Adjacent Areas
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Trad and Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
20 minsWindy
The Upper Tier gets far less traffic than the lower walls but has been described by some as the best sector at Gandía. It can be a bit cooler than the lower sectors if there is a breeze blowing. Guidebook page 394.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Pep Camarera A grey slab leads to an overlap with orange staining below it. Pull over on the right and continue steeply. No fixed gear. 1 user comment | 5 | |
2 |
Golondrinas Another route needing a rack. Climb right of a large spike, then take a direct line to the top of the cliff. | 5 | |
3 |
Eva Luna From blocks, step left then climb right of a ragged crack. Cross the bulges and trend right to chains below the final overlap. | 1 Stars | 6c |
4 |
Derribos Arias Take a parallel line to Eva Luna tackling the bulges from right to left via a scoop. Finish at a lower-off above a ledge. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 6b+ |
5 |
Sand Bag Climb past a large hole at 4m, then up some small tufas to the bulges. Head left with difficulty. The lower-off is on the... | Strong | 7a |
6 |
Boca de grimpau The cop-out version avoids the sandbag by passing the bulges on their right-hand side. | 1 Stars | 6b+ |
7 |
Guatleta Start up a vegetated ramp (thread) then sharp sustained climbing via a ragged crack splitting the smooth grey wall. | Pumpy Crimpy | 6c |
8 |
Queferoset The left-hand line on the pillar. Start behind a big tree and climb up the rib and overlap. Not as good as it looks. 1 user comment | Crimpy | 6c |
9 |
Rosarito Start up a yellow groove, head for the lower-off on Queferoset. | 6b | |
10 |
Esfínter dilatat Begin at a cave and follow a line leftwards up pleasantly sustained and perfect rock via one harder move. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Crimpy | 5+ |
11 |
Sarcófago? The impressive block overhang is approached direct, and then battled with. Keeping right is 7b+, left may be harder. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7b+ |
12 |
Anatema maranata The roof is crossed on its right with a point of aid - how quaint. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Strong | 7b |
13 |
Celtas Cortos Thin tufas and finger pockets lead to the roof which is skirted on its right edge. A fine sustained pitch, high in the grade. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6a+ |
14 |
Guirigay Start under a right-facing groove in the upper part of the wall. Climb through a bulge and up a pocketed white wall, finish up... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6a+ |
15 |
Gandia Topdeckio 15 A straightforward lower section on orange rock leads to hard moves up the shallow hanging groove on the right. | 1 Stars Technical | 6c |
16 |
Tranquilizad Climb directly up to the centre of the large grey bulge, then trend rightwards through this to the open upper wall. | 1 Stars Strong | 7a |
17 |
Gandia Topdeckio 17 The right arete of the bulges is sometimes wet. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 6b+ |
18 |
Descara The right wall of the deep corner is climbed trending rightwards and crossing the bulge with gusto. | 2 Stars Strong | 6b+ |
19 |
Gandia Topdeckio 19 Climb through the right-hand side of the red caves then make a hard move onto the wall above. | 1 Stars Technical | 7a |
20 |
Boltxevique Climb the grey streak in the back of the bay passing right of a tree in a hole and continue steeply. Impressive. | 2 Stars Technical Strong | 6c |
21 |
Vulcano Climb a slab with a prominent bolt, then climb the fine pocketed wall just left of a tree to a technical and crimpy finish. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy | 6c+ |
22 |
Gandia Topdeckio 22 The steep orange streak just right again is also excellent. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Strong | 6b+ |
23 |
Lo que sigui Climb the pocketed wall and follow the diagonal crack to where jugs lead through a roof into a scoop in the wall above. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 6a+ |
24 |
Mal del tord Climb low-angled rock, then continue up the wall, passing to the left of the tree sprouting from the awkward diagonal crack.... | 2 Stars Graunchy | 5+ |
25 |
Kamari Climb right of the tree trending right via a central steepening then up easier rock above. Good holds and great climbing. 3 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Pumpy | 6a |
26 |
Cotó-en-pels Climb the steepening slab past a horizontal break and on up the face above. Very pleasant. 3 user comments | 2 Stars | 5+ |
27 |
Gandia Topdeckio 27 The final line on the grey wall is pleasant but very sharp. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Crimpy | 5+ |
