Titania Area

Adjacent Areas
< Back Tor  |  The Great Buttress >

Trad
Sun and Shade
40 mins
Uphill
Windy

The left side of the crag has a collection of shorter climbs. Although none of these are outstanding, they are usually quiet and there are a few easier climbs - a good spot for a bit of soloing or learning the ropes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Squawk
The arete leads to a stretch for the break and a tricky mantel.f6B from sitting.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
HVS
2
Sick as a Parrot
Start by a big pocket at ground level and climb straight up the wall before heading right to a precarious exit.
1 user comment
 HVS
3
Sick Bay
From just left of a groove, stretch left then traverse on solid jams to a rounded exit on the far left, above the overhangs.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
VS
4
Handy Wall Hole
Climb the easy groove to a ledge and then the wall on the right, passing the hand pocket.
1 user comment
 S
5
Thunderbirds
From the centre of the wall climb awkwardly to a ledge, through a bulge and diagonally left across the final wall.
1 user comment
 S
6
Woodentops
The left-hand crack to ledges then move left to another crack.
1 user comment
 S
7
Stingray
The mild hand-jamming crack just left of the arete leads steeply to ledges. Finish around to the right.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD
8
Stingray Arete
The arete, climbed on its right-hand side, is excellent. There is some more much harder bouldering to the right.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
f5+
9
Windblasted
The short wall 4m left of the chimney is climbed direct.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Diff
10
Windblown
The juggy wall 3m left of the chimney. Not much gear.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VD
11
Domusnovas
Climb up to and enter the hanging groove. A one-move-wonder.
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
E2
12
Jonah
The wriggly, giggly cleft. Finish up the inside though the detritus for the full Jonah experience!
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
Diff
13
Tight 'uns
Climb the tricky slab just right of the chimney to a ledge. A short awkward wall leads to easier ground.
2 user comments
 VS
14
Titanium
The technical centre of the slab from a gravel patch, and then the bulging wall above keeping left of the blunt central rib.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
15
Titanic
Climb past a wide pocket in the right-hand side of the slab and then up a short slanting crack. Some tasty moves along the way.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
VS
16
Titania
Climb the left arete of the slab and the leaning wall on spaced and hidden jugs. Graded VD for years and upgraded again!
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS
17
Iltis
Climb the steepening right side of the arete to a tricky landing onto a shelf using a huge hidden bucket.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
HS
18
Outflanked
Climb the leaning wall just left of the corner (low crux) to a pocket and a sloping ledge. Take the tower above by worrying...
1 user comment
 HVS
19
Outfoxed
Climb the front of the flake to its top then step right and climb the centre of the wall delicately to a large rocking block.
1 user comment
 VS
20
Fox's Chimney
Amble up the diagonal flake and steeper corner beyond.
1 user comment
 M
21
Foulstone Wall
The steep pocketed wall above the start of the last route.
1 user comment
 VD
22
Finerock Rib
Misnamed; grassy and broken. Up a thin rib on the left side of the slab, step left and continue to a ledge. Finish up the...
1 user comment
 HS
23
Scrapyard Slab
The centre of the slabby face of the block is pleasant and leads to a steep tricky finish through the roof.
1 user comment
 S
24
Boneyard Buttress
Climb the arete to ledges then pass the roof on the left.
1 user comment
 VD
  • Latest Comments

    For DOVESTONE TOR

    Great Buttress
    "Great, great route - A wonderfully relentless pump, and I was mighty glad that I..." 05/Oct top50

    Mock Turtle
    "i don't know if this is the same route i did with Chris Rhoads and Anthony Addis..." 13/Apr

    Sforzando
    "Crosses overhang from jams via a small fingerhold and toe locks to reach a flake..." 23/Feb

    Stingray
    "The crack was ok (I've got big hands but my partner is normal-to-small!), but fo..." 04/Sep

    Tight 'uns
    "The loose block is no longer there - beware of the rubble left on the ledge." 14/Jun

    Iltis
    "Quite stiff for HS 4b, if you can't reach the jugs from below (neither I nor my ..." 28/Jul

    Stingray
    "Another Chris Craggs jamming crack - maybe for future guides you could take some..." 17/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "In reply to Duz Walker, I jammed and swung left to get left knee (it is grit aft..." 10/Sep

    Iltis
    "Mammoth blind reach required to good hold/bucket. I couldn't reach it until I'd ..." 03/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "Is the intention to traverse footless all the way to the sloping nose? Or do you..." 14/Jun

    Granny Smith
    "Looks horrendous- even at the BMC guide grade of E2 5c. Dont know where the good..." 04/Jun

    Excel
    "it seemed to make sense to solo this cos falling on to gear under the roof would..." 07/Sep

    Cox's Pippin
    "not really reachy, just steep with some very small holds (for an HVS) and not mu..." 07/Aug

    Thread Flintstone
    "Thought the move onto the lip seemed a bit harsh - "where are the holds&quo..." 24/Jul

    Caveman
    "This route needs a height restriction. Don't try it if you're over 5'8". ;-..." 17/Jul

    Sforzando
    "I repeated it about ten years ago. I wouldn't complain if the grade was revised ..." 20/Jun

    Poll Taxed
    "Where does this route go? I tried it at the weekend, but couldn't work out if yo..." 12/Jun

    Search for comments