Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
15 minsThis tall wall features some impressive black groove-lines and a narrow buttress on its right-hand side. Most of the routes start indifferently but have very good second pitches, in great positions, high above the trees. Guidebook page 366.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Catastrophe Grooves A Wildcat classic taking the disjointed groove system. Harder than it used to be because of the polish.1) 4c, 18m. Climb... 5 user comments | 2 Stars | HVS 5a |
2 |
White Room A right-hand version of Catastrophe Grooves sees a lot less traffic.1) 4b, 20m. Climb a wide crack then the wall past... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
3 |
Lyon Route Good but with a poorly-protected and polished crux.1) 4c, 20m. Climb cracks to a stance under the long groove.2) 5b,... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E1 5b |
4 |
Coyote Buttress Excellent and varied. Start at a groove left of a short pinnacle, or slightly higher on a ledge to do the route in 1... 4 user comments | 2 Stars | HVS 5a |
5 |
Derek's Dilemma 1) 4b, 16m. Climb a groove right of the short blunt pinnacle, moving right to a stance on a detached ledge.2) 5a, 22m.... 6 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 5a |
6 |
Broken Toe Groove 1) 4c, 16m. Climb a flaky groove left of the arete and the wide crack then a bulge to reach the ledge and stance on the... 7 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
7 |
Jackdaw Grooves A popular and worthwhile introduction to the crag.1) 4b, 16m. Start at a long clean groove and climb this until a short... 7 user comments | 2 Stars | VS 4b |
8 |
Nine Lives Wall 5m right of Jackdaw Groove climb a shallow groove and the wall over a bulge to ledges and a possible stance on the left.... 5 user comments | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
9 |
Catharsis Wall 1) 5a, 22m. Start at a white groove blocked by a large bulge. Climb the groove and traverse left to avoid the roof. From a... 3 user comments | HVS 5a | |
10 |
Cat's Eye 1) 4a, 22m. Climb cracks, 3m right of the white groove, to an overhang. Step left and follow a groove to a stance in the... 3 user comments | S 4a | |
11 |
Budweisser Effect In the upper part of the cliff is a large deep groove left of a prominent pillar; start directly below this.1) 4c, 22m.... 2 user comments | HVS 4c | |
12 |
McPlumb Wall An interesting and satisfying route starting just left of the gully leading up into the recess of Cougar Cleft.1) 4b, 22m.... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | HVS 4c |
13 |
Cougar Cleft The rather disgusting lower gully leads up to this pleasant chimney/crack feature suspended high above. The exit is fun. | HS 4a | |
