Green Death

Adjacent Areas
< Twikker  |  Great North Road >

Trad
Afternoon sun
12 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The most impressive part of the quarry with a series of breath-taking lines, the old quarrymen really did us proud. From the old major classics of Great North Road and Crewcut, through to the classic scary '70s outings of Green Death and Edge Lane, and on to the fantastic line of The Masterís Edge, there are routes here to inspire through long winter nights. The rock gets all the afternoon sun that is going and dries quickly although it can be green in the winter.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Stone Dri
20m. The blank corner leads delicately past a perched flake to a taxing bridging sequence which is much easier for the tall.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E2 6a
2
Crewcut
22m. An intimidating layback up the imposing straight crack, fortunately it is easier than it looks. Threaded chockstones or...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
3
Yourolympus
14m. The grassy right-trending crack leads to ledges. From the highest of these head out to the arete to finish.
 VS 4c
4
Myolympus
14m. From the base of the soaring groove trend left up a thin crack to the middle of the wall then finish direct.
 HVS 5b
5
Xanadu
A fine but devious climb that sees little attention.1) 4c, 20m. From part way up Crewcut follow the ledge out right to...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E1 5b
6
Under Doctor's Orders
20m. Follow the seam in the arete right of Crewcut (peg) until it is possible to mantel out right, then reach the mid-way...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2 6a
7
Jealous Pensioner
22m. The centre of the drilled wall gives an odd pitch with worrying stretches to and from the mid-height ledge. Ingenious use...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E4 5c
8
Xanadu Direct
22m. A wild and weird piece of bridging up the blank corner. The tall can make wide bridging moves but shorties will have to...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E3 5c
9
Adios Amigo
16m. Climb the right wall of the corner on bore holes and some tiny edges. Protection is placed in the holes.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
10
Great West Road
Fine climbing with two impressive and contrasting pitches.1) E2 5b, 18m. Layback up the huge flake to a tiny ledge. The...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5b
11
The Trumpton Anarchist
The bold wall left of GWR top pitch, starting up a vague flake. It may contain some old pegs.
 
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6c
12
Edge Lane Top 50
18m. The magnificent sustained scalloped arete is unprotected where it matters although gear can be fiddled in the half-height...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E5 5c
13
Green Death
18m. The superb and scary blank groove. It can be approached from a short way up Edge Lane by a tricky traverse (5c), the...
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E5 5c
14
Green Death Superdirect
A desperate bridging and smearing problem up the lower section of the corner.
 
2 Stars
Technical
V8 7B+
15
The Master's Edge
18m. One of the major routes of the '80s up the fantastic square-cut arete. A hard lower section enables the sanctuary of the...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E7 6c
16
The Bad and the Beautiful
16m. A fine but desperate and serious outing up the blank wall.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E6 6b
17
Great Arete
16m. The upper arete is delicate and serious. Start on the ledge and climb first on the right and then on the left. A low bunch...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E5 5c
18
Knightsbridge
34m. A fine thin crack which is one of Millstone's classic E2s. Most people start by scrambling up Scoop Crack to the...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E2 5c
19
Scoop Crack
32m. A poor start leads to a better top pitch. Climb the cracks in the broken arete to the big ledge and a stance. Take the...
4 user comments
 
Loose
VS 4b
  • Latest Comments

    For MILLSTONE

    Gimcrack
    "5a and hard VS if you follow the jamming crack without a deviation - might be 4c..." 13/Jun

    Coventry Street
    "I wonder if the votes for grading relate just to the bottom bit. The lead crux i..." 30/Mar

    Soho Sally
    "Really good varied climbing - but suffers a bit from lack of traffic - so get on..." 02/Sep

    Whitehall
    "Did this today - well done to whoever cleaned it up - it must have been a messy ..." 17/Aug

    Blind Bat
    "Old peg is actually OK and can be backed up with a friend 1 ish. Good crimping" 04/May

    Regent Street
    "I found the top crack hardest, both feet slipped but bomb proof finger locks and..." 15/Dec top50

    Piccadilly Circus
    "Good varied route when done as a big pitch. The hard section is short lived with..." 26/Oct

    Brimstone
    "E2 for me, but if you're happy hanging out on steep stuff with average holds it ..." 02/Oct

    Dextrous Hare
    "great route, good rp's protect" 15/Jul

    Lotto Direct
    "After the Lotto start (E1 5c), this is pretty easy at 5b max, but run out up the..." 10/Jul

    Oxford Street
    "Did the first pitch combined with Piccadilly Circus, which seemed the most logic..." 01/Jun

    Lambeth Chimney
    "Piece of rock at bottom of crag from recent rockfall in first part of chimney, t..." 12/Mar

    Regent Street
    "Great route, powerful then delicate then technical. Kept me in doubt all the wa..." 20/Aug top50

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