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Adjacent Areas
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Trad and Sport

Sun and Shade

Uphill

20 mins

Windy

The vast south face is where the most interest is for climbers. On its left-hand side is a prominent and impressive pillar of rock which is separated from the main face by a wide open corner. This corner is where the popular Vía Valencianos weaves its intricate line. The other routes in this area are mostly variations on this. Although there are some fully bolted pitches the shared lower pitches only have limited fixed gear meaning a small rack is required for most of these routes. Guidebook page 324.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Same E1. Tackles the buttress below the ridge of the Valencianos slab. The climbing is good and the tube is unique, but the route is... 1 user comment	1 Stars Loose	6a
2	Vía Valencianos Top 50 VS. This famous route is too unbalanced and scrappy to be a real classic, but it is popular and takes an easy line up this... 29 user comments	2 Stars Loose	5+
3	Direct de UBSA E1. An interesting variation on Vía Valencianos.1) 4, 38m. Follow the first pitch of Valencianos, but move left to a bolt... 10 user comments	1 Stars	6a
4	Polvos mágicos E1. A neat direct version of Valencianos with a great line. Escape onto Valencianos is an option at several points. Take a... 5 user comments	2 Stars Loose	6a+
5	Sensacion de vivir A worthwhile route up the left-hand side of the Valencianos slab. Take a small rack of wires for the start.1) and 2) 6a,...	1 Stars Loose	6b+
6	Virginia Díez A short, bolted and worthwhile direct finish to Polvos mágicos.1) to 4) 6a+, 110m. As for Polvos mágicos.5) 5, 25m....	1 Stars Loose	6b
7	Pilar López de Sancho A spectacular finale up the great tower which hangs over the Vía Valencianos slab. It shares a start with Polvos mágicos...	2 Stars	6c
8	Piratas HVS. One of the original lines on the wall. It has good climbing, but sees few ascents and has some loose rock. Take a...	1 Stars Loose	5+
9	Los miserables A good finale, though all the rambling to get to it is a pain. A better alternative is to use pitches 3 and 4 of Pilar López de... 1 user comment	1 Stars	6c+
10	Costa Blanca Top 50 A brilliant route which is one of the best in the area. The climbing is superb and independent, and the finish is breathtaking.... 12 user comments	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	6c+
11	Costa Miserables A brilliant combination which avoids the hard last pitch of Costa Blanca by traversing the ledge of Diedro UBSA to join and...	3 Stars Pumpy	6b+
12	Puto paseo ecológico A seven-pitch classic with atmospheric and intimidating climbing. Start midway between Costa Blanca and Diedro UBSA, under the... 6 user comments	3 Stars Technical	7a
13	Me estoy quedando sin yemas There is another line of bolts on the right-hand side of the pillar.1) 6a/A0, 30m. Aid the short leaning wall to...	1 Stars Technical	6c
14	Diedro UBSA Top 50 HVS. A classic expedition which takes the groove to a belay behind the pinnacle and then continues to reach the large cave high... 27 user comments	3 Stars Loose	5+
15	El navegante A magnificent route which is of the same calibre as Costa Blanca, or even better, some say. It follows a very steep and direct... 3 user comments	3 Stars Technical Pumpy Loose	7a
16	Manuel A long route with a fine first pitch but overshadowed by its neighbours above that. The upper sections have little quality...	1 Stars Fluttery Loose	6b
17	Manuel Pitch 1 A fine, steep and technical pitch that has just enough fixed gear to be considered a sport route.	2 Stars Pumpy	6b+
18	Línea Mágica Another long modern route which gives superb climbing and positions. A small rack is needed for the section shared with...	3 Stars Pumpy Loose	6c+
19	Vía Gómez-Cano E3. A massive mountaineering classic which takes in some incredible rock at a reasonable grade. It follows a long sweeping... 4 user comments	3 Stars Strong Loose	6b
20	Anglada Gallego E4. Another old route that never gets done now, climbing the main face between the two huge caves. It has some suspect rock and...	1 Stars Loose	6c
21	Mistela E4. A pair of spectacular, fully-bolted pitches high on the crag are reached by a lengthy approach on more traditional...	2 Stars Loose	6c
22	Mare Nostrum A majestic new line, generously bolted and covering spectacular ground. Consistent bolts and belays make the line easy to...	3 Stars	7a+
23	Nueva Dimensión This amazing route takes a line up the awe-inspiring right-hand side of the vast South Face of the Peñón. After a very hard... 7 user comments	3 Stars Loose	7b

The South Face

Access Issues for Costa Blanca

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