BURBAGE SOUTH


The South Edge of the Burbage Valley has never acquired the popularity of its northern brother. Its grim and shady aspect doesn't help but it is probably more to do with the uncompromising appearance of the various buttresses which has limited the popularity of the place to true aficionados. The surprising fact is that Burbage South is home of several of the hardest routes on gritstone which makes them amongst the hardest traditional challenges anywhere in the world. A successful ascent of the likes of Captain Invincible, Parthian Shot and Equilibrium will more than likely make the news section on the various web sites and magazines of the climbing world. Don't be put off though, in amongst all these big names are plenty of other fine routes across the grade range.

Routes

119 trad routes (M...E10)
19 boulder problems (V0 4c...V14 8B+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Far Left
At the northern end of Burbage South is a series of tiny buttresses with about twenty routes up to...
36
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

25 mins

The Boggart and Byne's Crack
A couple of imposing towers, the finest on all Burbage, are home to a great set of routes from VS...
25
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

20 mins

Dowel Crack
The central section of the cliff has a series of small buttresses split by some meaty cracks....
19
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

20 mins

Nosferatu
The tall buttress of Nosferatu is the main attraction here although there is some good bouldering...
20
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

18 mins

Pebble Mill
A fine tall buttress that is home to one of John Allenís classic pebble-pulling routes of the...
9
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

12 mins

David and Goliath
A fine buttress of magnificent solid rock spilt by two of gritís better known cracks and bounded by...
9
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

12 mins

North Quarry
Although not the prettiest of settings there are a few worthwhile routes in this gloomy recess,...
11
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

12 mins

South Quarry
The Southern Burbage Quarry is as grim as its neighbour but it is worth a visit to view the amazing...
9
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

10 mins

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  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE SOUTH

    Goliath
    "The top crack can be fisted. Tried to climb it as an offwidth for the full exper..." 02/Jun

    Pebble Mill
    "Soft - easier than The Knock or White Wand - Im only 5 10' aswell." 29/Oct

    Movie Star
    "An update - the older BMC guides describes moving in from the R (Surprise)and gi..." 13/Jul

    Zeus
    "Hard work but very worthwhile. Safe as houses - didn't detect any movement in th..." 28/Jun

    Roof Route
    "Looks pretty tame at first sight put its definately harder than it looks, lay aw..." 28/May

    Boggart Left-hand
    "I'm 5'9" and found the reach/dyno quite tricky. The repeated swings to the ..." 03/Dec

    The Knock
    "Did this onsight and thought E4 5c would be fair. pads or no pads, won't make m..." 20/Oct top50

    Life Assurance
    "First E6! so cant really comment on the grade, great line, not the best conditio..." 10/Oct

    Samson
    "it looks so much easier on hard grit..." 20/Sep

    Nathaniel
    "Nasty. Tape up well!" 13/May

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