Higgar is a small outcrop with a big impact and steep stuff is the order of the day. Most of the routes will only succumb to a forceful and determined approach and any wavering will be punished with utmost brutality. The abrasive-tool names are a not-very-subtle indication of the nature of the rock on the whole cliff, with the striking line of The Rasp being the showpiece. It is typical of many of the other routes: a steep overhanging crack that sometimes affords good jams but is often less accommodating; protection is plentiful but placing it is tiring and the finishes may leave you a breathless and battered soul by the time you reach the top. There is a theory that the routes feel under-graded because the block is slowly tipping forward as time passes. I don\'t think Joe Brown would agree, he was just good at climbing steep and uncompromising cracks. Although the Leaning Block is the main event, the shorter walls to either side also have some worthwhile offerings but even here don\'t expect any soft touches.
Routes
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51 trad routes (VD...E6) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| The Riffler The low wall left of the Leaning Block has a set of steep routes which have a similar reputation to... |
11 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 5 mins |
Windy | 215 |
| Leaning Block The main feature of the Higgar is the impressive chunk of rock of The Leaning Block. The front face... |
15 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 5 mins |
Windy | 216 |
| Higgar Tor Right To the right the crag continues as a collection of short buttresses and walls with a prominent... |
25 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 5 mins |
Windy | 218 |
| What do these symbols mean? | ||||||