Coyote Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< New Bridge Buttress  |  Cat Walk >

Trad
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

This tall wall features some impressive black groove-lines and a narrow buttress on its right-hand side. Most of the routes start indifferently but have very good second pitches, in great positions, high above the trees.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Catastrophe Grooves
A Wildcat classic taking the disjointed groove system. Harder than it used to be because of the polish.1) 4c, 18m. Climb...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
2
White Room
A right-hand version of Catastrophe Grooves sees a lot less traffic.1) 4b, 20m. Climb a wide crack then the wall past...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
3
Lyon Route
Good but with a poorly-protected and polished crux.1) 4c, 20m. Climb cracks to a stance under the long groove.2) 5b,...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
4
Coyote Buttress
Excellent and varied. Start at a groove left of a short pinnacle, or slightly higher on a ledge to do the route in 1...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
5
Derek's Dilemma
1) 4b, 16m. Climb a groove right of the short blunt pinnacle, moving right to a stance on a detached ledge.2) 5a, 22m....
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
6
Broken Toe Groove
1) 4c, 16m. Climb a flaky groove left of the arete and the wide crack then a bulge to reach the ledge and stance on the...
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
7
Jackdaw Grooves
A popular and worthwhile introduction to the crag.1) 4b, 16m. Start at a long clean groove and climb this until a short...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
8
Nine Lives Wall
5m right of Jackdaw Groove climb a shallow groove and the wall over a bulge to ledges and a possible stance on the left....
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
9
Catharsis Wall
1) 5a, 22m. Start at a white groove blocked by a large bulge. Climb the groove and traverse left to avoid the roof. From a...
3 user comments
 HVS 5a
10
Cat's Eye
1) 4a, 22m. Climb cracks, 3m right of the white groove, to an overhang. Step left and follow a groove to a stance in the...
3 user comments
 S 4a
11
Budweisser Effect
In the upper part of the cliff is a large deep groove left of a prominent pillar; start directly below this.1) 4c, 22m....
2 user comments
 HVS 4c
12
McPlumb Wall
An interesting and satisfying route starting just left of the gully leading up into the recess of Cougar Cleft.1) 4b, 22m....
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 4c
13
Cougar Cleft
The rather disgusting lower gully leads up to this pleasant chimney/crack feature suspended high above. The exit is fun.
 HS 4a
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For WILDCAT

    Golden Yardstick
    "A truly excellent second pitch. Fingery, exposed and a little committing (but no..." 03/Aug top50

    Pupilla
    "Fantastic climbing over the bulging wall which is easier than it looks. Great ro..." 16/Jul

    McPlumb Wall
    "A worthwhile climb despite an unwelcoming approach and an unhealthy finish. The ..." 31/Mar

    Sphynx
    "Completely overgrown in june 2013" 01/Jul

    Climacteric
    "I think RW is wrong about the grade in both respects (although not about the foo..." 22/May

    White Room
    "The first pitch can be climbed more or less following the line shown in the new ..." 08/Aug

    Tiger Route 1
    "To do the 1st pitch at VS you need to traverse at low level below the reaching t..." 27/Jul

    Nine Lives Wall
    "Easy for 5a but the steep wall has a committing feel to it" 01/Nov

    Lynx
    "I'd swap the pitch grades around, first was 4a with spaced protection in places ..." 24/Aug

    Cataclysm
    "A great route with plenty of protection - the crux move is right at the top - th..." 20/Aug top50

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