Keyhole Cave

Adjacent Areas
< London Wall  |  Hells Bells >

Trad
Afternoon sun
6 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

A steep wall riven by vertical cracks and featuring two wide red slots known for obvious reasons as the Keyhole Caves. The rock on the faces is good but that in the caves is soft and sandy and many visits into either recess end with a "never again" vow. Regent Street is one of the very best E2s in the Peak and it manages to avoid the caves. Coventry Street and Jermyn Street are harder classics that do get involved with the sandy stuff.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Petticoat Lane
24m. Follow the left-hand thin crack until it fades then move up and left to ledges. Trend right up the wall to finish with...
 
Fluttery
Loose
HVS 4c
2
Bow Street
20m. The right-hand thin crack is climbed to a narrow overlap. Pass this then move right into Brixton Road.
1 user comment
 
Crimpy
Loose
HVS 4c
3
Brixton Road
24m. The best lower-grade route in the quarry - sadly its not THAT good. Climb the wide crack to ledges then the groove on the...
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
VD
4
Sky Walk
24m. A well named route that traverses above the exposed lip of the Keyhole Cave. It is most easily reached via Brixton Road...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
HS 4b
5
Adam Smith's Invisible Hand
20m. The soaring left arete of the wall. Tat on the ancient rusty bolts and a tied-off peg round the arete are the only gear.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
6
The Rack
20m. Follow the old bolt ladder on a series of sharp and rather snappy holds to the left edge of the cave. Side-runners...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
E5 6a
7
Oxford Street
22m. The wide left-hand crack (a stiff HVS 5a pitch) leads to the cave; poor belays, it is better to press-on. A very hard move...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E3 6b
8
Piccadilly Circus
24m. The middle finger crack leads to the cave (worthwhile at HVS 5b) and poor belays - best continue. A tricky traverse left...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 5c
9
Coventry Street
22m. A popular test-piece, usually the best chalked-up of the cracks. Difficulties escalate as the cave approaches with a hard...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4 6b
10
Jermyn Street
24m. The thin crack and shallow groove lead to the cave. Climb the right arete (wires) then traverse the handrail out left...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
11
Regent Street Top 50
22m. Magnificent! Climb steeply to pass the jammed block (technical crux?) then trend right to a shallow groove and ledges...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E2 5c
12
Wall Street Crash
20m. A good technical route with fingery moves on iron lumps. Now bolder due to the removal of the old aid bolts and their...
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
13
Shaftesbury Avenue
20m. The fist-and-a-bit-width crack at the right-hand side of the wall leads to a small overhang, big cams are an advantage....
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
HVS 5b
14
The Whore
20m. Climb to the overhang (crux) and layback through using a finger crack to easier ground. Another one with a grotty exit.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
HVS 5b
15
Gimcrack
22m. A good jamming crack leads up the wall left of the right-hand cave to enter a shallow right-facing groove. The exit from...
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For MILLSTONE

    Gimcrack
    "5a and hard VS if you follow the jamming crack without a deviation - might be 4c..." 13/Jun

    Coventry Street
    "I wonder if the votes for grading relate just to the bottom bit. The lead crux i..." 30/Mar

    Soho Sally
    "Really good varied climbing - but suffers a bit from lack of traffic - so get on..." 02/Sep

    Whitehall
    "Did this today - well done to whoever cleaned it up - it must have been a messy ..." 17/Aug

    Blind Bat
    "Old peg is actually OK and can be backed up with a friend 1 ish. Good crimping" 04/May

    Regent Street
    "I found the top crack hardest, both feet slipped but bomb proof finger locks and..." 15/Dec top50

    Piccadilly Circus
    "Good varied route when done as a big pitch. The hard section is short lived with..." 26/Oct

    Brimstone
    "E2 for me, but if you're happy hanging out on steep stuff with average holds it ..." 02/Oct

    Dextrous Hare
    "great route, good rp's protect" 15/Jul

    Lotto Direct
    "After the Lotto start (E1 5c), this is pretty easy at 5b max, but run out up the..." 10/Jul

    Oxford Street
    "Did the first pitch combined with Piccadilly Circus, which seemed the most logic..." 01/Jun

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