Sector Potent

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
14 mins
Sheltered

Well named - with a superb array of tufa features to do battle with. Only really strong climbers will do more than a small selection of what is on offer here on a single visit. Guidebook page 388.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Gandia Potent One
Start in a bay and climb a sharp grey slab to shrubbery, then the left-hand side of the tower above to a tricky last move. A...
 5+
2
Stephen Kaka
Climb through the white roofs with difficulty.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
3
Cuartet de bany
An uninspiring start leads to a much better upper section. A short wall and steep groove on the left accesses the front of the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
5
4
Novatillos
Start behind the bushes, then climb the centre of the slabby grey wall by lovely sustained climbing. Not too steep, and well...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
5+
5
P.R.
The long groove looks suspect - and is in places. It gives a long pitch with an awkward bulge at two-thirds height.
 
1 Stars
Loose
4+
6
G.R.
The right-hand fork is tough, and makes the route unbalanced.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
6c+
7
Maque, Popeye y la Sirla
Start from a big block and climb the wall with a quick detour into the groove if needed. Sustained and slightly artificial in...
 
2 Stars
6b+
8
Dónde hostias putas
The wall immediately to the left of the groove is tricky and gets gradually harder as height is gained The local guide gives it...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
6b+
9
Joputa
From the cave, climb steeply up the wall then cross bulges to access the fine grey side wall. Up the centre of this, on good...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
10
Star fort
Up the orange pillar following the left-hand branch to gain the hanging rib on the right of Joputa. The local grade is 7a.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b
11
Tercer ull
Start as for Star fort, but move right and make hard moves (polished holds) to a lower-off on the right.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
7b
12
Muluk el targuí
Superb, intricate climbing with a big finish. Start around to the right of the pillar and climb the centre of the bulging wall...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
7a+
13
Urbália Rurana
Start as for Muluk, but keep right to pass the bulges (crux) and reach easier terrain above. Low in the grade.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b
14
Sugar glass
The steep wall (conspicuous old ring bolts and newer bolts too) has some excellent climbing. Climb past a hole, then press on...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
15
Botoia sakatu
Start steeply up the large, black, left-hand tufa system, and eventually cross a roof high up the crag. Avoiding using the big...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
16
Enya
The right-hand tufa system. Start at a small cave, then trend right up the fine sustained wall. Steep and fingery climbing...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b
17
Baila al alba
A fine tufa system with two roofs for good measure. The fourth bolts are paired. The crux is a bizarre move to get stood on a...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
18
A la babilla Top 50
Start just left a bush at head height. Climb through a love heart at 8m, then swing onto the trunk. Only a short hard section,...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
19
L'os
Start just right of the elephant-like tufa. Do the bouldery start then press on up the steep pocketed seam and juggy wall...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
20
Dos super carrozas Top 50
Start by pulling over the bulge with difficulty. Continue up the tilted wall to a lower-off situated just below a tree.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
21
Don Diego Top 50
Another great route with a steep start and high crux. Silver bolts trend left then right. All the pockets are good though some...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
22
Jaqo mata
A powerful start and a tricky finish, if you are pumped, which you probably will be. Trend to the right to a large pocket above...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
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  • Latest Comments

    For GANDÍA

    El sol
    "Another Gandia classic sandbag! Lovely 6b/6b+ climbing all the way up to the roo..." 14/Jan top50

    Larga, dura y caliente
    "The locals give it 7b/+ to the first lower off. 7a to the last bolt then a boul..." 11/Apr

    Lo que sigui
    "The bucket pulling through the roof is fun, but then it gets trickier.. and is a..." 26/Feb

    Botoia sakatu
    "Excellent. Is using the big hole to the left fair play for a rest at half heigh..." 20/Feb

    Quin Tomas
    "excelent. but more 6b+" 02/Jan

    Bombero gorilero
    "I climbed this route (as portrayed in the photo in the book), however, this rout..." 16/Jul

    Enya
    "Fantastic route. The "hidden" hole had so much chalk around it, it was..." 01/Mar

    Kamari
    "What a great climb, well worth the two stars." 10/Jan

    Erupcion
    "The first 3m are thin (crux) but above this it eases off." 25/Nov

    Peiote de bote
    "If you read this, you can't climb it on sigth.Hidden holds going rigth hand over..." 17/Nov

    Madarikatuak
    "not if you try Chiqui next door !" 19/Apr

    El ser
    "This used to be 5+ in the old guide. It's barely 5+, really, no idea why it gets..." 05/Apr

    Pepestroika
    "A great overhanging jug haul and like so many others, I also loved the dong! I ..." 10/Mar top50

    Sugar glass
    "Not 7c, not 3 stars, but worthwhile climbing with one crux move into jug. Just g..." 16/Jan

    Fisura tal..
    "Topo line is wrong, but the above description is right - heading rightwards give..." 04/Jan

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