good route up the front left-hand side of the pillar, the best equipped and easiest way up the tower. It can be split at the... 1 user comment	2 Stars	5
35	Andrés A long pitch weaving up the front of the tower.	1 Stars Loose	5+
36	Elisa-Beltrán A good route up the front arete and groove above. It can be split at a mid-height belay. Descend off the back.	2 Stars	4

Peñas del Rey

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