Adjacent Areas
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Trad
No sun
Level
5 minsRestricted Access
The central section of the cliff has a fine set of powerful groove-lines, and some open faces. Once these were regarded as equal to the best routes in Wales - well they may not be quite that good - but most are still worth doing. Several routes manage to find their way through unlikely terrain at reasonable grades, without getting involved with anything too dramatic. Guidebook page 378.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Last Testament The leaning groove left of a large Y-trunked tree is steep and sustained. Pass the bulge (crux - old peg) for more of the same... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
2 |
Wind of Change | 1 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
3 |
Guts Ache Groove The slanting groove behind the tree is climbed in its entirety. It gives a fine sustained pitch which is a little easier than... 2 user comments | 2 Stars | VS 4c |
4 |
Guillotine Climb the steep slanting crack in the left wall of the slabby groove - knobbly. Where it ends, step left into the continuation... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy Graunchy | HVS 5a |
5 |
Garroter One of the original classics of the crag is now very polished but, if you can handle that, the climbing is superbly... 1 user comment | 3 Stars | VS 4c |
6 |
Halo Left-hand A sadly neglected line through the left edge of the bulges that cross the wall. Follow the groove trending right to the bulges... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | HVS 5b |
7 |
Bagatelle An interesting diagonal expedition.1) 5a, 40m. Follow Halo Left-hand to the bulges then traverse right under the roofs... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
8 |
Halo Right-hand Follow Halo Left-hand to the bulges then traverse 6m right as for Bagatelle before pulling steeply leftwards to enter the upper... | HVS 5b | |
9 |
Tramp Climb up into the hanging groove and exit steeply from this to reach the traverse on Bagatelle. Reach the short diagonal crack... | 1 Stars Technical | E4 6b |