Coyote Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< New Bridge Buttress  |  High Crag >

Trad
Sun and Shade
15 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

This tall wall features some impressive black groove-lines and a narrow buttress on its right-hand side. Most of the routes start indifferently but have very good second pitches, in great positions, high above the trees.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Catastrophe Grooves
A Wildcat classic taking the disjointed groove system. Harder than it used to be because of the polish.1) 4c, 18m. Climb...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS
2
White Room
A right-hand version of Catastrophe Grooves sees a lot less traffic.1) 4b, 20m. Climb a wide crack then the wall past...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
3
Lyon Route
Good but with a poorly-protected and polished crux.1) 4c, 20m. Climb cracks to a stance under the long groove.2) 5b,...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1
4
Coyote Buttress Top 50
Excellent and varied. Start at a groove left of a short pinnacle, or slightly higher on a ledge to do the route in 1...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS
5
Derek's Dilemma
1) 4b, 16m. Climb a groove right of the short blunt pinnacle, moving right to a stance on a detached ledge.2) 5a, 22m....
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
6
Broken Toe Groove
1) 4c, 16m. Climb a flaky groove left of the arete and the wide crack then a bulge to reach the ledge and stance on the...
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
7
Jackdaw Grooves
A popular and worthwhile introduction to the crag.1) 4b, 16m. Start at a long clean groove and climb this until a short...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS
8
Nine Lives Wall
5m right of Jackdaw Groove climb a shallow groove and the wall over a bulge to ledges and a possible stance on the left....
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
9
Catharsis Wall
1) 5a, 22m. Start at a white groove blocked by a large bulge. Climb the groove and traverse left to avoid the roof. From a...
3 user comments
 HVS
10
Cat's Eye
1) 4a, 22m. Climb cracks, 3m right of the white groove, to an overhang. Step left and follow a groove to a stance in the...
3 user comments
 S
11
Budweisser Effect
In the upper part of the cliff is a large deep groove left of a prominent pillar; start directly below this.1) 4c, 22m....
2 user comments
 HVS
12
McPlumb Wall
An interesting and satisfying route starting just left of the gully leading up into the recess of Cougar Cleft.1) 4b, 22m....
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
13
Cougar Cleft
The rather disgusting lower gully leads up to this pleasant chimney/crack feature suspended high above. The exit is fun.
 HS
14
Tiger Route 1
Two long and interesting pitches up the left edge of the buttress make this route worth doing. Some of the rock needs care....
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
VS
15
Cat Walk
The most popular route hereabouts. Climb the well-travelled groove above the blocks to its end then follow a second groove to a...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS
16
Sourpuss
1) -, 15m. Climb up the initial groove of Cat Walk but exit left at its end and traverse to a stance at the left end of ledges...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS
17
Pupilla
1) -, 15m. Start up the initial groove of Cat Walk but exit left at its end and belay at the right-hand end of the...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS