Boomerang Area

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Level
Sheltered
Restricted Access

The right-hand side of the cliff has some good hard routes, as well as the elegant but tired line of Boomerang. Many of these routes stay dry in light rain. The far right-hand side of the cliff has another set of good lines in the form of a series of cracks and grooves. These are all in the orange zone so a good day's climbing is on offer here, though sadly all of the best climbs have become polished over the years.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
P.T.O.
A fine climb with a butch crux that feels a long way off the ground. Climb the long groove to the bulges then power left...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
E2
2
In the Beginning
Attack the big roof to the right of the crux of P.T.O. via a niche (bolts). Exit left from this and sprint up to join the crack...
 
1 Stars
Strong
E5
3
Diseased Meat
Follow P.T.O. to the roof then make a tricky blind traverse out right and enter the final hanging groove by some harrowing...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4
4
Blessed are the Weak
... for they shall be pumped. A good sport route following the line of fixed gear up the shallow groove and the leaning wall...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
7a+
5
Boomerang
A once popular route up a good natural line, but it is polished and the old pegs are terrible. Climb the pocketed wall to the...
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
6
Hallowed be My Name
Climb direct through the bulge. Desperately technical.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c
7
Mine is the Kingdom
Climb the bulges above the centre of the traverse of Boomerang with difficulty to reach easier-angled rock. Up this then finish...
 
1 Stars
E5
8
Running Blind
Grope up the bulging wall to eventual relief at a juggy flake. Ape right to the arete and climb its left-hand side until forced...
 
Technical
E4
9
Cucumber Crack
A butch crack pitch. Follow the fissure in the left wall of Cucumber Groove to a ledge and possible belay. Climb into the niche...
 
Graunchy
HVS
10
Cucumber Groove
A fine line though it is pretty slippery. Climb the well-defined groove throughout; good gear available, though the upper...
 
2 Stars
VS
11
Cucumber Variant
A less glossy finish to Cucumber Groove. Start up the main groove but swing right into the subsidiary groove at the overhang...
 
1 Stars
VS
12
Sisyphus
Climb the steep arete and swing right to a steep crack (decent gear at last), layback strenuously up this to a rest. Step back...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E2
13
Adamant
Step off the rocking block and power up the right-slanting crack into an easier groove. It gives strenuous jamming and proves...
 
1 Stars
HVS
14
Constable Crack
A battle which is easier for the ham-fisted. Plod up the wide leaning crack on rattly jams and greasy jugs.
 
Strong
E1
15
White Wall Corner
From the tip of the right-hand block, traverse right to a small tree, then climb the slippery groove with difficulty. Pull left...
 
1 Stars
HVS
16
Beyond Recall
Climb the steep wall to the tree on White Wall Corner, then move out right to follow the arete to the top.
 
Loose
HVS