Pot Hole Wall Area

Adjacent Areas
< Lime Street Area  |  Boomerang Area >

Trad
No sun
5 mins
Level
Sheltered
Restricted Access

The central section of the cliff has a fine set of powerful groove-lines, and some open faces. Once these were regarded as equal to the best routes in Wales - well they may not be quite that good - but most are still worth doing. Several routes manage to find their way through unlikely terrain at reasonable grades, without getting involved with anything too dramatic.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Last Testament
The leaning groove left of a large Y-trunked tree is steep and sustained. Pass the bulge (crux - old peg) for more of the same...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
2
Wind of Change
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
3
Guts Ache Groove
The slanting groove behind the tree is climbed in its entirety. It gives a fine sustained pitch which is a little easier than...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
4
Guillotine
Climb the steep slanting crack in the left wall of the slabby groove - knobbly. Where it ends, step left into the continuation...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
HVS 5a
5
Garroter
One of the original classics of the crag is now very polished but, if you can handle that, the climbing is superbly...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
VS 4c
6
Halo Left-hand
A sadly neglected line through the left edge of the bulges that cross the wall. Follow the groove trending right to the bulges...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
7
Bagatelle
An interesting diagonal expedition.1) 5a, 40m. Follow Halo Left-hand to the bulges then traverse right under the roofs...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
8
Halo Right-hand
Follow Halo Left-hand to the bulges then traverse 6m right as for Bagatelle before pulling steeply leftwards to enter the upper...
 HVS 5b
9
Tramp
Climb up into the hanging groove and exit steeply from this to reach the traverse on Bagatelle. Reach the short diagonal crack...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
10
Pleasure Dome
1) 5c, 24m. Climb the crack steeply through the bulges then follow the right-trending groove to the small but comfortable...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E2 5c
11
Excavator
Not as loose as the name suggests, though it once was.Start up the steep pocketed slab and trend right to enter the black...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Loose
HVS 4c
12
Pothole Wall Top 50
A fine and popular route with just a couple of hard moves which are well protected by fixed gear. The 1st pitch feels quite...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
13
Gangue Grooves Top 50
Excellent; sustained and varied despite its ugly appearance. Start right of the corner of Pothole Wall and trend right then...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
HVS 5b
14
Euromess
1) 5a, 18m. Climb straight up the pocketed wall to the hanging lump and pull right past this before sprinting up a short groove...
 
Pumpy
E1 5b
15
Overhanging Wall
1) 5a, 20m. Climb to a small hanging lump from the right and turn this and the next bulge continuing left. Head back rightwards...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
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  • Latest Comments

    For WILLERSLEY

    God
    "Great route. Pumpy as hell though. Great protection and never too serious but ke..." 03/Aug

    Last Testament
    "Given a good clean last week. A Willersley favourite now back on the menu...." 21/Jul

    Excavator
    "This route should lose its 'loose' icon - it was a bit dirty, but not unstable. ..." 17/Jul

    Gangue Grooves
    "Not sure about the "continuous 5a-ish climbing the whole way" (and cer..." 15/Jul top50

    Pleasure Dome
    "I wonder how many people follow the correct line on p1 of this route nowadays? T..." 11/Jul

    Lime Street Direct
    "There is now a peg just below the groove which does help somewhat though you do ..." 10/Sep

    Guillotine
    "The route shown on the topo in the new Rockfax actually goes up the new route Ch..." 23/Aug

    Blessed are the Weak
    "one of the best 7a+'s in the peak when clean." 29/Mar

    Boomerang
    "Soloed this,rather scary, very polished indeed, sort of enjoyable.Top end for it..." 15/Dec

    Crown of Thorns
    "This is definitely not a defunct route. Whenever I have done it I have started u..." 11/Jul

    Sycamore Flake
    "The start of the rising traverse from the groove has some very loose rock. Take ..." 12/Jun

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