El Bovedón

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Morning sun
5 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

This cave gives some superb routes. It faces east and only gets a little bit of early morning sunshine. It makes a fine retreat in hot weather when it is shady for most of the day. The enclosed nature also means that it is well sheltered from any wind and it is doubtful whether any rain has ever really has any impact on the main central routes. There could be seepage in places but even this is very limited.
The central section of the cave has many desperate lines which cross each other, there are also a number of projects and link-up routes just to add to the confusion. The information about these routes is beyond the scope of this guidebook and has not been documented here. We have included a selection of the better-known lines and indicated some of them on the topo.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
De-bolted Rib
A scrappy route up the left-hand edge of the crag.
 4a
2
Bovedón Short Bulge
Two bolts up a short steep bulge.
 6b
3
Bovedón Short Groove
Climb the bulge and corner to a cave.
 6a
4
Rib and Wall
A blank rib leads to the cave. Follow the wall above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
5
Bovedón 6b Rib
A good little rib on the right-hand side of the low cave.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b
6
Bovedón Wall Left
The left-hand line to a mid-height lower-off.
 
1 Stars
6a
7
Bovedón Wall Right
The right-hand line with a tricky start.
 
1 Stars
6a
8
Bovedón Broccoli Wall
The broccoli wall leading to a steep bulge.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
7a+
9
Insommi
The wall leading to a bulge.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
10
Qu'est-ce que tu fais
Tackle the roof of the cave to a groove then the vertical wall.
 
1 Stars
Strong
7a
11
Bovedón Bushes Route 1
A hard start right of the cave then the easier rib above.
 
2 Stars
Strong
7a+
12
Bovedón Bushes Route 2
Start deep in the bushes (gained from the left). Good climbing with a nice finish. There may be a right-hand finish at 6c.
 
2 Stars
6c
13
Bovedón Bushes Route 3
Another route that starts deep in the bushes (gained from the right this time).
 
1 Stars
6c
14
Lobos
The fine tufa on the left side of the first small cave section. There is another line to the left that has a couple of...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a
15
Trasnochando
A direct line through the lower bulge, crossing Farrear..
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8b
16
Farrear y corbardes
Start up the block to the right and traverse left just above the lip, then attack the steep wall to a hard finishing move.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
17
Perpetúan mobile
Start as for Farrear... but climb direct to gain a left-facing flake. Leave this leftwards, then head back right to finish.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
18
Larga, dura y caliente
The long wall starting up the right-hand edge of the block.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a+
19
Arcadia
Climb the fine tufa to its top, then break out across the roof.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7c
20
Carnicero de Castelnovo
The left-hand finish to Arcadia.
 
3 Stars
Technical
8a+
21
Abradacabra
At the steepening weave your way through various small caves that lead across the roof.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
22
Armando
Start right at the back of the cave and climb diagonally out, crossing Abracadabra and Arcadia. No line on topo.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a+
23
Malsoñando
Follow Armando but take the right-hand branch. No line on topo.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8c
24
Troglobio
The line left of the huge corner.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8b
25
Benito Camela
The huge corner line.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b
26
Tulipunk
A steep start then bulges with rests.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
27
Rica chona
Climb the bulges, past good rests to a final fingery wall.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c
28
Bovedóna
A good long route which crosses the lip of the cave leftwards in a fine position. Start above the wall.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
29
Quin Tomas
The direct version of the previous route is nice and sustained.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
30
Hernia Fiscal
The left-hand line of three shorter routes.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
31
Tambors Llunyans
The central line.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
7a
32
Escalada Lechunga
The right-hand line.
 
1 Stars
6a+
33
Quinto Pino
Start right of the trees.
 
1 Stars
6a+
  • Access Issues for Costa Blanca


  • Latest Comments

    For GANDÍA

    Celtas Cortos
    "Brilliant climbing but one of the toughest at this grade in the Costa Blanca." 16/Jan

    Maque, Popeye y la Sirla
    "So is the groove allowed or not? Easier than some of the 6Bs. Nice route." 11/Mar

    Muluk el targu&iacute;
    "I'm not sure a long reach is that necessary but being strong will certainly hel..." 11/Jan

    El sol
    "Another Gandia classic sandbag! Lovely 6b/6b+ climbing all the way up to the roo..." 14/Jan top50

    Larga, dura y caliente
    "The locals give it 7b/+ to the first lower off. 7a to the last bolt then a boul..." 11/Apr

    Lo que sigui
    "The bucket pulling through the roof is fun, but then it gets trickier.. and is a..." 26/Feb

    Botoia sakatu
    "Excellent. Is using the big hole to the left fair play for a rest at half heigh..." 20/Feb

    Quin Tomas
    "excelent. but more 6b+" 02/Jan

    Bombero gorilero
    "I climbed this route (as portrayed in the photo in the book), however, this rout..." 16/Jul

    Enya
    "Fantastic route. The "hidden" hole had so much chalk around it, it was..." 01/Mar

    Kamari
    "What a great climb, well worth the two stars." 10/Jan

    Erupcion
    "The first 3m are thin (crux) but above this it eases off." 25/Nov

    Peiote de bote
    "If you read this, you can't climb it on sigth.Hidden holds going rigth hand over..." 17/Nov

    Madarikatuak
    "not if you try Chiqui next door !" 19/Apr

    El ser
    "This used to be 5+ in the old guide. It's barely 5+, really, no idea why it gets..." 05/Apr

    Pepestroika
    "A great overhanging jug haul and like so many others, I also loved the dong! I ..." 10/Mar top50

    Sugar glass
    "Not 7c, not 3 stars, but worthwhile climbing with one crux move into jug. Just g..." 16/Jan

    Fisura tal..
    "Topo line is wrong, but the above description is right - heading rightwards give..." 04/Jan

    Novatillos
    "Nicely sustained at 5 with a harder bit at 3/4 height. The top part is exposed a..." 09/Dec

    Don Diego
    "i thought this was very powerful, more so than alot of 7bs ive done! despite the..." 28/Oct top50

    Larga, dura y caliente
    "7a to the twin bolts. Then a boulder problem and possibly the hold has broken?" 19/Jun

    Zucaricida
    "I'm glad someone else thinks that. I found this truly desperate for 6c" 20/Apr

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