Adjacent Areas
< Sector Hidraulics | Sector Fundició >
This impressive wall has a prominent red streak above a small cave. The routes here are amongst the best of their grade on the cliff, offering superb challenges which are a bit more vertical than elsewhere at Gandía. Guidebook page 384.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Fisura tal.. The open groove is steep to start, and pumpy above. At the top of the crack, step right and climb the wall to a lower-off on... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6a+ |
2 |
Pastor i porreta A sharp eliminate, especially early on, up the bulges and rib. | Technical Crimpy | 6c |
3 |
Niña de porcelana An old classic which is now polished. Steep moves gain the first bolt, continue by varied climbing to a lower-off on the right. | 2 Stars Technical | 6a+ |
4 |
Gora A thin eliminate up the rib just left of the thin crack of Pa roig. Moving right for the top part of Asquerosa coincidencia... | Technical Crimpy | 7a |
5 |
Pa Roig The thin seam gives good pocket-pulling with the crux moves at one-third height where the crack closes and smaller pockets are... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6b |
6 |
Asquerosa coincidencia Steep moves on big holes/holds then a couple of difficult moves gain more excellent pockets and a lowering point. Push on past... | 2 Stars | 6c |
7 |
El sol Top 50 Magnificent climbing up the left-hand edge of the red streak with a tricky finish over the top roof. This is easier to the left... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
8 |
Kin mal d'ous A boulder problem out of the cave. 1 user comment | Technical Strong | 7b |
9 |
Escorreguda precoç An awkward start either side of the cave leads past the lower-off of the last climb. Head up the wall and over the bulge. Old... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | 6c |
10 |
Peiote de bote Climb the shallow groove to a large hole. Better holds lead up the wall to the roof. Cross this using the hidden hold - hard. 3 user comments | 3 Stars Crimpy | 6b |
11 |
Valentet de València An excellent pitch, and easier than it looks. From a tree in a recess, climb the wall, then move right to a recess and tackle... 8 user comments | 3 Stars Crimpy | 6b |
12 |
Placa de Ulaca A fine, fingery pitch up the grey wall. Climb up to the right edge of the hollow with a tree, then take the wall, until forced... | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 6b |
13 |
Muricana Up the left edge of the cave and step right onto the wall. Power through the central bulges on sharp holds, before a small... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 6b |
14 |
Nació Climb the wall just right of the cave past a set of conspicuous holes and up streaky rock. Sustained and excellent. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
15 |
Madarikatuak Start right of a flake and climb the wall (bushes) to a series of large bulges which are passed on their left. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
16 |
Chiqui Start where a diagonal crack reaches the ground and climb slabby rock to an alcove and steeper rock, past a broken flake. | 1 Stars | 6c+ |
17 |
Fes-te-ho Start under an orange alcove at 10m. Climb a shrubby slab and broken rock via a left-facing corner to reach the lower-offs. 1 user comment | 6a+ | |
18 |
En Falles no folles A scrubby start leads to where the routes split. Climb the left-hand line up a grey wall and over a small roof. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 6b |
19 |
Capitán Manchego The right-hand line has an optional lower-off at two-thirds height. Alternatively, join and finish as for the previous route. | 6a | |
20 |
Kaya Starting at the left end of the rock platform, pass between bushes, then climb slightly right up the steep wall above. | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |