Lorry Park Quarry Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Trad and Sport
Sun and Shade
2 mins
Level
Sheltered

The red mainly north-facing wall has been developed with a set of technical wall and crack climbs.
Approach - The quarry is situated just south of Matlock off the A6, 200m south of the Boat House pub. Park as for Pic Tor (page 338) and walk back up the road towards Matlock. The entrance to the quarry is on the left, just before some new houses (being built at the time of writing). Various fences discourage you from entering. The wall is on the far side of the quarry.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Wild Strawberries
The arete left of the corner to a single bolt lower-off.
1 user comment
 6c+
2
On the Road
An impressive line up the huge corner. Often damp.
 
1 Stars
E3
3
Ground Zero
The thin wall gives and intense pitch. Continue past the mid-height lower-off to the top for the full tick.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c+
4
The Squealer
An excellent wall climb. There are two variations.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c
5
Squealer Super Direct
Break right from the original.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c+
6
Squealer Direct
Straight up from the upper traverse.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c+
7
Supercrack
Sustained crack climbing up the thin line with a high crux.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
7a
8
Dark Matter
Another blank wall climb. Starting from the right is 7c+.
 
1 Stars
Technical
8b
9
Edge of Darkness
The clean jamming crack has now been bolted and cleaned.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b+
10
Big Spider, Small Bath
Climb direct to gain a thin crack right of Edge of Darkness.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
11
Good Time Emporium
The blank wall past two ledges. The hardest bit is at the bottom but there is another near the top. Staple bolts.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
7b
12
Shore Leave
Technical climbing up the wall left of Shattered Air. No bridging allowed into the corner. Staple bolts.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
13
Shattered Air
Up the ledges and open corner. Use the lower-off on Shore Leave.
1 user comment
 E3
14
Deceptive
Excellent twin cracks with a tricky section by the second bolt. Much harder than it looks.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
15
Confidence Trick
Intense moves up the steep wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
8a+
16
Thunder Road
The lone left-facing flake/crack gives sustained pitch.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
6c+
17
Hell's Angels
An intricate lower wall. Staple bolts.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
18
Sample the Mantel
A thin wall climb. The mantel is optional.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
19
Baron Samedi
Start up the arete left of the corner of Desolation Angels.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
20
Desolation Angels
A long diagonal line connecting ledges and flakes with hard moves leads to a tricky finish. A good line and reasonably...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5
21
Game On
The left-hand of two shorter routes on the far end of the wall.
1 user comment
 
Technical
7a+
22
Go Your Own Way
15m. The last route is much harder than it looks. No grabbing the belay; you have to move past it to get the tick.
 
Technical
Crimpy
7b