Keyhole Cave

Adjacent Areas
< London Wall  |  Hells Bells >

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Up and Down
Sheltered

A steep crack-riven wall with two wide red slots known for obvious reasons as the Keyhole Caves. The rock on the faces is good but that in the caves is sandy, unstable and horrid. Regent Street is one of the very best E2s in the Peak and it avoids the caves. Coventry Street and Jermyn Street are harder classics that do get involved with the red sandy stuff.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Petticoat Lane
Follow the left-hand thin crack until it fades then move up and left to ledges. Trend right up the wall to finish with care.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Loose
HVS 4c
2
Bow Street
The right-hand thin crack is climbed to a narrow overlap. Pass this then move right into Brixton Road. Watch for snappy holds...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
HVS 4c
3
Brixton Road
The best lower-grade route in the quarry - sadly it is not THAT good. Climb the wide crack to ledges then the groove and arete...
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
VD
4
Sky Walk
A well-named trip traversing above the exposed lip of the Keyhole Cave. It is most easily reached via Brixton Road and...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Loose
VS 4b
5
Adam Smith's Invisible Hand
The fine left arete of the wall. Tat on the ancient rusty bolts and a peg round the arete are the only gear - bold. It is also...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E6 6b
6
The Rack
Follow the old bolt ladder on a series of sharp and rather snappy holds to the left edge of the cave. Side-runners protect.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Loose
E5 6a
7
Oxford Street
The wide left-hand crack (a decent but stiff HVS 5a pitch) leads to the cave. A very hard move through the notch in the...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6b
8
Piccadilly Circus
The middle finger-crack leads to the cave - worthwhile at solid HVS 5b. A tricky traverse left and technical wall gain a ledge...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 5c
9
Coventry Street
A popular testpiece. Difficulties escalate to a hard final move - easier after a quick rest on the rope! The sandy roof above...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
10
Jermyn Street
A thin crack and shallow groove lead to the cave. Climb the right arete (small wires - tricky to place) then traverse the...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E5 6a
11
Regent Street Top 50
Majestic! Climb steeply past the jammed block (technical crux?) then trend right to a shallow groove and ledges below the...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
E2 5c
12
Wall Street Crash
A good technical route with fingery moves on iron clumps. Now bolder due to the removal of the old aid bolts and their...
 
2 Stars
E5 6b
13
Shaftesbury Avenue
The off-width crack at the right-hand side of the wall leads to a small overhang - big cams and big hams help. The wall above...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
HVS 5b
14
The Whore
Climb to the overhang and layback through it via a finger-crack to easier ground - awkward gear. Spoilt by a grotty exit.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
HVS 5b
15
Gimcrack
Good jamming leads up the wall left of the right-hand cave to a shallow right-facing groove. The exit from this requires care...
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
VS 4c
16
Happy Wanderer
A tough crack leads to the cave then traverse left to escape.
 
Loose
VS 5a
17
Oriel
The slanting jamming-crack has hard moves left to the cave. Step right and climb the slab to runners and an earth cornice.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
VS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For MILLSTONE

    Whitehall
    "Changed from HVS 5b * to HVS 5b **, 100% of 3 votes for **" 23/Mar

    Gimcrack
    "5a and hard VS if you follow the jamming crack without a deviation - might be 4c..." 13/Jun

    Coventry Street
    "I wonder if the votes for grading relate just to the bottom bit. The lead crux i..." 30/Mar

    Soho Sally
    "Really good varied climbing - but suffers a bit from lack of traffic - so get on..." 02/Sep

    Whitehall
    "Did this today - well done to whoever cleaned it up - it must have been a messy ..." 17/Aug

    Blind Bat
    "Old peg is actually OK and can be backed up with a friend 1 ish. Good crimping" 04/May

    Regent Street
    "I found the top crack hardest, both feet slipped but bomb proof finger locks and..." 15/Dec top50

    Piccadilly Circus
    "Good varied route when done as a big pitch. The hard section is short lived with..." 26/Oct

    Brimstone
    "E2 for me, but if you're happy hanging out on steep stuff with average holds it ..." 02/Oct

    Dextrous Hare
    "great route, good rp's protect" 15/Jul

    Lotto Direct
    "After the Lotto start (E1 5c), this is pretty easy at 5b max, but run out up the..." 10/Jul

    Oxford Street
    "Did the first pitch combined with Piccadilly Circus, which seemed the most logic..." 01/Jun

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