Boomerang Area

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
No sun
5 mins
Level
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Restricted Access

The right-hand side of the cliff has some good hard routes, as well as the elegant but tired line of Boomerang. Many of these routes stay dry in light rain.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
P.T.O.
A fine climb with a butch crux that feels a long way off the ground. Climb the long groove to the bulges then power left...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
2
In the Beginning
Attack the big roof to the right of the crux of P.T.O. via a niche (bolts). Exit left from this and sprint up to join the crack...
 
1 Stars
Strong
E5 6a
3
Diseased Meat
Follow P.T.O. to the roof then make a tricky blind traverse out right and enter the final hanging groove by some harrowing...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6a
4
Blessed are the Weak
... for they shall be pumped. A good sport route following the line of fixed gear up the shallow groove and the leaning wall...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
5
Boomerang
A once popular route (at HVS 5b) up a good natural line, but it is polished and the old pegs are terrible. Climb the pocketed...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5c
6
Hallowed be My Name
Climb direct through the bulge. Desperately technical.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c
7
Mine is the Kingdom
Climb the bulges above the centre of the traverse of Boomerang with difficulty to reach easier-angled rock. Up this then finish...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
8
Running Blind
Grope up the bulging wall to eventual relief at a juggy flake. Ape right to the arete and climb its left-hand side until forced...
 
Technical
E4 6a
9
Cucumber Crack
A butch crack pitch. Follow the fissure in the left wall of Cucumber Groove to a ledge and possible belay. Climb into the niche...
 
Fluttery
Graunchy
HVS 5a
10
Cucumber Groove
A fine line though it is pretty slippery. Climb the well-defined groove throughout; good gear available, though the upper...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
11
Cucumber Variant
A less glossy finish to Cucumber Groove. Start up the main groove but swing right into the subsidiary groove at the overhang...
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
12
Sisyphus
Climb the steep arete and swing right to a steep crack (decent gear at last), layback strenuously up this to a rest. Step back...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E2 5c
13
Adamant
Step off the rocking block and power up the right-slanting crack into an easier groove. It gives strenuous jamming and proves...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
14
Constable Crack
A battle which is easier for the ham-fisted. Plod up the wide leaning crack on rattly jams and greasy jugs.
 
Strong
E1 5b
15
White Wall Corner
From the tip of the right-hand block, traverse right to a small tree, then climb the slippery groove with difficulty. Pull left...
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
16
Beyond Recall
Climb the steep wall to the tree on White Wall Corner, then move out right to follow the arete to the top.
 
Loose
HVS 5a
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  • Latest Comments

    For WILLERSLEY

    God
    "Great route. Pumpy as hell though. Great protection and never too serious but ke..." 03/Aug

    Last Testament
    "Given a good clean last week. A Willersley favourite now back on the menu...." 21/Jul

    Excavator
    "This route should lose its 'loose' icon - it was a bit dirty, but not unstable. ..." 17/Jul

    Gangue Grooves
    "Not sure about the "continuous 5a-ish climbing the whole way" (and cer..." 15/Jul top50

    Pleasure Dome
    "I wonder how many people follow the correct line on p1 of this route nowadays? T..." 11/Jul

    Lime Street Direct
    "There is now a peg just below the groove which does help somewhat though you do ..." 10/Sep

    Guillotine
    "The route shown on the topo in the new Rockfax actually goes up the new route Ch..." 23/Aug

    Blessed are the Weak
    "one of the best 7a+'s in the peak when clean." 29/Mar

    Boomerang
    "Soloed this,rather scary, very polished indeed, sort of enjoyable.Top end for it..." 15/Dec

    Crown of Thorns
    "This is definitely not a defunct route. Whenever I have done it I have started u..." 11/Jul

    Sycamore Flake
    "The start of the rising traverse from the groove has some very loose rock. Take ..." 12/Jun

    Halo Left-hand
    "Better than it looks" 09/Jun

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