Sectors Petorri and Descote

Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
15 mins

The sunny south face has some nice slab climbing and great views. The routes here are at a lot friendlier grades than the North Face. The highest sectors on the ridge consist of a couple of clean walls with a good set of routes. Guidebook page 136.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Petorri
An easy climb on the far left. A connection across to the next route is better, but a bit harder.
 3+
2
Fácil
10m. An easy and tiny climb on the far left. A connection across to the next route is better, but a bit harder.
 3+
3
Bon día
Climb a left-sloping ramp and a bulging rib to a lower-off just over the overhang. The bulge direct is tough (5+?) but a bolt...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
5
4
Cursilanía
An nice beginner's climb but not a complete push-over. Start just right of a large bush and pull over an overlap then pass left...
 
1 Stars
4
5
Como te dé la Gana
The short line of four bolts to a big lower-off.
 
Technical
4
6
Cursilería
14m. An excellent beginner’s climb. Start just right of a large bush and pull over an overlap then pass left of a tufa streak...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
4
7
Lo corto
10m. The short line of four bolts to a big lower-off.
2 user comments
 
Technical
5+
8
Fam de gos
Start left of the blunt rib, left of the X shaped crack. Make sustained moves up the slab with a crux move over the centre of...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
5+
9
Pilar
Another nice one though the first bolt is a bit high. Start at the left edge of the X, and press on up superb rock above.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
5
10
Noche golfa
Climb through the right side of the X then directly up the slab (blinkers) before moving left to join the last climb. It is...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6a
11
Paula
An awkward start leads to easier stuff. Start up the right-slanting crack reach holes and a flake then climb the...
 
1 Stars
5+
12
Tiburón
Start at a wide crack, leading to a break containing a small shrub, and climb a mid-height bulge. Then follow the slab and...
 
1 Stars
5+
13
Plácido Domingo
Start up broken yellow rock and climb to a short crack to a taxing exit. Move right to a lower-off below a bulge.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a
14
Jodido Lunes
Climb broken rock (first bolt in a bulge) then up cracks to steeper territory. Step right and climb the shield to easier...
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a
15
De los cuatro
The left-hand line has a steep but juggy upper section.
 
1 Stars
4
16
De Joan
The tiny and easy-peasy right-hand offering.
 3
17
Otra ruta
18m. Start up broken yellow rock and climb to a short crack to a taxing exit. Move right to a lower-off below a bulge.
 
1 Stars
Technical
5+
18
Nuevo ruta
18m. Climb broken rock (1st bolt in a bulge) then up cracks to steeper territory. Step right and climb the shield (steep) to...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
19
Left
14m. The left-hand line has a steep but juggy upper section.
 
1 Stars
4
20
Right
10m. The tiny right-hand offering.
 3
21
Caballería
A two pitch route, on natural gear. It isn't popular. Carry a rack.1) 4, 14m. Start up a right-facing corner to ledges then...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
4+
22
Marisol
The left-hand side of the slab is climbed direct and is well equipped although it is very artificial if you try and avoid...
 
1 Stars
6a
23
Freire sin aceite
The centre of the slab gives a good pitch with a bloc move passing the small slab at 2/3 height. Black bolts mark the way.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
24
Entrepiernas
The right-hand side of the blunt rib is the hardest here, though still a bit of a soft-touch (we like them).
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
25
Espolón derecha
16m. The right-hand side of the blunt rib is the hardest here.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
26
Mujer furtiva
The line up the bubbly rock is pleasant and not too hard.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6a+
27
Las escaletas fuman petas
A shorter line on the right up the slab and groove.
 
1 Stars
5+
28
Chimo
The cracks and grooves have some interesting moments.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a
29
Chumi
A minor right-hand variation.
 6a
30
Route 19
12m. A shorter line on the right, passing a couple of old pegs.
 5+
31
Cosme
This is the rib that starts at the foot of the ramp. Follow this throughout with two crux sections; a strenuous one early on,...
 
1 Stars
Strong
5+
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  • Latest Comments

    For FORADÀ

    Llei dels Maleans
    "Nice route, all the routes on this slab are very similar. Thin and sharp with v..." 11/Jul

    Satori
    "fpund out in new guide its called JotaKe 8b+, total quality and very slopey, one..." 13/Jun

    Del Forat
    "Easier than it looks. The cave is very surprising, but do not go down without pr..." 26/Mar

    El golfo de la guerra
    "Agreed with Neil description and E4G not right but that said excellent warm-up f..." 02/Jan

    Golondrinas
    "A good extension is available above (right hand line of bolts) at 6b+, with some..." 06/Aug

    Elios
    "One of the best routes in the costa blanca!" 20/Apr top50

    El último mohicano
    "One hard pull on a tiny hold then an ok rest before one more hard move. Easy to ..." 02/Sep

    Los patos de la Moncloa
    "Good 3 move boulder problem after steep juggy start, then great wall climbing to..." 01/May

    Bon día
    "this is a bloody hard route, i dunno where ewan gets 4+ from, theres a lower off..." 28/Apr

    La Plutga
    "Following the bolt line I thought the last few moves, especially clipping the ch..." 17/Apr

    Muscleman
    "Massive holds!" 13/Apr top50

    Ana
    "si vas recto por los parabolt yo creo que es 7b+/7c" 24/Mar

    Lutor
    "Mostly steady climbing, but one very hard move at mid-height, going for a hold t..." 13/Oct

    Ana
    "This is climbed free at 7b." 02/Sep

    Spiderman
    "Spiderman is graded 6c+ since it was bolted. Do not invent grades please, mr. ro..." 05/Jun

    Valapenos
    "Soft touch, particularly when compared to Joker." 20/Mar

    Thor
    "A brilliant pitch with a cunning rest at half height." 18/Apr top50

    Disturbio vertical
    "good steep climbing with good rests between a series of 3 or 4 roof 'problems'." 18/Apr

    Del Forat
    "I really can't see how this is 5+ or one star" 20/Dec

    La Plutga
    "Photo of the route is innaccurate. You need to follow the obvious bolts to the t..." 30/Oct

    Bon día
    "I thought this one had a very hard move for the grade, though it was a lot less ..." 04/Oct

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