Adjacent Areas
< Great North Road | London Wall >
A superb sheet of rock, originally named after a similar but inferior feature in London. Once the place to learn to aid climb, this is now the home of the finest set of finger cracks in The Peak and possibly the whole of the UK. If you don't like finger jamming best walk on by! Guidebook page 247.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Technical Master The arete is a classic boulder problem. The left-hand side is also 6b but worth V5. May just be the shortest three star route... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | V4 6b |
2 |
Blind Bat 14m. Bold climbing on the upper wall. A runner in Embankment 1 is normal, then climb the wall leftwards on flat holds passing... 5 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E4 5c |
3 |
Embankment 1 1) VS 4c, 12m. The first crack and flake lead past an ancient chunk of iron to the ledge. Often done as a route in its own... 9 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | E2 5c |
4 |
Elm Street 12m. The desperately thin peg scars give a fierce pitch.NOTE: this route is incorrectly graded E7 in the Eastern Grit... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | E8 6c |
5 |
Who Wants The World 12m. The upper wall between the cracks is hard and serious. | Reachy Crimpy Fluttery | E5 6a |
6 |
Embankment 2 Worthwhile, though the second pitch is a bit of a disappointment.1) 4c, 12m. Climb the twin cracks. A big boot on your left... 16 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy Loose | VS 4c |
7 |
Scritto's Republic 16m. Another desperate vague seam between the proper cracks having both runners and holds in short supply. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E7 6c |
8 |
Embankment 3 1) 5b, 14m. An excellent and popular finger jamming pitch. Passing the tat (tied through an ancient peg) is the tricky... 26 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
9 |
Time For Tea 20m. Low in the grade but scary. Follow the crack to a poor rest below the blank upper section. Place 'enough' runners then a... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
10 |
Tea for Two 20m. The direct finish to Time for Tea is bold, technical and poorly protected, though at least there is a decent fall-out... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E4 6a |
11 |
Time For Tea Original 22m. From the poor rest below the blank upper section on Time for Tea, traverse right to join and finish up Embankment 4. Only... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
12 |
Embankment 4 Top 50 22m. The right-hand crack has thin moves up the crack and a superb groove above to a shelving exit. Unlike the rest of the... 10 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
13 |
Whitehall 26m. The deep angle is straightforward (4b) to below the upper smooth section which gives good technical climbing. 4 user comments | 1 Stars | HVS 5b |
14 |
Little Lotto Arete The little arete past a letter box. Eliminate the letterbox at V3, climb it on its right-hand side at V5. 1 user comment | Technical | V2 5c |
15 |
Lotto 24m. Disjointed climbing though with some good moves. Easy ledges lead to a stance below a shallow groove (4b). Climb the... 3 user comments | 1 Stars | E1 5c |
16 |
Lotto Direct Avoid the right side of the arete by staying with the shallow groove. 1 user comment | E3 5c | |
17 |
Seventies Style Wall Thin crimps on the short wall. | Technical | V3 6a |