Darkness Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Morning sun
Level
5 mins
Sheltered

Intake Quarry is now banned.
Currently the best-developed wall in the quarry is the Darkness Wall. The routes here are relatively high and on weathered rock which, although still a bit dusty, will soon clean up. The narrow ledges below the wall have a series of bolt belays - care is required here if it is at all damp. Guidebook page 207.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Join the Dots
12m. The pleasant wall on the left. Worth doing.
1 user comment
 5
2
See Spot Run
14m. The good central pillar has some excellent moves.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
3
In a Dash
14m. The right-hand pillar at the top of the bank is dirty at the start but worthwhile once above this.
 6c
4
The Clumps
20m. The left-hand side of main wall gives a reasonable pitch. It will improve after a bit of traffic.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
5
5
A Sharp Intake of Breath
22m. The faint crack line splitting the centre of the wall gives great sustained climbing.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
6
Brain Candy
20m. Pleasant face climbing on right edge of wall trending slightly right to a lower-off, just left of the tree.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b
7
Stinking Rose
20m. The pale pillar between the cracks has a tricky start through bulge leading the fine face above.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c
8
Rabbit Proof Fence
24m. The superb isolated pillar between the diverging cracks is low in the grade. Already worthwhile and it will become even...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
6c+
9
Intolerable Cruelty
24m. Climb left of the arete just left of the prominent wide crack to a ledge then tackle the intricate and crucial upper wall.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
10
Tuckers Grave
24m. A fine long pitch with the main difficulties encountered on the face above the major horizontal break.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c+
11
Plum Tuckered Out
24m. The right-hand route on this section of the cliff takes a line past ledges then a thin crack. Lower-off down the previous...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b
12
Friar Tuck
22m. Climb past the orange patch, where loose rock used to lurk, to reach the thin crack system above.
2 user comments
 
Crimpy
6b
13
Thatll Teach 'em
18m. The highly technical face climb trending right through the overlap is sustained and high in the grade.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
14
Dead Ringer
20m. Superb face climbing up the gently leaning wall on great rock. Another that's likely to become a classic.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
15
Our Kids Orchid
1) 6c, 18m. Climb the lower wall trending right past a small overlap to a good stance on the grassy ledge.2) 7a, 16m. The...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
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  • Latest Comments

    For INTAKE QUARRY

    Brain Candy
    "The remnants of the flake at the start are still there and extremely loose. Bewa..." 09/Jun

    The Big Take Out
    "Short but very pleasant jug-pulling, more sustained than it looks. 2 stars." 12/Jun

    Intolerable Cruelty
    "the technicalities of the upper half are about the best the Darkness wall has to..." 12/Jun

    Prawn Crackers
    "no way 6c more 6b" 14/May

    Dead Ringer
    "there is a very wide crack in the ground above this route BEWARE" 16/Nov

    The Clumps
    "Good, long route but even some of the bigger holds creak worryingly. Less than r..." 26/Jul

    Chop Suicide
    "First route in 3 years - top moves were tough - stayed attached though!- roly93" 14/May

    Thatll Teach 'em
    "Agreed, this is not 6c+ the crimps are small and hard to find" 30/Apr

    Thatll Teach 'em
    "I'm not so sure - yesterday it felt 7a+ - crux section being the two bolts as yo..." 30/Apr

    Brain Candy
    "The biggest remanats of the loose flake can be avoided but still unpleasant at t..." 24/Oct

    A Sharp Intake of Breath
    "I agree this is too sustained to be 6b, 6b+ but low in the grade. well worth the..." 08/Sep

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