Adjacent Areas
< Sector La Higuera | Sector Picara Viborita >
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill
13 minsWindy
Restricted Access
a Access - No climbing (normally from 1st March to 1st June) due
'The Magic Pillar' is slightly over-sold by its name, but the smooth wall to its right is quite good. Guidebook page 102.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Fisura mágica The initial slab is climbed then move left to the thin crack that splits the face and leads to the lower-off. | 6a+ | |
2 |
Placa mágica The initial slab and wall left of the arete is squeezed in. | Technical | 6b+ |
3 |
Espolón mágico Up the initial wall, then move right into the orange bay and on over the roof. The best of the trio here. | 1 Stars Technical | 6b |
4 |
Los dedos del mono Climb the orange streak. At this grade, most people will accept a quick rest on the tree just to the left (more like 7b... | 1 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
5 |
Marca pasos Brilliant climbing up the blank face; probably the best here. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 7a+ |
6 |
Agárrate donde puedas Hard climbing up the gently leaning wall, initially to the left of a flake crack. | 1 Stars Technical | 7b |
7 |
Bozal de esparadrapo A hard gap-filler. | 1 Stars Technical | 7c |
8 |
7b el plumero Straight up the wall passing to the right of some flowstone lumps at 5m and pulling through a mid-height bulge. | 1 Stars Pumpy | 7a |
9 |
Cangrena A fingery pitch trending rightwards up the wall. | Technical Crimpy | 6c+ |
10 |
Paprika Just right of a scar on the wall, another fingery pitch passing through a small overlap. | Technical Crimpy | 6b |
11 |
Avoriaz en pelotas me verás The easiest on the wall by some distance. | 5+ | |