South Face

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
20 mins
Uphill

The vast south face is where the most interest is for climbers. On its left-hand side is a prominent and impressive pillar of rock which is separated from the main face by a wide open corner. This corner is where the popular Vía Valencianos weaves its intricate line.
One of the most prominent features of the South Face is the tall slim tower which forms a long corner on its right side - Diedro UBSA. On the front of the tower are a couple of fine, fully-bolted routes which give a great day out for those who demand a bit more from their clip-ups.
Right of the pillar of Diedro UBSA a vast orange wall opens out with some huge caves high up. The lines on this section are all mountaineering-type routes and are bigger undertakings than their neighbours to the left. Most have some loose rock and many teams will require a full day with an early start to complete. It is also worth considering carrying water plus twin 50m ropes in the event that you have to abseil off.
Although there are some fully bolted pitches a small rack is required for most of these routes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Same
E1. Tackles the buttress below the ridge of the Valencianos slab. The climbing is good and the tube is unique, but the route is...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Loose
6a
2
Vía Valencianos Top 50
VS. This famous route is too unbalanced and scrappy to be a real classic, but it is popular and takes an easy line up this...
29 user comments
 
2 Stars
Loose
5c
3
Direct de UBSA
E1. An interesting variation on Vía Valencianos.1) 4, 38m. Follow the first pitch of Valencianos, but move left to a bolt...
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
6a
4
Polvos mágicos
E1. A neat direct version of Valencianos with a great line. Escape onto Valencianos is an option at several points. Take a...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Loose
6a+
5
Sensacion de vivir
A worthwhile route up the left-hand side of the Valencianos slab. Take a small rack of wires for the start.1) and 2) 6a,...
 
1 Stars
Loose
6b+
6
Virginia Díez
A short, bolted and worthwhile direct finish to Polvos mágicos.1) to 4) 6a+, 110m. As for Polvos mágicos.5) 5, 25m....
 
1 Stars
Loose
6b
7
Pilar López de Sancho
A spectacular finale up the great tower which hangs over the Vía Valencianos slab. It shares a start with Polvos mágicos...
 
2 Stars
6c
8
Piratas
HVS. One of the original lines on the wall. It has good climbing, but sees few ascents and has some loose rock. Take a...
 
1 Stars
Loose
5c
9
Los miserables
A good finale, though all the rambling to get to it is a pain. A better alternative is to use pitches 3 and 4 of Pilar López de...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6c+
10
Costa Blanca Top 50
A brilliant route which is one of the best in the area. The climbing is superb and independent, and the finish is breathtaking....
12 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c+
11
Costa Miserables
A brilliant combination which avoids the hard last pitch of Costa Blanca by traversing the ledge of Diedro UBSA to join and...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
12
Puto paseo ecológico
A seven-pitch classic with atmospheric and intimidating climbing. Start midway between Costa Blanca and Diedro UBSA, under the...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
7a
13
Me estoy quedando sin yemas
There is another line of bolts on the right-hand side of the pillar.1) 6a/A0, 30m. Aid the short leaning wall to...
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
14
Diedro UBSA Top 50
HVS. A classic expedition which takes the groove to a belay behind the pinnacle and then continues to reach the large cave high...
27 user comments
 
3 Stars
Loose
5c
15
El navegante
A magnificent route which is of the same calibre as Costa Blanca, or even better, some say. It follows a very steep and direct...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Loose
7a
16
Manuel
A long route with a fine first pitch but overshadowed by its neighbours above that. The upper sections have little quality...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
6b
17
Manuel Pitch 1
A fine, steep and technical pitch that has just enough fixed gear to be considered a sport route.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
18
Línea Mágica
Another long modern route which gives superb climbing and positions. A small rack is needed for the section shared with...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
6c+
19
Vía Gómez-Cano
E3. A massive mountaineering classic which takes in some incredible rock at a reasonable grade. It follows a long sweeping...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Loose
6b
20
Anglada Gallego
E4. Another old route that never gets done now, climbing the main face between the two huge caves. It has some suspect rock and...
 
1 Stars
Loose
6c
21
Mistela
E4. A pair of spectacular, fully-bolted pitches high on the crag are reached by a lengthy approach on more traditional...
 
2 Stars
Loose
6c
22
Mare Nostrum
A majestic line, generously bolted and covering spectacular ground. Consistent bolts and belays make the line easy to follow....
 
3 Stars
Strong
7a+
23
Nueva Dimensión
This amazing route takes a line up the awe-inspiring right-hand side of the vast South Face of the Peñón. After a very hard...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Loose
7b