Adjacent Areas
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Trad
No sun
Level
5 minsRestricted Access
The left side of Willersley has some of the best lines around and the trees here are less obtrusive. Most of the routes are single pitches but some venture onto the upper section of the cliff and top-out via easy loose groove-lines. Many of the routes have become very polished. Guidebook page 374.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Gripper Do battle with the polished roof-crack. Fortunately it relents somewhat above the roof. | Technical Strong | E1 6a |
2 |
Grasper The wide crack splitting the roofs is a character-building struggle from start to finish. A bit of grit thuggery helps. | 1 Stars Strong | HVS 5b |
3 |
Great Corner The glossed corner crack leads right then back left to a good stance and belay below the roofs. Ever-dry. Abseil descent. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Rounded | VS 4c |
4 |
Hangover A fighting extension to the previous three routes. Climb the crack in the roof and pull into an easier groove to an overgrown... | Strong | E3 6b |
5 |
Zombie Follow the pocketed seam then tackle the crack-line which is steep, sustained and a bit slippery all the way to a belay above.... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E2 5b |
6 |
Mighty Like a Rose A bold eliminate up the blank wall right of Zombie. The slab at the start is the crux, though the best climbing is higher up. | Fluttery | E5 6a |
7 |
Growl Tiger's Last Stand Low in the grade and excellent. Start up the shallow awkward left-trending groove in the blunt arete to the overhang. Move... | 2 Stars Strong | E2 5c |
8 |
Haste, Not Tomato Paste Climb Growl Tiger's left-slanting groove in the blunt rib to the overhang. Pass the left edge of the roof with difficulty (and... 1 user comment | Fluttery | E5 6a |
9 |
God A good strenuous pitch, well protected too. Start up the leaning flake system then pull out left on to the wall and up to a... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
10 |
Sun Chariot Start between Lime Street and God with the crux moving rightwards through the overlap (a poor microwire). Fine climbing above,... | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E7 6b |
11 |
Lime Street Direct One of the best routes here - steep, sustained (and polished).1) 5c, 25m. Climb a slanting groove in the arete to a ledge.... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E1 5c |
12 |
Crown of Thorns 30m. The tall rib once gave a devious trad route which then became defunct when a huge flake came off it. It was reclimbed as... 3 user comments | E4 6b | |
13 |
Lone Tree Edge A fine sustained pitch following the long crack-line to the right of the arete, to the Lime Street stance. The crux section is... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy Graunchy | E1 5b |
14 |
Lone Tree Groove 1) 5a, 28m. A fine and popular climb up the big groove with its solitary tree. Take care with some loose blocks on this pitch.... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy Loose | HVS 5a |
15 |
Sycamore Flake Direct A good line though with a finish that is a bit of a spoiler.1) 5b, 18m. Climb a thin crack past the edge of an overlap then... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Loose | HVS 5b |
16 |
Tommy Gun Climb the crack in the front of the flake then the white wall keeping to the left of the bulges until a finish through a... | E3 5c | |
17 |
London's Burning Follow the start of Tommy Gun but trend right up the wall above the big overhang, passing a peg. Traverse right below the upper... | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E5 6a |
18 |
Sycamore Flake A good 1st pitch is spoilt by the grotty finish to the 2nd one.1) 4c, 20m. Swarm up onto the flake containing the large... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Loose | VS 4c |
19 |
White Riot/Whatta A good sustained pitch up the right side of the wall - it has some fixed gear - almost a 7b sport route. Follow Surplomb then... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E5 6b |
20 |
Immaculate Deception 35m. Climb the wall and small overlap to join and finish up, or down Sycamore Flake. | Technical | E2 6a |
21 |
Surplomb 1) 4c, 24m. Climb up to the left side of the 'surplomb' and undercut right (occasional seepage) into cracks overlooking the... | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
22 |
Babylon A fine line and stout at the grade, with good climbing when dry and a nightmare when damp, as it usually is. Climb the groove... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Loose | HVS 5b |
23 |
Sparkle in the Rain From 10m up Babylon, move out left on to the wall. Climb this, past a bolt, to a slab. The original route climbed the overhang... | Fluttery | E5 6a |
24 |
Jericho Wall Pretty overgrown now, this used to be an alternative to the crux section of Babylon. Follow Babylon and traverse left on a slab... | VS 4c | |
