Sector Vici

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
10 mins
Sheltered

This impressive wall has a prominent red streak above a small cave. The routes here are amongst the best of their grade on the cliff, offering superb challenges which are a bit more vertical than elsewhere at Gandía. Guidebook page 384.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Fisura tal..
The open groove is steep to start, and pumpy above. At the top of the crack, step right and climb the wall to a lower-off on...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
2
Pastor i porreta
A sharp eliminate, especially early on, up the bulges and rib.
 
Technical
Crimpy
6c
3
Niña de porcelana
An old classic which is now polished. Steep moves gain the first bolt, continue by varied climbing to a lower-off on the right.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
4
Gora
A thin eliminate up the rib just left of the thin crack of Pa roig. Moving right for the top part of Asquerosa coincidencia...
 
Technical
Crimpy
7a
5
Pa Roig
The thin seam gives good pocket-pulling with the crux moves at one-third height where the crack closes and smaller pockets are...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
6
Asquerosa coincidencia
Steep moves on big holes/holds then a couple of difficult moves gain more excellent pockets and a lowering point. Push on past...
 
2 Stars
6c
7
El sol Top 50
Magnificent climbing up the left-hand edge of the red streak with a tricky finish over the top roof. This is easier to the left...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
8
Kin mal d'ous
A boulder problem out of the cave.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Strong
7b
9
Escorreguda precoç
An awkward start either side of the cave leads past the lower-off of the last climb. Head up the wall and over the bulge. Old...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
10
Peiote de bote
Climb the shallow groove to a large hole. Better holds lead up the wall to the roof. Cross this using the hidden hold - hard.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
6b
11
Valentet de València
An excellent pitch, and easier than it looks. From a tree in a recess, climb the wall, then move right to a recess and tackle...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
6b
12
Placa de Ulaca
A fine, fingery pitch up the grey wall. Climb up to the right edge of the hollow with a tree, then take the wall, until forced...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6b
13
Muricana
Up the left edge of the cave and step right onto the wall. Power through the central bulges on sharp holds, before a small...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6b
14
Nació
Climb the wall just right of the cave past a set of conspicuous holes and up streaky rock. Sustained and excellent.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
15
Madarikatuak
Start right of a flake and climb the wall (bushes) to a series of large bulges which are passed on their left.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
16
Chiqui
Start where a diagonal crack reaches the ground and climb slabby rock to an alcove and steeper rock, past a broken flake.
 
1 Stars
6c+
17
Fes-te-ho
Start under an orange alcove at 10m. Climb a shrubby slab and broken rock via a left-facing corner to reach the lower-offs.
1 user comment
 6a+
18
En Falles no folles
A scrubby start leads to where the routes split. Climb the left-hand line up a grey wall and over a small roof.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6b
19
Capitán Manchego
The right-hand line has an optional lower-off at two-thirds height. Alternatively, join and finish as for the previous route.
 6a
20
Kaya
Starting at the left end of the rock platform, pass between bushes, then climb slightly right up the steep wall above.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
  • Access Issues for Costa Blanca


  • Latest Comments

    For GANDÍA

    El sol
    "Another Gandia classic sandbag! Lovely 6b/6b+ climbing all the way up to the roo..." 14/Jan top50

    Larga, dura y caliente
    "The locals give it 7b/+ to the first lower off. 7a to the last bolt then a boul..." 11/Apr

    Lo que sigui
    "The bucket pulling through the roof is fun, but then it gets trickier.. and is a..." 26/Feb

    Botoia sakatu
    "Excellent. Is using the big hole to the left fair play for a rest at half heigh..." 20/Feb

    Quin Tomas
    "excelent. but more 6b+" 02/Jan

    Bombero gorilero
    "I climbed this route (as portrayed in the photo in the book), however, this rout..." 16/Jul

    Enya
    "Fantastic route. The "hidden" hole had so much chalk around it, it was..." 01/Mar

    Kamari
    "What a great climb, well worth the two stars." 10/Jan

    Erupcion
    "The first 3m are thin (crux) but above this it eases off." 25/Nov

    Peiote de bote
    "If you read this, you can't climb it on sigth.Hidden holds going rigth hand over..." 17/Nov

    Madarikatuak
    "not if you try Chiqui next door !" 19/Apr

    El ser
    "This used to be 5+ in the old guide. It's barely 5+, really, no idea why it gets..." 05/Apr

    Pepestroika
    "A great overhanging jug haul and like so many others, I also loved the dong! I ..." 10/Mar top50

    Sugar glass
    "Not 7c, not 3 stars, but worthwhile climbing with one crux move into jug. Just g..." 16/Jan

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