One of the more popular venues in the Red Rose County is the extensive quarry of Anglezarke. It is home to a good set of routes across the grade range with some of Lancashire’s finest classics standing out from the pack. The easy-angled slabs near the approach are extremely popular with beginners and groups but in reality the better climbing lies deeper into the quarry. A bit of exploration will be rewarded with the dramatic Golden Tower or the steep and unusual routes on the Terror Cotta Wall. Unfortunately the rock is not best quality millstone grit, but a sandstone with some soft shale bands and other odd crumbly stuff. Only the relatively solid areas have been developed and most of the dangerous rock has gone, although the occasional snappy hold or loose block might still be encountered. Often sand washes down from above, especially on the popular climbs, where the grassy top of the cliff has been eroded. With this being the case, the harder climbs might need a quick brush before your ascent - get your mate to do it if you want to preserve the on-sight. In recent years much of the base of the quarry has become increasingly overgrown, and this has led to standing water and a more humid atmosphere. The could do with a bit of TLC, thinning of the vegetation would open up the walls to the sun and breeze.

Photo: Whittaker's Buttress © ROCKFAX

ROUTES

66 trad routes (VD...E6) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents

Buttress (click for routes)	No. of Routes	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other	Page
Whittaker's Buttress Either side of the descent route into the quarry are two clean walls split by cracks. Unfortunately...	14			2 mins		-
Terror Cotta A slabby face on the left and a large red-stained wall of slightly crusty rock on the right, are...	11			3 mins		257
Falkland Walls Hidden away in the north eastern corner of the quarry is this esoteric looking wall, split by a...	8			3 mins		6
The Golden Tower The finest feature at Anglezarke; a big block of glowing gritstone with the best set of routes in...	13			4 mins		258
Coal Measures Crag The most bizarre climbing destination in the quarry and perhaps in the country; a wall of good...	10			5 mins		259
Grey Buttress Curiously this is the orange-tinted wall on the far side of the quarry, directly opposite the...	10			5 mins		8
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First Finale
"Lots of incut holds - almost like a climbing wall! A softer option than trying ..." 05/May

Fool's Gold
"Turned up at Anglezarke for the first time ever on April 1st 2009, and guess who..." 14/Apr

Cotton Terror
"Tempting and tantalising from below... the crux sequence gradually turns sour as..." 09/Jun

Tangerine Trip
"Pumpy it certainly is... keep going because there is a good rest after where you..." 21/Oct

Sunbeam
"Up to the overhang it's nice 4a climbing. Then it gets hard, certainly harder th..." 20/Apr

Glister Wall
"Nice route really." 04/Mar

Superb
"I found this nails. The moves out of the crack involved some dodgy pulling on l..." 29/Apr

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