Black Rocks is a fine but somewhat neglected cliff in the Southern Peak away from the better-known gritstone crags. It sits proudly on a hill above Cromford and near the limestone crags of High Tor and Wild Cat. The cliff has a reasonable selection of lower grade climbs, some good orange-spot routes and a whole bunch of the really hard stuff up the bald and blank aretes and walls. It is somewhat lacking in the red-spot grades but there is the classic Promontory Traverse for compensation.
Routes
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92 trad routes (M...E9) 9 boulder problems (VB...V6) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |         | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Railway Slab The first climbing is by the High Peak Trail that runs along under the crag.The left-hand piece of... |
13 | Boulder |
Sun and shade |
Level 1 min |
364 | |
| New Year Buttress The far left-hand end of the crag has some excellent lower grade routes, a couple of which are... |
10 | Trad |
No sun |
Uphill 5 mins |
366 | |
| Central Buttress The attractive slabby face of Central Buttress with the conspicuous tooth of the Stonnis Pinnacle... |
8 | Trad |
No sun |
Uphill 5 mins |
367 | |
| The Promontory The huge jutting prow of The Promontory is one of the finest buttresses anywhere on grit and has a... |
13 | Trad |
Sun and shade |
Uphill 5 mins |
368 | |
| Sand Buttress and Lean Man's More typical Black Rocks fare; good beefy VS cracks interspersed with blank walls and rounded... |
20 | Trad |
No sun |
Uphill 5 mins |
370 | |
| Finale Slab and Gaia A contrasting set of routes from modern desperates, through to some old bald slabs and a fair... |
13 | Trad |
Evening sun |
Uphill 5 mins |
372 | |
| Birch Tree Wall Area The attractive west-facing walls are the first to be reached and are arguably the cliff’s finest... |
16 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Uphill 5 mins |
374 | |
| The Block Behind the right-hand edge of the cliff, and directly beyond the approach gully, is the retiring... |
8 | Trad |
Sun and shade |
Uphill 5 mins |
375 | |
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