Lime Street Area

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Level
Sheltered
Restricted Access

The left side of Willersley has some of the best lines around and the trees here are less obtrusive. Most of the routes are single pitches but some venture onto the upper section of the cliff and top-out via easy loose groove-lines. Many of the routes have become very polished.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Gripper
Do battle with the polished roof-crack. Fortunately it relents somewhat above the roof.
 
Technical
Strong
E1
2
Grasper
The wide crack splitting the roofs is a character-building struggle from start to finish. A bit of grit thuggery helps.
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS
3
Great Corner
The glossed corner crack leads right then back left to a good stance and belay below the roofs. Ever-dry. Abseil descent.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
4
Hangover
A fighting extension to the previous three routes. Climb the crack in the roof and pull into an easier groove to an overgrown...
 
Strong
E3
5
Zombie
Follow the pocketed seam then tackle the crack-line which is steep, sustained and a bit slippery all the way to a belay above....
 
2 Stars
E2
6
Mighty Like a Rose
A bold eliminate up the blank wall right of Zombie. The slab at the start is the crux, though the best climbing is higher up.
 E5
7
Growl Tiger's Last Stand
Low in the grade and excellent. Start up the shallow awkward left-trending groove in the blunt arete to the overhang. Move...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
E2
8
Haste, Not Tomato Paste
Climb Growl Tiger's left-slanting groove in the blunt rib to the overhang. Pass the left edge of the roof with difficulty (and...
1 user comment
 E5
9
God
A good strenuous pitch, well protected too. Start up the leaning flake system then pull out left on to the wall and up to a...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1
10
Sun Chariot
Start between Lime Street and God with the crux moving rightwards through the overlap (a poor microwire). Fine climbing above,...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E7
11
Crown of Thorns
Make a detour into Lime Street Direct for a few moves from Sun Chariot, then come back left.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4
12
Lime Street Direct
One of the best routes here - steep, sustained (and polished).1) 5c, 25m. Climb a slanting groove in the arete to a ledge....
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
E1
13
Lone Tree Edge
A fine sustained pitch following the long crack-line to the right of the arete, to the Lime Street stance. The crux section is...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
E1
14
Lone Tree Groove
1) 5a, 28m. A fine and popular climb up the big groove with its solitary tree. Take care with some loose blocks on this pitch....
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Loose
HVS
15
Sycamore Flake Direct
A good line though with a finish that is a bit of a spoiler.1) 5b, 18m. Climb a thin crack past the edge of an overlap...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
HVS
16
Tommy Gun
Climb the crack in the front of the flake then the white wall keeping to the left of the bulges until a finish through a...
 E3
17
London's Burning
Follow the start of Tommy Gun but trend right up the wall above the big overhang, passing a peg. Traverse right below the upper...
 
1 Stars
E5
18
Sycamore Flake
A good 1st pitch is spoilt by the grotty finish to the 2nd one.1) 4c, 20m. Swarm up onto the flake containing the large...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Loose
VS
19
White Riot/Whatta
A good sustained pitch up the right side of the wall - it has some fixed gear - almost a 7b sport route. Follow Surplomb then...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5
20
Immaculate Deception
35m. Climb the wall and small overlap to join and finish up, or down Sycamore Flake.
 
Technical
E2 6a
21
Surplomb
1) 4c, 24m. Climb up to the left side of the 'surplomb' and undercut right (occasional seepage) into cracks overlooking the...
 
1 Stars
VS
22
Babylon
A fine line and stout at the grade, with good climbing when dry and a nightmare when damp, as it usually is. Climb the groove...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Loose
HVS
23
Sparkle in the Rain
From 10m up Babylon, move out left on to the wall. Climb this, past a bolt, to a slab. The original route climbed the overhang...
 E5
24
Jericho Wall
Pretty overgrown now, this used to be an alternative to the crux section of Babylon. Follow Babylon and traverse left on a slab...
 VS