Pic Tor Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Level
Sheltered

The main wall is hidden in the trees next to the river.
Approach - From the large public parking (pay) just south of Matlock on the A6, walk back towards Matlock, and cross a large green bridge over the river. On the far side, turn left along the riverside path and continue for 150m. The crag is on the right just after the railway arch.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Permission
The flaky rust-coloured arete is fingery, technical and often dirty.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3
2
Sulphur City
Make fingery moves to a ledge - thread. More hard climbing above gains a shallow groove which leads steeply to the top.
 
Technical
E3
3
Big Pig
The big piggish groove is quite a struggle to a tree.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVS
4
The Impending Gleam
Climb a shallow groove and blunt arete right of Big Pig until forced left below the vegetation to the tree on Big Pig.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS
5
Burning Spear
The groove and crack right of the blunt rib leads pleasantly to a grotty exit. It is better to escape left as for the last...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS
6
Nosferatu
Climb cracks that lead up to a tree then move left onto the arete and climb this. A direct start up the lower arete is harder.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E2
7
Cistron
Climb the blocky crack to a prominent solid tree, then the thinner continuation crack that leads into a final easy groove.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
8
Silenus
Fine climbing, mildly bold but the holds and runners keep coming. Climb the bulge and steep slab to a small ledge then trend...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
E2
9
Erasmus
Climb the shallow groove into the centre of the face (thread) then head into the hanging white corner above. Follow this...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2
10
Stenosis
The blunt rib on pockets then trend right into Diagnosis. The upper section is becoming overgrown.
 E4
11
Diagnosis
Climb straight up the wall passing a thin undercut to reach ledges. Trend right to a bolt lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4
12
Neurosis
From a ledge, enter the shallow groove and climb this to a difficult exit. Finish as for Diagnosis.
 
1 Stars
E3
13
Prognosis
The other best route here. Climb the spidery cracks rightwards, passing the bulge (peg) on thin flaky holds. Continue up the...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
E2