Sector Espolón Mágico

Adjacent Areas
< Sector La Higuera  |  Sector Picara Viborita >

Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
13 mins
Uphill
Restricted Access

'The Magic Pillar' is slightly over-sold by its name, but the smooth wall to its right is quite good.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Fisura mágica
The initial slab is climbed then move left to the thin crack that splits the face and leads to the lower-off.
 6a+
2
Placa mágica
The initial slab and wall left of the arete is squeezed in.
 
Technical
6b+
3
Espolón mágico
Up the initial wall, then move right into the orange bay and on over the roof. The best of the trio here.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
4
Los dedos del mono
Climb the orange streak. At this grade, most people will accept a quick rest on the tree just to the left (more like 7b...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
5
Marca pasos
Brilliant climbing up the blank face; probably the best here.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a+
6
Agárrate donde puedas
Hard climbing up the gently leaning wall, initially to the left of a flake crack.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
7
Bozal de esparadrapo
A hard gap-filler.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
8
7b el plumero
Straight up the wall passing to the right of some flowstone lumps at 5m and pulling through a mid-height bulge.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a
9
Cangrena
A fingery pitch trending rightwards up the wall.
 
Technical
Crimpy
6c+
10
Paprika
Just right of a scar on the wall, another fingery pitch passing through a small overlap.
 
Technical
Crimpy
6b
11
Avoriaz en pelotas me verás
The easiest on the wall by some distance.
 5c