Adjacent Areas
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Sun from mid-morning
Roadside
0 minsEntering the quarry, Ant’s Slab is the first section you come to then the tall fin of Cardinal’s Arete and another clean, cracked slab - Cardinal’s Slab. Beyond this the routes are spread out, many are green and overgrown although there is an occasional gem hidden amongst the shrubbery. Of particular interest to the connoisseur are the fine crack of Zapple and the magnificent arete of Crème de la Crème. These routes are best approached by walking up the track, past a clearing and through the trees, to the far bay of the quarry. Guidebook page 262.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Ant's Arete 16m. The stepped left-hand arete of the quarry is very pleasant, and, although mild, there is no protection until above the... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | VS 4b |
2 |
Aphid's Wall 16m. Slabby wall climbing to the right of the arete. Poorly protected and the small holds have become very rounded. | 1 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | E1 5a |
3 |
Latecomer 16m. The long, thin crack is reached from the right and climbed passing a couple of angular niches. Finish out to the left or... 6 user comments | 1 Stars | HS 4b |
4 |
Solider Ant 16m. Climb the narrow wall between the two cracks without recourse to side-runners - sketchy, slippery and unprotected! With... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Fluttery | E3 5c |
5 |
Ant's Crack 16m. The wide crack in the centre of the slab is a good, if somewhat sandy, introduction to jamming. 4 user comments | 1 Stars | S 4a |
6 |
Ant's Wall 18m. The steep slab and thin crack just right have good holds and runners. Possibly the best route on the slab. 8 user comments | 1 Stars Crimpy | HS 4a |
7 |
Formica Slab 18m. More steep slab climbing to the left of the parallel cracks. Unprotected, just for a change. 2 user comments | Fluttery | HVS 4c |
8 |
Angular Climb 18m. The parallel cracks in the right-hand side of the slab, starting up the right-hand one then stepping left. Originally it... | HVD | |
9 |
Hidden Crack 24m. The thin diagonal crack in the left-hand side wall runs out to the arete. Step back left along a ledge to find the hidden... | VS 5a | |
10 |
Cardinal's Arete 20m. This undercut arete has a steep start and is pleasant above. The delicate finale can be avoided on the right. 8 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | VS 4c |
11 |
Outdoor Centre Route 20m. The broken cracks are popular. Things ease with height. | HVD | |
12 |
Cardinal's Slab 20m. A long, thin crack up the left-hand edge of the slab, gives a pleasant and well protected pitch. 7 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | VS 5a |
13 |
Hoey's Innominate 20m. This rather sketchy slab can be green and has the odd creaky hold. | Fluttery | HVS 4c |
14 |
Cardinal's Crack 20m. A wide crack in the slab leads to a massive tree and blocky finish. It is pleasant enough if you enjoy fist jamming. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4b |
15 |
Chalked Up 20m. A shallow groove and hairline crack in the centre of the next slab are easiest, as might be expected, when chalked up. | 1 Stars Fluttery | E1 5a |
16 |
Sulu 20m. The thin crack just left of the arete is steep as far as a good ledge. Continue on the left until forced right to finish. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Crimpy | VS 5a |
17 |
Rhythm of Cruelty 20m. Pushy climbing up the right-hand side of the steep arete, as far as the ledge. Finish more easily. | 1 Stars Fluttery | E3 5b |
18 |
Capital Cracks 20m. A crack 2m right of the arete leads to a ledge. Step right and follow the continuation crack to the top. 4 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
19 |
Pedestal Arete 22m. Mild at the grade and with some good positions. Follow a series of giant steps out left to the arete. Finish as for Sulu. | VS 4b | |
20 |
S.T.P. 14m. Follow the crack just left of the arete to a tree belay. Pleasant when clean, which sadly it usually isn't! 1 user comment | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
21 |
Creme de la Creme 16m. The magnificent and unmistakable central arete of the quarry still sees few ascents. One peg runner at half-height may be... | 3 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6b |
22 |
THEM! The right-hand side of the arete as far as the ledge. | 1 Stars Technical Strong | V11 7a |
23 |
Fall Pipe 16m. Across the bay is the finest wall in the quarry, split on the left by a long crack which gives good jamming and bridging... | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
24 |
Zapple Left-hand 20m. The right-trending crack joins Zapple above its crux lower section giving easier access to the fine climbing above. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
25 |
Zapple 20m. The superb finger and hand-crack that splits the centre of the wall is an essential Peak tick! The knuckle-cracking start... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5b |
26 |
Trised Crack 15m. The flaky crack to the right gives slippery laybacking and is in need of a little T.L.C. before it vanishes for ever! | VS 4c | |