The South Edge of the Burbage Valley has never acquired the popularity of its northern brother. Its grim and shady aspect doesn\'t help but it is probably more to do with the uncompromising appearance of the various buttresses which has limited the popularity of the place to true aficionados. The surprising fact is that Burbage South is home of several of the hardest routes on gritstone which makes them amongst the hardest traditional challenges anywhere in the world. A successful ascent of the likes of Captain Invincible, Parthian Shot and Equilibrium will more than likely make the news section on the various web sites and magazines of the climbing world. Don\'t be put off though, in amongst all these big names are plenty of other fine routes across the grade range.

Photo: The arete on the Brick Boulder, Burbage South, Eastern Grit © Alan James

ROUTES

119 trad routes (M...E10) 19 boulder problems (V0...V14) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents

Buttress (click for routes)	No. of Routes	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other	Page
Far Left At the northern end of Burbage South is a series of tiny buttresses with about twenty routes up to...	36			25 mins		222
The Boggart and Byne's Crack A couple of imposing towers, the finest on all Burbage, are home to a great set of routes from VS...	25			20 mins		224
Dowel Crack The central section of the cliff has a series of small buttresses split by some meaty cracks....	19			20 mins		226
Nosferatu The tall buttress of Nosferatu is the main attraction here although there is some good bouldering...	20			18 mins		228
Pebble Mill A fine tall buttress that is home to one of John Allen’s classic pebble-pulling routes of the...	9			12 mins		230
David and Goliath A fine buttress of magnificent solid rock spilt by two of grit’s better known cracks and bounded by...	9			12 mins		231
North Quarry Although not the prettiest of settings there are a few worthwhile routes in this gloomy recess,...	11			12 mins		232
South Quarry The Southern Burbage Quarry is as grim as its neighbour but it is worth a visit to view the amazing...	9			10 mins		233
		What do these symbols mean?

Zeus
"Hard work but very worthwhile. Safe as houses - didn't detect any movement in th..." 28/Jun

Roof Route
"Looks pretty tame at first sight put its definately harder than it looks, lay aw..." 28/May

Boggart Left-hand
"I'm 5'9" and found the reach/dyno quite tricky. The repeated swings to the ..." 03/Dec

The Knock
"Did this onsight and thought E4 5c would be fair. pads or no pads, won't make m..." 20/Oct

Life Assurance
"First E6! so cant really comment on the grade, great line, not the best conditio..." 10/Oct

Samson
"it looks so much easier on hard grit..." 20/Sep

Nathaniel
"Nasty. Tape up well!" 13/May

Byne's Crack
"Felt pretty tough for VS 4B not sure if that's cause it's a while since I've led..." 09/Dec

The Boggart
"easier to solo but still 6b. really interesting tenuous moves." 06/Nov

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