Titania Area

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
40 mins

The left-hand side of the crag has a series of low walls with a collection of short climbs. Although none of these are of outstanding quality they are usually deserted and there are several easier climbs, a good spot for a bit of soloing or learning the ropes maybe? Guidebook page 74.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Squawk
8m. The arete leads to a stretch for the break and tricky mantel.
 
Reachy
HVS 5b
2
Sick as a Parrot
8m. Start by a big pocket at ground level and climb straight up the wall before heading right to a precarious exit.
 HVS 5a
3
Sick Bay
12m. From just left of a groove shuffle leftwards on solid jams to a rounded exit on the far left, above the overhangs.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
HS 4b
4
Handy Wall Hole
8m. Climb the easy groove to a ledge and then the wall above and right passing the hand pocket.
 S 4a
5
Thunderbirds
8m. From the centre of the wall climb onto a ledge, through a bulge and diagonally left across the final wall.
 S 4a
6
Woodentops
8m. The left-hand crack to ledges, move left to another crack.
 S 4a
7
Stingray
8m. The mild hand jamming crack just left of the arete leads steeply to ledges. Finish around to the right.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
8
Windblasted
8m. The short wall 4m left of the chimney is climbed direct.
 D
9
Windblown
8m. Head directly up the juggy wall 3m left of the chimney.
 
1 Stars
VD
10
Domusnovas
8m. Enter the tricky hanging groove.
 
Fluttery
E2 5c
11
Jonah
8m. The cleft, finish up the inside for the full Jonah experience!
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
D
12
Tight 'uns
10m. Climb the slab just right of the chimney to a ledge. A short awkward wall (loose block) leads to the easier wall.
1 user comment
 
Loose
VS 5a
13
Titanium
10m. The technical centre of the slab from a gravel patch, and then the bulging wall above keeping left of the blunt central...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
VS 5a
14
Titanic
10m. Climb past a wide pocket in the right-hand side of the slab and then up a short slanting crack.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
15
Titania
10m. Climb the left arete of the slab and the leaning wall on spaced and hidden jugs. Graded a stiff VDiff for years!
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
16
Iltis
10m. Climb the steepening right side of the arete to a tricky landing onto a shelf using a huge hidden 'bucket'.
3 user comments
 
Reachy
HS 4b
17
Outflanked
10m. Climb the leaning wall just left of the corner to a pocket and a sloping ledge. Take the tower above by spooky climbing,...
 HVS 5b
18
Outfoxed
9m. Climb the front of the flake to its top then step right and climb the centre of the wall delicately to a large rocking...
 VS 4c
19
Fox's Chimney
10m. The diagonal flake and steeper corner.
 M
20
Foulstone Wall
10m. The pocketed wall above the start of the last route.
 VD
21
Finerock Rib
10m. Climb a thin rib on the left side of the slab then step left and climb the wall to a grassy ledge. Continue up the arete.
 VS 4c
22
Scrapyard Slab
6m. The centre of the slabby face of the block is pleasant.
 S 4a
23
Boneyard Buttress
10m. Climb the arete to ledges then pass the roof on the left.
 VD
  • Latest Comments

    For DOVESTONE TOR

    Great Buttress
    "Great, great route - A wonderfully relentless pump, and I was mighty glad that I..." 05/Oct top50

    Mock Turtle
    "i don't know if this is the same route i did with Chris Rhoads and Anthony Addis..." 13/Apr

    Sforzando
    "Crosses overhang from jams via a small fingerhold and toe locks to reach a flake..." 23/Feb

    Stingray
    "The crack was ok (I've got big hands but my partner is normal-to-small!), but fo..." 04/Sep

    Tight 'uns
    "The loose block is no longer there - beware of the rubble left on the ledge." 14/Jun

    Iltis
    "Quite stiff for HS 4b, if you can't reach the jugs from below (neither I nor my ..." 28/Jul

    Stingray
    "Another Chris Craggs jamming crack - maybe for future guides you could take some..." 17/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "In reply to Duz Walker, I jammed and swung left to get left knee (it is grit aft..." 10/Sep

    Iltis
    "Mammoth blind reach required to good hold/bucket. I couldn't reach it until I'd ..." 03/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "Is the intention to traverse footless all the way to the sloping nose? Or do you..." 14/Jun

    Granny Smith
    "Looks horrendous- even at the BMC guide grade of E2 5c. Dont know where the good..." 04/Jun

    Excel
    "it seemed to make sense to solo this cos falling on to gear under the roof would..." 07/Sep

    Cox's Pippin
    "not really reachy, just steep with some very small holds (for an HVS) and not mu..." 07/Aug

    Thread Flintstone
    "Thought the move onto the lip seemed a bit harsh - "where are the holds&quo..." 24/Jul

    Caveman
    "This route needs a height restriction. Don't try it if you're over 5'8". ;-..." 17/Jul

    Sforzando
    "I repeated it about ten years ago. I wouldn't complain if the grade was revised ..." 20/Jun

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