Peña Roja Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Morning sun
3 mins
Level
Sheltered

The fine right-hand wall is steep and has plenty of superb long sustained technical pitches starting at 6b and heading upwards. Guidebook page 348.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Problem zquierda
The line on the far left starting up a shrubby ramp is pretty poor.
1 user comment
 
Loose
5c
2
Como un loco
The balancy left side of the slab via a tricky bulge low down.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6a
3
Sansón sin pilila
The centre of the slab via a vague flake and maybe a quick dyno. After half-height trend right up easier ground. Polished.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6a
4
Sansón y dalila
The right-hand line climbs the face left of a left-facing flake, and is quite hard if you do it all direct. Tricky first clip.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a
5
La desarrugada
Climb the right edge of the slab and cross the bulge rightwards on sharp holds.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
6
Agárrate como puedas
A direct start through the bulges usually via a dyno. It can be done statically, but not by many.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
7a
7
Puta hila
The blunt rib, starting from a small cave is particularly sharp.
 
Technical
Crimpy
6c+
8
Toro salvaje
Start behind a big tree and climb the red scoop.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
9
Hall 9000
Direct through the niche on small painful holds.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c+
10
El pasa de la dende
The thuggy crack and butch roof (tricky clip on the lip) lead to scrappier climbing above. Manages to feel like a HVS 5b.
3 user comments
 
Strong
Pumpy
6a
11
De la Misma, a Mitad
The short leaning line with a glued-on hold - strenny.
 6c
12
Chupito de Orujo
Struggle up the V-shaped groove.
 
Technical
6a
13
Through the Magic Window
The long corner past a tricky bulge moving right at the top.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
5c
14
Through the Magic Door
The wall right of the corner leads to a roof and a nice finish up the grey slab. Popular, despite the loose patch.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
6a
15
Soca una igualita
Climb the fingery grey wall, then, when the angle eases, trend left to finish at the same lower-off as Through the Magic Door.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
16
Techno manía
The wall behind the tree has a fingery start and a tricky finish over the roof. It is much easier - and a bit pointless - to go...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
17
Tarzan de las monodedos
Climb directly up the grey wall - hard and sustained.
 
Pumpy
7b
18
La bella
The best route on the side wall. Reach the large pocket and continue to the small overlap - crux. Climb rightwards to the...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
7b
19
La bestia
Good climbing, but too close to the corner for comfort.
 
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
20
Caprichosa
The corner gives a sustained bridging exercise. Great climbing.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
21
Sulacco
Climb the grey streak just right of the corner keeping left of a tall orange perched flake. Crimpy and sustained with great...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a+
22
Fisura Yablonski
The centre of the red wall with a tricky bulge (and clip) to start then the easier flake to a final depressingly desperate...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
23
Caballo loco
The crinkly red wall starting up a left-facing groove. A strenuous start and technical mid-section lead to a good finish.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
24
Muévete un huracán
The arete left of the groove although it involves some of the groove low down. A hard third clip. Trend left to finish.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
25
Siempre en alguna parte
The wall right of the corner gives good climbing which is fine if you avoid leftward temptations.
 
2 Stars
6c
26
Lliberpool Top 50
Popular and polished - sustained but never desperate. Start below a short tufa and climb the steep wall moving right to jugs in...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
27
Le Baton
A hard move at half-height, either dyno for a blob or climb to the left of it. The second option is easier but less satisfying.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
28
El desafio
The bulging arete above a hole is desperate, and very steep.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
29
Pan y circo
Awkward, technical, sustained and a bit of an eliminate.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
30
Sin tarjeta de presentación
Superb climbing with two hard sections and a great rest in the middle. Given 7a on the rock but it really is only low 6c+.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
6c+
31
Maragda
A hard route over the narrow roof.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
32
Roja techo
The wall and roof on tiny holds then the blunt arete.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
33
Rockadictos
Sustained with a hard crux and some shiny footholds. 6c+ on the rock but harder than Sin tarjeta.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
34
La Llibertine
Great climbing on huge holds. Originally a slightly tottery 6b, but it has cleaned up nicely.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
6a+
35
New Groove
The narrow groove to overhangs above.
 
3 Stars
7a+
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  • Latest Comments

    For PEÑA ROJA

    Sansón sin pilila
    "The first bolt's quite high and tricky to get to. Quite polished indeed." 20/Oct

    La Llibertine
    "A really good long route, jugs all the way! Take plenty of quickdraws..." 16/Mar

    Sin tarjeta de presentación
    "Did this for the third time in 20 years and yet again confirmed it is no harder ..." 14/Oct

    Pan y circo
    "Seemed very eliminate - if you use some holds with the 7a route to the right the..." 01/Mar

    Sulacco
    "The corner has been bolted at 6b, supposed to be very good." 10/Jan

    Caballo loco
    "I'm wondering whether there has been a loss of a hold in the bulge. It felt much..." 04/Jan

    Techno manía
    "7a+ con el escaqueo del techo por la izquierda?" 08/Dec

    La bella
    "this is 7b without a doubt" 22/Oct

    Lliberpool
    "es uno de los 6b+ mas sostenido que hai. inizio de fuerza y despues de vertical ..." 22/Mar top50

    Lliberpool
    "Brilliant! Compared to many other routes in the area it's for sure 6b+. Especial..." 25/Sep top50

    Muévete un huracán
    "Very good and substantial route with hard moves low down and no mercy in the mid..." 07/May

    Lliberpool
    "This really is a great, sustained but constantly surprising pitch. It thought it..." 04/Feb top50

    Sulacco
    "i cant see how this is 'mild at the grade'; its thin and not obvious but still h..." 20/Dec

    Rockadictos
    "very nice route" 09/Jul

    La bella
    "The best route on the crag perhaps. A fantastic pocketed line up the steep wall ..." 13/Jan

    Maragda
    "they climb in the top to the right (7a) without the roof." 08/Jan

    Rockadictos
    "local grade 6c+" 31/Mar

    Sansón y dalila
    "Harder than route 2 with a tricky 1st clip, also a couple of reachy moves for go..." 04/Mar

    Muévete un huracán
    "There are a one or two additional bolts - is very well bolted now" 07/Jan

    Lliberpool
    "The best 6b I have ever done..!! However, it feels more like 6b+ pumpy as hell...." 04/Jan top50

    Through the Magic Door
    "A very good route, the loose bit really isn't too bad, and shouldn't put people ..." 30/Nov

    Through the Magic Door
    "great route, past a worrying loose bit and very thin above , just when you think..." 01/Nov

    La bella
    "This route is worth 7b of anybody's money.(Actually, ditto Techno Mania)." 11/Apr

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