Lime Street Area

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Trad
No sun
Level
5 mins
Sheltered
Restricted Access

The left side of Willersley has some of the best lines around and the trees here are less obtrusive. Most of the routes are single pitches but some venture onto the upper section of the cliff and top-out via easy loose groove-lines. Many of the routes have become very polished. Guidebook page 374.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Gripper
Do battle with the polished roof-crack. Fortunately it relents somewhat above the roof.
 
Technical
Strong
E1 6a
2
Grasper
The wide crack splitting the roofs is a character-building struggle from start to finish. A bit of grit thuggery helps.
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS 5b
3
Great Corner
The glossed corner crack leads right then back left to a good stance and belay below the roofs. Ever-dry. Abseil descent.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
VS 4c
4
Hangover
A fighting extension to the previous three routes. Climb the crack in the roof and pull into an easier groove to an overgrown...
 
Strong
E3 6b
5
Zombie
Follow the pocketed seam then tackle the crack-line which is steep, sustained and a bit slippery all the way to a belay above....
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
6
Mighty Like a Rose
A bold eliminate up the blank wall right of Zombie. The slab at the start is the crux, though the best climbing is higher up.
 
Fluttery
E5 6a
7
Growl Tiger's Last Stand
Low in the grade and excellent. Start up the shallow awkward left-trending groove in the blunt arete to the overhang. Move...
 
2 Stars
Strong
E2 5c
8
Haste, Not Tomato Paste
Climb Growl Tiger's left-slanting groove in the blunt rib to the overhang. Pass the left edge of the roof with difficulty (and...
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
E5 6a
9
God
A good strenuous pitch, well protected too. Start up the leaning flake system then pull out left on to the wall and up to a...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
10
Sun Chariot
Start between Lime Street and God with the crux moving rightwards through the overlap (a poor microwire). Fine climbing above,...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E7 6b
11
Lime Street Direct
One of the best routes here - steep, sustained (and polished).1) 5c, 25m. Climb a slanting groove in the arete to a ledge....
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5c
12
Crown of Thorns
30m. The tall rib once gave a devious trad route which then became defunct when a huge flake came off it. It was reclimbed as...
3 user comments
 E4 6b
13
Lone Tree Edge
A fine sustained pitch following the long crack-line to the right of the arete, to the Lime Street stance. The crux section is...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
E1 5b
14
Lone Tree Groove
1) 5a, 28m. A fine and popular climb up the big groove with its solitary tree. Take care with some loose blocks on this pitch....
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
HVS 5a
15
Sycamore Flake Direct
A good line though with a finish that is a bit of a spoiler.1) 5b, 18m. Climb a thin crack past the edge of an overlap then...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
HVS 5b
16
Tommy Gun
Climb the crack in the front of the flake then the white wall keeping to the left of the bulges until a finish through a...
 E3 5c
17
London's Burning
Follow the start of Tommy Gun but trend right up the wall above the big overhang, passing a peg. Traverse right below the upper...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E5 6a
18
Sycamore Flake
A good 1st pitch is spoilt by the grotty finish to the 2nd one.1) 4c, 20m. Swarm up onto the flake containing the large...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Loose
VS 4c
19
White Riot/Whatta
A good sustained pitch up the right side of the wall - it has some fixed gear - almost a 7b sport route. Follow Surplomb then...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5 6b
20
Immaculate Deception
35m. Climb the wall and small overlap to join and finish up, or down Sycamore Flake.
 
Technical
E2 6a
21
Surplomb
1) 4c, 24m. Climb up to the left side of the 'surplomb' and undercut right (occasional seepage) into cracks overlooking the...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
22
Babylon
A fine line and stout at the grade, with good climbing when dry and a nightmare when damp, as it usually is. Climb the groove...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Loose
HVS 5b
23
Sparkle in the Rain
From 10m up Babylon, move out left on to the wall. Climb this, past a bolt, to a slab. The original route climbed the overhang...
 
Fluttery
E5 6a
24
Jericho Wall
Pretty overgrown now, this used to be an alternative to the crux section of Babylon. Follow Babylon and traverse left on a slab...
 VS 4c
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  • Latest Comments

    For WILLERSLEY

    Excavator
    "This route should lose its 'loose' icon - it was a bit dirty, but not unstable. ..." 17/Jul

    Gangue Grooves
    "Not sure about the "continuous 5a-ish climbing the whole way" (and cer..." 15/Jul top50

    Pleasure Dome
    "I wonder how many people follow the correct line on p1 of this route nowadays? T..." 11/Jul

    Lime Street Direct
    "There is now a peg just below the groove which does help somewhat though you do ..." 10/Sep

    Guillotine
    "The route shown on the topo in the new Rockfax actually goes up the new route Ch..." 23/Aug

    Blessed are the Weak
    "one of the best 7a+'s in the peak when clean." 29/Mar

    Boomerang
    "Soloed this,rather scary, very polished indeed, sort of enjoyable.Top end for it..." 15/Dec

    Crown of Thorns
    "This is definitely not a defunct route. Whenever I have done it I have started u..." 11/Jul

    Sycamore Flake
    "The start of the rising traverse from the groove has some very loose rock. Take ..." 12/Jun

    Halo Left-hand
    "Better than it looks" 09/Jun

    Babylon
    "There does appear to have been a recent rockfall just to the right ... it's uncl..." 15/May

    Overhanging Wall
    "Tricky passing the lump, and the gear is hard to find. Certainly worth HVS 5a." 11/Apr

    Lone Tree Edge
    "The offwidth section is holdless and overhanging with hard to place gear unless ..." 05/Sep

    Babylon
    "Climbed on 21/6/10 Was dry apart from a small amount of dampness in lower crack..." 23/Jun

    Boomerang
    "An atrocity. Where do I start? Unpleasant slippery crux protected by crucial d..." 05/Jun

    Sisyphus
    "I think the description and line marked in rockfax is wrong. As far as I can see..." 15/Apr

    Guts Ache Groove
    "An underrated gem, sustained & an excellent line. Better than Garotter &..." 27/Mar

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