Coyote Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

This tall wall features some impressive black groove-lines and a narrow buttress on its right-hand side. Most of the routes start indifferently but have very good second pitches, in great positions, high above the trees. Guidebook page 366.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Catastrophe Grooves
A Wildcat classic taking the disjointed groove system. Harder than it used to be because of the polish.1) 4c, 18m. Climb...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
2
White Room
A right-hand version of Catastrophe Grooves sees a lot less traffic.1) 4b, 20m. Climb a wide crack then the wall past...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
3
Lyon Route
Good but with a poorly-protected and polished crux.1) 4c, 20m. Climb cracks to a stance under the long groove.2) 5b,...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
4
Coyote Buttress
Excellent and varied. Start at a groove left of a short pinnacle, or slightly higher on a ledge to do the route in 1...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
5
Derek's Dilemma
1) 4b, 16m. Climb a groove right of the short blunt pinnacle, moving right to a stance on a detached ledge.2) 5a, 22m....
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
6
Broken Toe Groove
1) 4c, 16m. Climb a flaky groove left of the arete and the wide crack then a bulge to reach the ledge and stance on the...
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
7
Jackdaw Grooves
A popular and worthwhile introduction to the crag.1) 4b, 16m. Start at a long clean groove and climb this until a short...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
8
Nine Lives Wall
5m right of Jackdaw Groove climb a shallow groove and the wall over a bulge to ledges and a possible stance on the left....
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
9
Catharsis Wall
1) 5a, 22m. Start at a white groove blocked by a large bulge. Climb the groove and traverse left to avoid the roof. From a...
3 user comments
 HVS 5a
10
Cat's Eye
1) 4a, 22m. Climb cracks, 3m right of the white groove, to an overhang. Step left and follow a groove to a stance in the...
3 user comments
 S 4a
11
Budweisser Effect
In the upper part of the cliff is a large deep groove left of a prominent pillar; start directly below this.1) 4c, 22m....
2 user comments
 HVS 4c
12
McPlumb Wall
An interesting and satisfying route starting just left of the gully leading up into the recess of Cougar Cleft.1) 4b, 22m....
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 4c
13
Cougar Cleft
The rather disgusting lower gully leads up to this pleasant chimney/crack feature suspended high above. The exit is fun.
 HS 4a
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  • Latest Comments

    For WILDCAT

    Pupilla
    "Fantastic climbing over the bulging wall which is easier than it looks. Great ro..." 16/Jul

    McPlumb Wall
    "A worthwhile climb despite an unwelcoming approach and an unhealthy finish. The ..." 31/Mar

    Sphynx
    "Completely overgrown in june 2013" 01/Jul

    Climacteric
    "I think RW is wrong about the grade in both respects (although not about the foo..." 22/May

    White Room
    "The first pitch can be climbed more or less following the line shown in the new ..." 08/Aug

    Tiger Route 1
    "To do the 1st pitch at VS you need to traverse at low level below the reaching t..." 27/Jul

    Nine Lives Wall
    "Easy for 5a but the steep wall has a committing feel to it" 01/Nov

    Lynx
    "I'd swap the pitch grades around, first was 4a with spaced protection in places ..." 24/Aug

    Cataclysm
    "A great route with plenty of protection - the crux move is right at the top - th..." 20/Aug top50

    Jackdaw Grooves
    "Some wobbly holds on first pitch but great climbing and second pitch feels very ..." 11/Jul

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