MILLSTONE


Quarries are usually depressing holes in the ground, but Millstone is the exception. With smooth walls, soaring grooves and inspiring crack-lines, it is the greatest of all the gritstone quarries. The cracks here span most widths from tips to fist, though luckily there are no dreaded off-widths. Many of the routes were originally done as aid climbs up spidery cracks, the repeated placing of pegs widened them enough to allow access to thin fingers and pointed toes and also to provide protection from wires. Fortunately the climbing here is not just about cracks, there are also many fine corners and aretes formed by the careful quarrying of the various bays. The section from Green Death to the Keyhole Caves could hardly have been better designed even if a climber had been in charge of the quarrying.
It is worth pointing out that some of the exits can be dangerous where weathering had started to erode the rock before it was exposed by the quarry-men. These 'chest-of-drawers' finishes require care; it is a good idea to place an extra runner or two below the top-out and ensure the second is on-the-ball. Wearing helmets here is a good idea too.

Routes

147 trad routes (D...E9)
9 boulder problems (f5...f8A+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
North Bay
For most of the year this is a gloomy spot at the left-hand extremity of the cliff. It only sees...
22
Trad
Early morning sun
Up and down

10 mins

Seepage
sheltered
Cioch Bay
The main feature of the bay is the narrow tower of the Cioch leaning against its left side and,...
15
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Great Slab
A fine sheet of quarried grit with a nice set of routes. Great Slab is one of the best lower grade...
16
Trad
Early morning sun
Up and down

10 mins

sheltered
Twikker Area
An imposing tall bay with the shallow cave of Lyons Corner House in its left wall. The area is more...
16
Trad
Early morning sun
Up and down

10 mins

sheltered
Green Death
The most impressive part of the quarry with a series of superb lines. From the old classic of...
19
Trad
Early morning sun
Up and down

8 mins

sheltered
Great North Road
In between the smooth sheet of the Embankment and the vertical aretes and corners of Green Death is...
15
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
The Embankment
A superb sheet of rock, originally named after a similar but inferior feature in London. Once the...
17
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
London Wall
A superb set of cracks and grooves including the magnificent sustained London Wall, the quality...
8
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Keyhole Cave
A steep crack-riven wall with two wide red slots known for obvious reasons as the Keyhole Caves....
17
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Hells Bells
A pleasant buttress with some mild offerings which are suitable for those who find the scale of the...
11
Trad
Early morning sun
Up and down

5 mins

sheltered
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  • Latest Comments

    For MILLSTONE

    Dexterity
    "Changed from HVS 5b ** to E1 5b **, 60% of 10 votes for E1" 23/Mar

    Gimcrack
    "5a and hard VS if you follow the jamming crack without a deviation - might be 4c..." 13/Jun

    Coventry Street
    "I wonder if the votes for grading relate just to the bottom bit. The lead crux i..." 30/Mar

    Soho Sally
    "Really good varied climbing - but suffers a bit from lack of traffic - so get on..." 02/Sep

    Whitehall
    "Did this today - well done to whoever cleaned it up - it must have been a messy ..." 17/Aug

    Blind Bat
    "Old peg is actually OK and can be backed up with a friend 1 ish. Good crimping" 04/May

    Regent Street
    "I found the top crack hardest, both feet slipped but bomb proof finger locks and..." 15/Dec top50

    Piccadilly Circus
    "Good varied route when done as a big pitch. The hard section is short lived with..." 26/Oct

    Brimstone
    "E2 for me, but if you're happy hanging out on steep stuff with average holds it ..." 02/Oct

    Dextrous Hare
    "great route, good rp's protect" 15/Jul

    Lotto Direct
    "After the Lotto start (E1 5c), this is pretty easy at 5b max, but run out up the..." 10/Jul

    Oxford Street
    "Did the first pitch combined with Piccadilly Circus, which seemed the most logic..." 01/Jun

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