MILLSTONE


The greatest of all the gritstone quarries with sheer walls, stunning smooth corners and crack lines that are pure inspiration. Although cracks have become untrendy over recent years the ones you find here are not the dreaded off-widths. Many of the routes were originally aid climbs up hair-line cracks and the repeated inserting and removing of pegs widened the crack enough to allow access to (thin!) fingers, pointed toes and plentiful medium-wire protection. It is worth putting a bit of extra thought into your rack before setting off up one of these of finger-sized cracks since often you will need to make repeated use of the same size wire. But it is not just about cracks since there are also many fine corners and aretes formed by the thoughtful quarrying of the various bays. The section from Green Death to the Keyhole Cave could not have been designed better even if a climber had been in charge of the dynamite. Well maybe they might have done something about the unstable finishes since some of the exits are a little dangerous where sub-aerial weathering had started to erode the rock before it was exposed by the quarrymen. These \'crisp-bread\' finishes require care and it is always a good idea to place an extra bomber-wire or two before trying to top out.

Routes

130 trad routes (D...E8)
6 boulder problems (V1...V8)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
North Bay
A gloomy spot at the left-hand extremity of the cliff that only sees the sun late on in the summer,...
21
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

15 mins

sheltered
Restricted Access

Occasionally restricted due to nesting birds

239
Cioch Bay
The main feature of the bay is the narrow tower of the Cioch leaning against its left side and,...
12
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

sheltered
240
Great Slab
A fine sheet of quarried gritstone with a collection of routes across the grades. Great Slab is one...
9
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

sheltered
241
Twikker
An imposing tall bay with the shallow cave of Lyon’s Corner House and Twikker in its left wall. The...
19
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

sheltered
Restricted Access

Occasional restriction due to nesting birds

242
Green Death
The most impressive part of the quarry with a series of breath-taking lines, the old quarrymen...
19
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

sheltered
244
Great North Road
In between the immaculate sheet of the Embankment and the vertical aretes and corners of Green...
10
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

8 mins

sheltered
246
The Embankment
A superb sheet of rock, originally named after a similar but inferior feature in London. Once the...
17
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

8 mins

sheltered
247
London Wall
A superb set of cracks and grooves including the magnificent sustained London Wall, the quality...
8
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

8 mins

sheltered
248
Keyhole Cave
A steep wall riven by vertical cracks and featuring two wide red slots known for obvious reasons as...
15
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

6 mins

sheltered
250
Hells Bells
A pleasant buttress with some mild offerings which are suitable for those who find the scale of the...
6
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

6 mins

sheltered
251
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  • Latest Comments

    For MILLSTONE

    Coventry Street
    "I wonder if the votes for grading relate just to the bottom bit. The lead crux i..." 30/Mar

    Soho Sally
    "Really good varied climbing - but suffers a bit from lack of traffic - so get on..." 02/Sep

    Whitehall
    "Did this today - well done to whoever cleaned it up - it must have been a messy ..." 17/Aug

    Blind Bat
    "Old peg is actually OK and can be backed up with a friend 1 ish. Good crimping" 04/May

    Regent Street
    "I found the top crack hardest, both feet slipped but bomb proof finger locks and..." 15/Dec top50

    Piccadilly Circus
    "Good varied route when done as a big pitch. The hard section is short lived with..." 26/Oct

    Brimstone
    "E2 for me, but if you're happy hanging out on steep stuff with average holds it ..." 02/Oct

    Dextrous Hare
    "great route, good rp's protect" 15/Jul

    Lotto Direct
    "After the Lotto start (E1 5c), this is pretty easy at 5b max, but run out up the..." 10/Jul

    Oxford Street
    "Did the first pitch combined with Piccadilly Circus, which seemed the most logic..." 01/Jun

    Lambeth Chimney
    "Piece of rock at bottom of crag from recent rockfall in first part of chimney, t..." 12/Mar

    Regent Street
    "Great route, powerful then delicate then technical. Kept me in doubt all the wa..." 20/Aug top50

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