Adjacent Areas
< Gangue Grooves | Cucumber Groove >
Trad
No sun
Level
5 minsDry in the Rain
Restricted Access
The right-hand side of the cliff has some good hard routes, as well as the elegant but tired line of Boomerang. Many of these routes stay dry in light rain. Guidebook page 381.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
P.T.O. A fine climb with a butch crux that feels a long way off the ground. Climb the long groove to the bulges then power left... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
2 |
In the Beginning Attack the big roof to the right of the crux of P.T.O. via a niche (bolts). Exit left from this and sprint up to join the crack... | 1 Stars Strong | E5 6a |
3 |
Diseased Meat Follow P.T.O. to the roof then make a tricky blind traverse out right and enter the final hanging groove by some harrowing... | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E4 6a |
4 |
Blessed are the Weak ... for they shall be pumped. A good sport route following the line of fixed gear up the shallow groove and the leaning wall... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
5 |
Boomerang A once popular route (at HVS 5b) up a good natural line, but it is polished and the old pegs are terrible. Climb the pocketed... 6 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Rounded Fluttery | E1 5c |
6 |
Hallowed be My Name Climb direct through the bulge. Desperately technical. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical | 7c |
7 |
Mine is the Kingdom Climb the bulges above the centre of the traverse of Boomerang with difficulty to reach easier-angled rock. Up this then finish... | 1 Stars Pumpy | E5 6a |
8 |
Running Blind Grope up the bulging wall to eventual relief at a juggy flake. Ape right to the arete and climb its left-hand side until forced... | Technical | E4 6a |