Yarncliffe Routes

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Entering the quarry, Ant’s Slab is the first section you come to then the tall fin of Cardinal’s Arete and another clean, cracked slab - Cardinal’s Slab. Beyond this the routes are spread out, many are green and overgrown although there is an occasional gem hidden amongst the shrubbery. Of particular interest to the connoisseur are the fine crack of Zapple and the magnificent arete of Crème de la Crème. These routes are best approached by walking up the track, past a clearing and through the trees, to the far bay of the quarry. Guidebook page 262.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Ant's Arete
16m. The stepped left-hand arete of the quarry is very pleasant, and, although mild, there is no protection until above the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4b
2
Aphid's Wall
16m. Slabby wall climbing to the right of the arete. Poorly protected and the small holds have become very rounded.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E1 5a
3
Latecomer
16m. The long, thin crack is reached from the right and climbed passing a couple of angular niches. Finish out to the left or...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
4
Solider Ant
16m. Climb the narrow wall between the two cracks without recourse to side-runners - sketchy, slippery and unprotected! With...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
5
Ant's Crack
16m. The wide crack in the centre of the slab is a good, if somewhat sandy, introduction to jamming.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
6
Ant's Wall
18m. The steep slab and thin crack just right have good holds and runners. Possibly the best route on the slab.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HS 4a
7
Formica Slab
18m. More steep slab climbing to the left of the parallel cracks. Unprotected, just for a change.
2 user comments
 
Fluttery
HVS 4c
8
Angular Climb
18m. The parallel cracks in the right-hand side of the slab, starting up the right-hand one then stepping left. Originally it...
 HVD
9
Hidden Crack
24m. The thin diagonal crack in the left-hand side wall runs out to the arete. Step back left along a ledge to find the hidden...
 VS 5a
10
Cardinal's Arete
20m. This undercut arete has a steep start and is pleasant above. The delicate finale can be avoided on the right.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
VS 4c
11
Outdoor Centre Route
20m. The broken cracks are popular. Things ease with height.
 HVD
12
Cardinal's Slab
20m. A long, thin crack up the left-hand edge of the slab, gives a pleasant and well protected pitch.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
13
Hoey's Innominate
20m. This rather sketchy slab can be green and has the odd creaky hold.
 
Fluttery
HVS 4c
14
Cardinal's Crack
20m. A wide crack in the slab leads to a massive tree and blocky finish. It is pleasant enough if you enjoy fist jamming.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4b
15
Chalked Up
20m. A shallow groove and hairline crack in the centre of the next slab are easiest, as might be expected, when chalked up.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5a
16
Sulu
20m. The thin crack just left of the arete is steep as far as a good ledge. Continue on the left until forced right to finish.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
VS 5a
17
Rhythm of Cruelty
20m. Pushy climbing up the right-hand side of the steep arete, as far as the ledge. Finish more easily.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5b
18
Capital Cracks
20m. A crack 2m right of the arete leads to a ledge. Step right and follow the continuation crack to the top.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
19
Pedestal Arete
22m. Mild at the grade and with some good positions. Follow a series of giant steps out left to the arete. Finish as for Sulu.
 VS 4b
20
S.T.P.
14m. Follow the crack just left of the arete to a tree belay. Pleasant when clean, which sadly it usually isn't!
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
21
Creme de la Creme
16m. The magnificent and unmistakable central arete of the quarry still sees few ascents. One peg runner at half-height may be...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
22
THEM!
The right-hand side of the arete as far as the ledge.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
V11 8A
23
Fall Pipe
16m. Across the bay is the finest wall in the quarry, split on the left by a long crack which gives good jamming and bridging...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
24
Zapple Left-hand
20m. The right-trending crack joins Zapple above its crux lower section giving easier access to the fine climbing above.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
25
Zapple
20m. The superb finger and hand-crack that splits the centre of the wall is an essential Peak tick! The knuckle-cracking start...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
26
Trised Crack
15m. The flaky crack to the right gives slippery laybacking and is in need of a little T.L.C. before it vanishes for ever!
 VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For YARNCLIFFE

    Zapple
    "Fantastic climbing, start is not too bad for 5b." 25/Sep

    Latecomer
    "Enjoyed the route but there were two loose rocks along the way." 21/May

    Cardinal's Arete
    "The blocks in the middle part of this route are a little loose take care if pull..." 12/Apr

    Sulu
    "Climbed this on Sunday while avoiding the gales. A lovely delicate climb - no tr..." 23/Jun

    Cardinal's Slab
    "good route. Block at the bottom is very loose. Moved a couple of inches when I..." 22/Jun

    Zapple Left-hand
    "Excellent route, though can't quite see it as either HVS or 5a - I'd have said V..." 19/May

    Latecomer
    "worth doing the direct start" 13/May

    Cardinal's Slab
    "Big loose block near the start." 26/Apr

    Cardinal's Arete
    "ants ants ants ants ants ants ants!!!!!" 10/Aug

    Formica Slab
    "really good route, depending on how you access the slab pro can be placed before..." 21/Jun

    Ant's Crack
    "Would be a VD if it wasn't for the huge amount of dirt on the route, made it see..." 31/May

    Cardinal's Arete
    "Easy for VS even with the direct finish, more like HS 4c." 18/Apr

    Cardinal's Slab
    "Would also say 5a. Protection took a little bit of thought, especially low down,..." 19/Sep

    Cardinal's Arete
    "The start isn't that hard (certainly not 5a), wall-bred climbers should romp up ..." 25/Jul

    Capital Cracks
    "Slightly damp and greasy when we tried this... found the start impossible! Very ..." 07/Jun

    Cardinal's Crack
    "Don't be put off if you and jamming don't see eye to eye. Use the crack for pro...." 09/May

    Cardinal's Crack
    "People with big fists will find it a path. People with smaller fists will think..." 17/Jan

    Cardinal's Crack
    "Like it says in the guide...if you like fist jamming its a very enjoyable. Iam s..." 26/Sep

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