The South Edge of the Burbage Valley has never acquired the popularity of its northern brother. Its grim and shady aspect doesn't help but it is probably more to do with the uncompromising appearance of the various buttresses which has limited the popularity of the place to true aficionados. The surprising fact is that Burbage South is home of several of the hardest routes on gritstone which makes them amongst the hardest traditional challenges anywhere in the world. A successful ascent of the likes of Captain Invincible, Parthian Shot and Equilibrium will more than likely make the news section on the various web sites and magazines of the climbing world. Don't be put off though, in amongst all these big names are plenty of other fine routes across the grade range.
Routes
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119 trad routes (M...E10) 19 boulder problems (V0...V14) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |         | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Far Left At the northern end of Burbage South is a series of tiny buttresses with about twenty routes up to... |
36 | Trad |
Evening sun |
Uphill 25 mins |
Windy | 222 |
| The Boggart and Byne's Crack A couple of imposing towers, the finest on all Burbage, are home to a great set of routes from VS... |
25 | Trad |
Evening sun |
Uphill 20 mins |
Windy | 224 |
| Dowel Crack The central section of the cliff has a series of small buttresses split by some meaty cracks.... |
19 | Trad |
Evening sun |
Uphill 20 mins |
Windy | 226 |
| Nosferatu The tall buttress of Nosferatu is the main attraction here although there is some good bouldering... |
20 | Trad |
Evening sun |
Uphill 18 mins |
Windy | 228 |
| Pebble Mill A fine tall buttress that is home to one of John Allen’s classic pebble-pulling routes of the... |
9 | Trad |
Evening sun |
Uphill 12 mins |
Windy | 230 |
| David and Goliath A fine buttress of magnificent solid rock spilt by two of grit’s better known cracks and bounded by... |
9 | Trad |
Evening sun |
Uphill 12 mins |
Windy | 231 |
| North Quarry Although not the prettiest of settings there are a few worthwhile routes in this gloomy recess,... |
11 | Trad |
Evening sun |
Uphill 12 mins |
Windy | 232 |
| South Quarry The Southern Burbage Quarry is as grim as its neighbour but it is worth a visit to view the amazing... |
9 | Trad |
Evening sun |
Uphill 10 mins |
Windy | 233 |
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