Sector Critic

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

At the far left-hand side of the crag is a buttress separated from the main crag by a steep, narrow gully. This receives the sun later than the main crag - cool in the mornings, warm in the evenings.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Margarita, quan pixa
Short and sharp. Two bolts only.
 
Technical
Crimpy
6a+
2
Esperó groc
Start behind the big tree and climb the white wall to large pockets, then up sharp grey rock above.
 
Crimpy
6b
3
Diagnosis superficial
Take the previous climb to the level of a large flake on the right. Step onto this, then climb the wall and thin crack above.
 
1 Stars
6b
4
Pasando de poli
Start on the right of the tree and climb up to a flake. Head up the wall past a small overlap. A very thin finish remains.
 7b
5
Voldria morir
Start up Pasando but move right into Ja estic mort. This combo is probably the best way up the wall.
 
1 Stars
7a
6
Ja estic mort
The smooth wall just to the left of the big red corner.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
7
Gran Diedro
The long beckoning groove has a fine and sustained upper half of layback madness - go for it. Used to be even tougher when you...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5c
8
Selectiva
Start at a large vertical pocket. Climb this to the bulges, then on into a shallow groove until it is possible to exit right.
 
1 Stars
6c
9
Espolón "why"
Climb the steep right side of the arete on spiky pockets. Stay close to the arete to reach more difficult moves, then it eases.
 
1 Stars
6c
10
Megaloceras
A desperate, polished, one-move-wonder crux involving a pull on some tiny sloping pockets.
 
Technical
7a
11
Águilas
18m. A fine route with no fixed gear! Gain the base of the flake and follow it steeply on jugs and finger jams. At the top of...
 
2 Stars
5a
12
Piccolissima
The face between the two flakes has a prominent bolt. Gain this direct (or via a ramp) and pass it via tricky moves (for the...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
6a
13
Tierra Lliure
18m. Gain the base of the right-hand flake from Piccolissima and follow it into a corner. Belays are located on the left, or...
 
1 Stars
5c
14
P.S.A.N.
Climb the smooth wall past a prominent bolt. Move left to finish up the crack.
 6b
15
Beniarrés no em diu res
Unbalanced climbing up the wall, starting at the left side of an alcove/groove and then continuing up the corner above. The...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
5a
16
Tallà
Follow the open groove throughout its length, then continue up the wall above. Awkward to start and finish, but very pleasant.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
5a
17
Placa Simond
To the right is a short rib with bolts. The start is steep.
 
1 Stars
4a
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  • Latest Comments

    For GANDÍA

    El sol
    "Another Gandia classic sandbag! Lovely 6b/6b+ climbing all the way up to the roo..." 14/Jan top50

    Larga, dura y caliente
    "The locals give it 7b/+ to the first lower off. 7a to the last bolt then a boul..." 11/Apr

    Lo que sigui
    "The bucket pulling through the roof is fun, but then it gets trickier.. and is a..." 26/Feb

    Botoia sakatu
    "Excellent. Is using the big hole to the left fair play for a rest at half heigh..." 20/Feb

    Quin Tomas
    "excelent. but more 6b+" 02/Jan

    Bombero gorilero
    "I climbed this route (as portrayed in the photo in the book), however, this rout..." 16/Jul

    Enya
    "Fantastic route. The "hidden" hole had so much chalk around it, it was..." 01/Mar

    Kamari
    "What a great climb, well worth the two stars." 10/Jan

    Erupcion
    "The first 3m are thin (crux) but above this it eases off." 25/Nov

    Peiote de bote
    "If you read this, you can't climb it on sigth.Hidden holds going rigth hand over..." 17/Nov

    Madarikatuak
    "not if you try Chiqui next door !" 19/Apr

    El ser
    "This used to be 5+ in the old guide. It's barely 5+, really, no idea why it gets..." 05/Apr

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