Adjacent Areas
< Twikker | Great North Road >
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
12 minsThe most impressive part of the quarry with a series of breath-taking lines, the old quarrymen really did us proud. From the old major classics of Great North Road and Crewcut, through to the classic scary '70s outings of Green Death and Edge Lane, and on to the fantastic line of The Master’s Edge, there are routes here to inspire through long winter nights. The rock gets all the afternoon sun that is going and dries quickly although it can be green in the winter. Guidebook page 244.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Stone Dri 20m. The blank corner leads delicately past a perched flake to a taxing bridging sequence which is much easier for the tall. | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | E2 6a |
2 |
Crewcut 22m. An intimidating layback up the imposing straight crack, fortunately it is easier than it looks. Threaded chockstones or... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
3 |
Yourolympus 14m. The grassy right-trending crack leads to ledges. From the highest of these head out to the arete to finish. | VS 4c | |
4 |
Myolympus 14m. From the base of the soaring groove trend left up a thin crack to the middle of the wall then finish direct. | HVS 5b | |
5 |
Xanadu A fine but devious climb that sees little attention.1) 4c, 20m. From part way up Crewcut follow the ledge out right to... | 2 Stars Technical | E1 5b |
6 |
Under Doctor's Orders 20m. Follow the seam in the arete right of Crewcut (peg) until it is possible to mantel out right, then reach the mid-way... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | E2 6a |
7 |
Jealous Pensioner 22m. The centre of the drilled wall gives an odd pitch with worrying stretches to and from the mid-height ledge. Ingenious use... | 1 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E4 5c |
8 |
Xanadu Direct 22m. A wild and weird piece of bridging up the blank corner. The tall can make wide bridging moves but shorties will have to... | 2 Stars Reachy Technical | E3 5c |
9 |
Adios Amigo 16m. Climb the right wall of the corner on bore holes and some tiny edges. Protection is placed in the holes. | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E5 6b |
10 |
Great West Road Fine climbing with two impressive and contrasting pitches.1) E2 5b, 18m. Layback up the huge flake to a tiny ledge. The... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E3 5b |
11 |
The Trumpton Anarchist The bold wall left of GWR top pitch, starting up a vague flake. It may contain some old pegs. | Technical Fluttery | E5 6c |
12 |
Edge Lane Top 50 18m. The magnificent sustained scalloped arete is unprotected where it matters although gear can be fiddled in the half-height... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Fluttery | E5 5c |
13 |
Green Death 18m. The superb and scary blank groove. It can be approached from a short way up Edge Lane by a tricky traverse (5c), the... | 3 Stars Fluttery | E5 5c |
14 |
Green Death Superdirect A desperate bridging and smearing problem up the lower section of the corner. | 2 Stars Technical | V8 7a |
15 |
The Master's Edge 18m. One of the major routes of the '80s up the fantastic square-cut arete. A hard lower section enables the sanctuary of the... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E7 6c |
16 |
The Bad and the Beautiful 16m. A fine but desperate and serious outing up the blank wall. 5 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | E6 6b |
17 |
Great Arete 16m. The upper arete is delicate and serious. Start on the ledge and climb first on the right and then on the left. A low bunch... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Fluttery | E5 5c |
18 |
Knightsbridge 34m. A fine thin crack which is one of Millstone's classic E2s. Most people start by scrambling up Scoop Crack to the... 8 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | E2 5c |
19 |
Scoop Crack 32m. A poor start leads to a better top pitch. Climb the cracks in the broken arete to the big ledge and a stance. Take the... 4 user comments | Loose | VS 4b |
