Adjacent Areas
< Pared de Gegant | Pared de la Via >
Sport
Morning sun
Level
5 minsImpolitely known as The Giant's Turd, the section of rock above the water channel is south-facing and has some good closely-packed climbs up to 20m in length. The climbs are generally better than they look. This face gets plenty of sun and is better sheltered from the wind than some of the other faces. Guidebook page 360.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
S'has Golo 18m. Start 4m left of the bridge. The initial bulge is crossed by some harsh pocket pulling. Pass more bulges and a bush to a... | Crimpy | 7a+ |
2 |
Barrufets 18m. Start 1m left of the plank bridge and pocket-pull around the right edge of the smooth bulges and then head up the easier... | 1 Stars Crimpy | 6c |
3 |
Pitufos 18m. Start opposite the plank bridge at a bush. Climb the rib immediately right of the bulges - sustained and fingery - with... | 1 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 6a |
4 |
Pelawatios 18m. Climb left of a yellow scar at 6m then through a bulge (old bolts) and up the steep wall to a new lower-off on the right. | 1 Stars | 6a |
5 |
Espero Boxerini 18m. The wall directly below the arete high on the cliff has one awkward move to gain the cleaned crack. The arete is... | 1 Stars | 6a |
6 |
Dolores 18m. A line of new bolts up the wall. At the top step left and bridge the corner to a lower-off in the left wall. | 1 Stars | 6a |
7 |
Caragol 16m. Start up a short rib above the narrowest part of the path and climb the wall, passing a couple of tricky moves at two... | 5 | |
8 |
Tirali calceti 14m. Starting at a cave at the base of the cliff, climb direct up a narrowing slab, an orange groove and a short leaning wall. | 6a+ | |
9 |
Cap de caixo 14m. The first route right of the cave has a prominent bolt early on. Climb left of a yellow flake up two short leaning walls. | 6a | |
10 |
Dolores con piano 14m. Follow the line of new bolts over an overlap and straight on up the orange wall. | 6a | |
11 |
Flamingo 14m. An older bolt above the 1st overhang marks the start. Climb grey bubbly rock and a left-trending shallow groove. | 6a | |
12 |
Tortugo 12m. The face just left of an easy groove is reached over a couple of overhangs and climbed via a broken flake. | 6a | |
13 |
L'ortage 10m. The left-hand flake on the right side of the buttress is quite hard for the grade. | 4 | |
14 |
Obré Llaunes 10m. The odd wide yet shallow chimney feature is bridged or jammed to a selection of lower-offs. | 4 | |
15 |
Sopa de ganso 20m. The left-facing orange crack on the left side of the wall is followed to difficult moves out right to reach the lower-off. | Pumpy | 6a+ |
16 |
Va que's per hui 20m. Start immediately right of a large flake and reach the thin hanging crack via an overhang and some left-trending grooves.... | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6a |
17 |
Roca bola 20m. A steep start up a rusty red flake and grey wall, then the left side of the broad bulging rib. The route features plenty... | 1 Stars Technical Rounded | 6a+ |
18 |
Pancho verde 20m. A line of green bolts up the blank rib is hideously hard. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b |
19 |
Mitja vía 20m. A line through the smooth scoop. Start as for the last route but step out right to thin fingery climbing up the scoop. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6c+ |
20 |
Man fotuto 18m. The right side of the scoop is a fierce sharp pitch. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a+ |
21 |
Bon tacto 20m. A right-hand finish to Man fotuto up the rounded rib. | 1 Stars | 7a+ |
22 |
Si hay siroco 18m. A line up tilted grey rock passing below the scar where a tree used to be, then trending left to the lower-off. | 6c+ | |
23 |
Ara no Bailo 18m. The lower bulges are tackled via a hanging ramp/niche. Pull over the left end of the final overhang. | 6b+ | |
24 |
Marti Tirali 18m. Pull over the right side of the lower bulge then trend left up the fine grey wall to the lower-off of the previous climb. | 1 Stars | 6b |
25 |
La penya dels Butifarras 18m. A direct line above the start of the last climb up the wall then across the small roof to finish. | 1 Stars | 6a+ |
26 |
Pablito clavo un clavito 18m. Start from a flat ledge and climb past a big bolt into a scoop then follow a left-trending scoop to the lower-off. | 1 Stars | 6b |
27 |
De repente un parapent 18m. The same start leads to the rib just to the right and an exit rightwards through the roof. | Technical | 6c+ |
28 |
Seccio homos 18m. Follow the groove to the right of the rib to the roof and finish straight through these. | Technical | 6c |
29 |
Desastre per a un sastre 18m. The last line here starts up the shattered bubbly rib on the right then powers leftwards through the roof. | Strong | 6b+ |
30 |
Que contén qu'estic 18m. Climb scruffy rock passing two bolts and then better climbing up the smooth rib above. | 6c | |
31 |
Relajación 12m. The short left-hand line up a rib. | 5+ | |
32 |
Opa ostil 12m. Very smooth rock just to the right. | 7a | |
33 |
Cap Finet 10m. The central line passing a very useful hole. | 6b+ | |
34 |
Mano guarra 10m. The centre of the orange wall directly above the dam. | 7a+ | |
35 |
La trampa 10m. Start up the brick work and then follow the rib above. | 6a | |