Peñas del Rey

Adjacent Areas
< Sector Cumbre  |  Pinnacle and North >

Sport
Morning sun
Uphill
10 mins

The main climbing at Sax is centred on a fine tall tower known as the Peņas del Rey. The routes here are well bolted, but have a mountain-crag feel about them with belays and walk-down descents. Many of the routes converge at the top of the pinnacle and following an independent line on the upper sections is often a bit tricky, but this is usually above all the difficulties. The central gully and smaller tower offer steeper and mainly harder routes. Guidebook page 108.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Alnara
Previously known as G.E.F.C. and graded 5+, 4.1) 6a+, 25m. The left-hand bolted line on the face past holes and through a...
 
1 Stars
6a+
2
Doce metros por hora
1) 5, 20m. The rugged slab gives a good pitch to bolts below the upper wall. Lower off or throw yourself at...2) 6b, 35m....
 
1 Stars
6b
3
Blanes
1) 4+, 20m. A pleasant classic. Climb the rounded rib to the overlap. Cross this, then trend right to a small stance.2) 4+,...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
4+
4
La última pupilla
1) 6b, 20m. An eliminate line up the rib.2) 6c, 35m. Move left from the belay and then climb the wall right of the corner.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
5
Caballo Loco
1) 6a+, 20m. The scoopy groove is tricky to start and again at the steepening. Belay on a small ledge.2) 6c, 35m. The...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
6
Taberna de Buda
1) 6a+, 22m. The steep slab breaking right out of Caballo Loco gives a sustained piece of climbing.2) 5, 35m. Climb the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6a+
7
Anduriña
1) 6a, 25m. Follow the steep technical slab (prominent old bolt marks) to a belay left of the cave. An excellent pitch often...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6a
8
Kabronkon
A fine sustained pitch up the crinkly wall - low in the grade. Start at the plaque and balance up the wall to crucial moves at...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6b
9
Pedra del Sol
1) 6b, 22m. Climb Kabronkon and continue past the lower-off to a belay a little higher.2) 6b, 38m. Climb to the roof and...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
10
Liga Humana
1) 6a+, 30m. Follow the fine slab, via a small roof, to a cave.2) 6a, 35m. Pull steeply onto the pillar on the right and...
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
11
Tupungato Top 50
1) 5, 30m. Climb into the reddish groove at 16m then follow the delightful slab to a comfortable belay in the cave.2) 5+,...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
5+
12
Muerte Sabrosa
Make a hard start to reach and climb the orange shield beneath the cave. Lower off from the caves.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6b
13
Amor Brujo
1) 6a+, 30m. Take the right-hand side of the orange patch steeply to a white pillar and onto stance in the cave. A fine...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
6a+
14
Super Directa
1) 6a, 30m. Climb a 6m high detached block and the wall (high first bolt), into a hanging groove (threads). Move out right and...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a
15
Directísima
1) 6a, 25m. Start by a smaller pillar and pull through the left side of a small shattered overhang. Climb past a big hole and...
 
2 Stars
6a
16
La Moixeranga
1) 6a, 25m. A direct line through the overlap and up into the large niche. Continue up the sustained rib to a small...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b
17
Central
A wandering trip up the right edge of the face with a lot of good climbing and some route finding problems.1) 5+, 30m....
 
2 Stars
5+
18
Límites de la Realidad
Protected by good bolts but a little run-out in places.1) 6a, 28m. From the left-hand of a pair of blocks, climb up...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
6a
19
Diedro Dinamita
The left-facing corner groove is effectively a direct start to Central. It needs a collection of wires. Abseil from the stance.
 
1 Stars
6a
20
Polvos mágicos
1) 6a, 28m. A bit run-out at the bottom. Start at a 'ban-the-bomb' sign. Climb through an alcove and up the wall then trend...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a
21
Esto es Hollywood
A steep single pitch up the left-hand wall of the recess.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b
22
Navarro 1
An expedition up the front of the leaning block and wall above.1) 5+, 10m. Scramble up onto the top of the pinnacle...
 
1 Stars
6a
23
Navarro 1 Variante
A variation to the last pitch, up the blunt rib on the right.
 
1 Stars
6b
24
Chimenea Groen 70
The huge chimney at the back left-hand corner of the gully. Fun if you like that sort of thing. There is a stance at...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
5+
25
Quirófano de la muerte
The line up the left-hand side of the wall is magnificent. 1) 7a+, 24m. Start behind the block. 2) 7a+, 30m. More...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
26
Elena de Pablos
The magnificent route with two superb pitches.1) 6a+, 24m. Steep and exhilarating though also shiny and fairly hard work...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
27
Chinche
1) 5+, 24m. A superb first pitch at an amenable grade.2) 6b, 30m. There is one hard move just above the stance then spaced...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
28
Espolón Luis Rico
1) 6a, 25m. Climb the chimney by the block on the right-hand side of the recess to a belay on the col.2) 6a, 30m. Climb the...
 
1 Stars
6a
29
Glóbulos rojos
The back of the tower.
 6c
30
Retri
The next line with spaced bolts.
 
Fluttery
6b
31
QE2
Start up Retri then break right.
 6a
32
Techo
A steep direct start to Con cuarto basta.
 
Technical
Strong
7b
33
Con cuarto basta
The right wall of the rift, join and finish up Carrasco.
 6a+
34
Carrasco
A good route up the front left-hand side of the pillar, the best equipped and easiest way up the tower. It can be split at the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
5
35
Andrés
A long pitch weaving up the front of the tower.
 
1 Stars
Loose
5+
36
Elisa-Beltrán
A good route up the front arete and groove above. It can be split at a mid-height belay. Descend off the back.
 
2 Stars
4
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  • Latest Comments

    For SAX

    Polvos mágicos
    "Beautiful but quite hard as for 6a - especially first pitch." 25/Mar

    Tupungato
    "Found a small snakeskin (about 12") in a jug on my way up the first pitch! ..." 27/Oct top50

    Chinche
    "Only did the first pitch but it is really good. Holes everywhere - would be much..." 08/Jan

    Tupungato
    "Wire not really needed on top pitch (there is a good bolt on right once you pull..." 04/Dec top50

    Blanes
    "Nice bottom pitch, the top pitch is hard to follow as it crosses so many other r..." 22/Apr

    Tupungato
    "The intermediate belay is marked in the wrong place on the photo-topo. Should be..." 15/Apr top50

    Tupungato
    "I wasn't quite sure where the guidebook suggested that a nut was used, seemed we..." 08/Apr top50

    Carrasco
    "It is nice and easy climg, which is in matter of fact 38m long(ground to top)." 31/Mar

    Anduriña
    "A superb first pitch, almost worth 3 stars." 23/Mar

    Super Directa
    "Difficult to follow the line in the start, but the climb is worthwile.A high 1st..." 19/Mar

    Super Directa
    "Not easy to see the line of the first pitch from below could really do with a be..." 21/Jan

    Kabronkon
    "excellent and sustained" 08/Jan

    Elena de Pablos
    "first pitch is hard work for a 6a+ leader - shiny rock and steeeeep." 11/Apr

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