ANGLEZARKE


One of the more popular venues in the Red Rose County is the extensive quarry of Anglezarke. It is home to a good set of routes across the grade range with some of Lancashire’s finest classics standing out from the pack. The easy-angled slabs near the approach are extremely popular with beginners and groups but in reality the better climbing lies deeper into the quarry. A bit of exploration will be rewarded with the dramatic Golden Tower or the steep and unusual routes on the Terror Cotta Wall. Unfortunately the rock is not best quality millstone grit, but a sandstone with some soft shale bands and other odd crumbly stuff. Only the relatively solid areas have been developed and most of the dangerous rock has gone, although the occasional snappy hold or loose block might still be encountered. Often sand washes down from above, especially on the popular climbs, where the grassy top of the cliff has been eroded. With this being the case, the harder climbs might need a quick brush before your ascent - get your mate to do it if you want to preserve the on-sight. In recent years much of the base of the quarry has become increasingly overgrown, and this has led to standing water and a more humid atmosphere. The could do with a bit of TLC, thinning of the vegetation would open up the walls to the sun and breeze.

Routes

66 trad routes (VD...E6)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Whittaker's Buttress
Either side of the descent route into the quarry are two clean walls split by cracks. Unfortunately...
14
Trad
Morning sun
Up and down

2 mins

sheltered
-
Terror Cotta
A slabby face on the left and a large red-stained wall of slightly crusty rock on the right, are...
11
Trad
Morning sun
Up and down

3 mins

sheltered
257
Falkland Walls
Hidden away in the north eastern corner of the quarry is this esoteric looking wall, split by a...
8
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

3 mins

sheltered
6
The Golden Tower
The finest feature at Anglezarke; a big block of glowing gritstone with the best set of routes in...
13
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

4 mins

sheltered
258
Coal Measures Crag
The most bizarre climbing destination in the quarry and perhaps in the country; a wall of good...
10
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

5 mins

sheltered
259
Grey Buttress
Curiously this is the orange-tinted wall on the far side of the quarry, directly opposite the...
10
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

5 mins

sheltered
8
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  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For ANGLEZARKE

    Many Happy Returns
    "Nowhere near E1 and only just about HVS." 14/Oct

    Many Happy Returns
    "My intrepid leader pulled several very large chunks of the mid-height flake off ..." 11/Aug

    Birthday Crack
    "Worthwhile now that it's clean." 29/Mar

    The Golden Tower
    "Well in my opinion it certainly ain't "super easy for E2"! It's awkwar..." 27/Sep top50

    Klondike
    "Cleaned up early 2010. So where's my fiver, then?" 03/May

    First Finale
    "Lots of incut holds - almost like a climbing wall! A softer option than trying ..." 05/May

    Fool's Gold
    "Turned up at Anglezarke for the first time ever on April 1st 2009, and guess who..." 14/Apr

    Cotton Terror
    "Tempting and tantalising from below... the crux sequence gradually turns sour as..." 09/Jun

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