Garroter Area

Adjacent Areas
< Lime Street Area  |  Pothole Wall >

Trad
No sun
5 mins
Level
Sheltered
Restricted Access

The central section of the cliff has a fine set of powerful groove-lines, and some open faces. Once these were regarded as equal to the best routes in Wales - well they may not be quite that good - but most are still worth doing. Several routes manage to find their way through unlikely terrain at reasonable grades, without getting involved with anything too dramatic.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Last Testament
The leaning groove left of a large Y-trunked tree is steep and sustained. Pass the bulge (crux - old peg) for more of the same...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
2
Wind of Change
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
3
Guts Ache Groove
The slanting groove behind the tree is climbed in its entirety. It gives a fine sustained pitch which is a little easier than...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
4
Guillotine
Climb the steep slanting crack in the left wall of the slabby groove - knobbly. Where it ends, step left into the continuation...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
HVS 5a
5
Garroter
One of the original classics of the crag is now very polished but, if you can handle that, the climbing is superbly...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
VS 4c
6
Halo Left-hand
A sadly neglected line through the left edge of the bulges that cross the wall. Follow the groove trending right to the bulges...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
7
Bagatelle
An interesting diagonal expedition.1) 5a, 40m. Follow Halo Left-hand to the bulges then traverse right under the roofs...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
8
Halo Right-hand
Follow Halo Left-hand to the bulges then traverse 6m right as for Bagatelle before pulling steeply leftwards to enter the upper...
 HVS 5b
9
Tramp
Climb up into the hanging groove and exit steeply from this to reach the traverse on Bagatelle. Reach the short diagonal crack...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
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  • Latest Comments

    For WILLERSLEY

    Last Testament
    "Given a good clean last week. A Willersley favourite now back on the menu...." 21/Jul

    Excavator
    "This route should lose its 'loose' icon - it was a bit dirty, but not unstable. ..." 17/Jul

    Gangue Grooves
    "Not sure about the "continuous 5a-ish climbing the whole way" (and cer..." 15/Jul top50

    Pleasure Dome
    "I wonder how many people follow the correct line on p1 of this route nowadays? T..." 11/Jul

    Lime Street Direct
    "There is now a peg just below the groove which does help somewhat though you do ..." 10/Sep

    Guillotine
    "The route shown on the topo in the new Rockfax actually goes up the new route Ch..." 23/Aug

    Blessed are the Weak
    "one of the best 7a+'s in the peak when clean." 29/Mar

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