Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Downhill
5 minsThe most imposing face in the quarry is the fine steep wall behind the pool. Once an aid practice ground it now has a fine collection of hard free routes. Arguments about the relative grades of Boulevard, Billy Whizz and High Street continue! The ledge can be reached from the right over blocks though at high tide this can be tricky. A belay here is no bad idea - splash-downs are more common than you might expect! Guidebook page 257.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Lawrencefield Ordinary 24m. A wandering trip with good views. From the left end of the ledge behind the Pool, climb a groove then head left up ledges... 1 user comment | VD | |
2 |
Austin's Variation 10m. The flake and corner above the start of the Ordinary (possible belay below it) give a short and strenuous pitch. | 1 Stars Strong | VS 4c |
3 |
High Plains Drifter 20m. A wandering trip up the left-hand side of the wall. Climb a shallow groove to steeper rock then pull right and back left... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Reachy Crimpy | E4 6a |
4 |
Boulevard 18m. The left-hand continuous crack system is hard work. Start as for H.P.D. but move right to the crack. Protection is good... 7 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E3 5c |
5 |
Von Ryan's Express 8m. A serious gap-filler. Start direct (or up Billy Whizz), arrange side-runners then gain a small ledge. Leave this with some... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6b |
6 |
Billy Whizz Top 50 18m. The central line on the wall is often well-chalked. High in the grade; short climbers with fat fingers can justly claim an... 19 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | E2 5c |
7 |
High Street 20m. Amble up the slab then attack the right-hand crack system via a taxing start to the breather. Step right and follow the... 7 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E4 6a |
8 |
Holy Grail 8m. The least attractive of the routes on the back wall. Start up Excalibur and step left at the steepening. Climb the blocky... | Technical Pumpy | E4 5c |
9 |
Excalibur 20m. The long groove at the right-hand side of the pool (rising from the lake) steepens towards the top. It can be greasy after... 7 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
10 |
J.J.2 8m. The short-lived crack right of the layback of Excalibur. | Crimpy | E1 5b |