Titania Area

Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
40 mins
Uphill

The left-hand side of the crag has a series of low walls with a collection of short climbs. Although none of these are of outstanding quality they are usually deserted and there are several easier climbs, a good spot for a bit of soloing or learning the ropes maybe?

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Squawk
The arete leads to a stretch for the break and tricky mantel. V4 6B from sitting.
 
Reachy
HVS 5b
2
Sick as a Parrot
Start by a big pocket at ground level and climb straight up the wall before heading right to a precarious exit.
 HVS 5a
3
Sick Bay
From just left of a groove stretch left then traverses on solid jams to a rounded exit on the far left, above the overhangs.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
VS 4b
4
Handy Wall Hole
Climb the easy groove to a ledge and then the wall on the right passing the hand pocket.
 S 4a
5
Thunderbirds
From the centre of the wall climb awkwardly to a ledge, through a bulge and diagonally left across the final wall.
 S 4a
6
Woodentops
The left-hand crack to ledges, move left to another crack.
 S 4a
7
Stingray
The mild hand-jamming crack just left of the arete leads steeply to ledges. Finish around to the right.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD 4a
8
Stingray Arete
The arete, climbed on its right-hand side, is excellent. There is some more much harder bouldering to the right.
 
1 Stars
V2 5c
9
Windblasted
The short wall 4m left of the chimney is climbed direct.
 
1 Stars
D
10
Windblown
The juggy wall 3m left of the chimney. Not much gear.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VD
11
Domusnovas
Climb up to and enter the hanging groove. A one-move-wonder.
 
Fluttery
E2 5c
12
Jonah
The wriggly, giggly cleft. Finish up the inside though the detritus for the full Jonah experience!
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
D
13
Tight 'uns
Climb the tricky slab just right of the chimney to a ledge. A short awkward wall leads to easier ground.
1 user comment
 VS 5a
14
Titanium
The technical centre of the slab from a gravel patch, and then the bulging wall above keeping left of the blunt central rib.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
15
Titanic
Climb past an wide pocket in the right-hand side of the slab and then up a short slanting crack. Some tasty moves along the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
VS 4c
16
Titania
Climb the left arete of the slab and the leaning wall on spaced and hidden jugs. Graded VDiff for years and upgraded again!
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
17
Iltis
Climb the steepening right side of the arete to a tricky landing onto a shelf using a huge hidden bucket.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
HS 4b
18
Outflanked
Climb the leaning wall just left of the corner (low crux) to a pocket and a sloping ledge. Take the tower above by worrying...
 HVS 5b
19
Outfoxed
Climb the front of the flake to its top then step right and climb the centre of the wall delicately to a large rocking block.
 VS 4c
20
Fox's Chimney
Amble up the diagonal flake and steeper corner beyond.
 M
21
Foulstone Wall
The steep pocketed wall above the start of the last route.
 VD
22
Finerock Rib
Misnamed; grassy and broken. Up a thin rib on the left side of the slab, step left and continue to a ledge. Finish up the...
 HS 4b
23
Scrapyard Slab
The centre of the slabby face of the block is pleasant and leads to a steep tricky finish through the roof
 S 4a
24
Boneyard Buttress
Climb the arete to ledges then pass the roof on the left.
 VD
  • Latest Comments

    For DOVESTONE TOR

    Great Buttress
    "Great, great route - A wonderfully relentless pump, and I was mighty glad that I..." 05/Oct top50

    Mock Turtle
    "i don't know if this is the same route i did with Chris Rhoads and Anthony Addis..." 13/Apr

    Sforzando
    "Crosses overhang from jams via a small fingerhold and toe locks to reach a flake..." 23/Feb

    Stingray
    "The crack was ok (I've got big hands but my partner is normal-to-small!), but fo..." 04/Sep

    Tight 'uns
    "The loose block is no longer there - beware of the rubble left on the ledge." 14/Jun

    Iltis
    "Quite stiff for HS 4b, if you can't reach the jugs from below (neither I nor my ..." 28/Jul

    Stingray
    "Another Chris Craggs jamming crack - maybe for future guides you could take some..." 17/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "In reply to Duz Walker, I jammed and swung left to get left knee (it is grit aft..." 10/Sep

    Iltis
    "Mammoth blind reach required to good hold/bucket. I couldn't reach it until I'd ..." 03/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "Is the intention to traverse footless all the way to the sloping nose? Or do you..." 14/Jun

    Granny Smith
    "Looks horrendous- even at the BMC guide grade of E2 5c. Dont know where the good..." 04/Jun

    Excel
    "it seemed to make sense to solo this cos falling on to gear under the roof would..." 07/Sep

    Cox's Pippin
    "not really reachy, just steep with some very small holds (for an HVS) and not mu..." 07/Aug

    Thread Flintstone
    "Thought the move onto the lip seemed a bit harsh - "where are the holds&quo..." 24/Jul

    Caveman
    "This route needs a height restriction. Don't try it if you're over 5'8". ;-..." 17/Jul

    Sforzando
    "I repeated it about ten years ago. I wouldn't complain if the grade was revised ..." 20/Jun

    Poll Taxed
    "Where does this route go? I tried it at the weekend, but couldn't work out if yo..." 12/Jun

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