BURBAGE SOUTH


Burbage South has never really been as popular as its northern twin. While its shady aspect and greenness don't help, its popularity has been limited by the uncompromising appearance of its buttresses, which lack the lower grade classics that pepper most of the other edges in the area. It is something of a surprising fact that Burbage South is home to several of the hardest routes on gritstone which makes them amongst the hardest trad challenges anywhere. Don't be put off though, in amongst all the big names are plenty of other fine routes across the grade range as long as you choose a dry spell to visit. Summer shade is an added attraction on the hottest days of the year, as is evening sunshine on cooler summer evenings.

Routes

136 trad routes (M...E10)
35 boulder problems (f3+...f8A)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Earl Area
The northern end of Burbage South continues as a series of small buttresses, gradually dwindling in...
34
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

18 mins

Windy
Split Nose
Just past the twin towers of The Boggart and Byne's Crack are some short walls with several...
14
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

16 mins

sheltered
Roof Route
Just past the twin towers of The Boggart and Byne's Crack are some short walls with several...
9
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

14 mins

sheltered
The Boggart and Byne's Crack
These two superb blocky towers are the finest on the whole of Burbage. Home to a great set of...
23
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

14 mins

Windy
Dowel Crack
The central section of the cliff has a series of small walls split by some short and meaty cracks....
23
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Nosferatu Area
The tall buttress of Nosferatu is the main attraction here although there is some good bouldering...
23
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

12 mins

Windy
Pebble Mill
A fine buttress that is home to one of John Allen's classic pebble-pulling routes of the 1970s,...
10
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

10 mins

Windy
David and Goliath
A famous pair of cracks bounded on either side by an impressive pair of aretes.
9
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

10 mins

Windy
North Quarry
A gloomy quarry with a few decent routes best done on high summer evenings. When the sun is...
17
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

8 mins

Seepage
sheltered
South Quarry
The Southern Quarry is as grim as its neighbour; it has a small collection of hard routes and a few...
12
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
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  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE SOUTH

    Ladder Gully
    "Changed from D to D, no votes" 23/Mar

    Goliath
    "The top crack can be fisted. Tried to climb it as an offwidth for the full exper..." 02/Jun

    Pebble Mill
    "Soft - easier than The Knock or White Wand - Im only 5 10' aswell." 29/Oct

    Movie Star
    "An update - the older BMC guides describes moving in from the R (Surprise)and gi..." 13/Jul

    Zeus
    "Hard work but very worthwhile. Safe as houses - didn't detect any movement in th..." 28/Jun

    Roof Route
    "Looks pretty tame at first sight put its definately harder than it looks, lay aw..." 28/May

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