VILLAGE AREA


As you approach Cala Gonone for the first time one crag strikes you more than any other. The vast bowl of La Poltrana dominates the hillside above the town. The show-piece crag of the area provides a lot of fine slabby routes which will not suit those thuggy climbers who like juggy overhanging walls! The climbing is sustained, technical and fingery on most of the routes with some seriously thin moves on perfect rock. A day here will shred your fingers so it is best to space your visits with a day on the steeper stuff (or hard graft on the beach). The only bad thing about La Poltrana is the rather unsightly football stadium and go-kart track below which are thankfully not open in the climbing season. There are several other crags on the hillside above Cala Gonone. The most popular one is Budinetto, a fine slab jam-packed with excellent grade 5s and low 6s. It gets plenty of sunshine although the dominating view of the beaches and blue sea may prove to be a great distraction.

Routes

69 sport routes (3...7c)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Budinetto Main
An excellent slabby wall with fine routes in the lower grades. Some of the routes have upper...
21
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

6
La Poltrona
The main bowl has some shorts slabs on the left with a few mid-grade routes. Towering above these...
25
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

7
Biddiriscottai
Biddiriscottai is a crag of two halves: the first and most popular area is a huge cave whilst the...
23
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Level

20 mins

Dry in the Rain
sheltered
9
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  • Latest Comments

    For VILLAGE AREA

    Giť box
    "A 70m rope is required. Bottom half is interesting, and top half is a juggy play..." 29/Apr

    I wanna hold your hand
    "tough for the grade. good climbing but not 3 stars, maybe 1 star." 28/Apr top50

    Guendalina
    "Nice route, the crux is the brown streak at about two-thirds height." 13/Apr top50

    Deutsch Wall
    "Be prepared for a 50 footer if you blow any of the moves on the hard pitch E5 6..." 13/Apr top50

    Deutsch Wall
    "This route should definitely have the flutter sign. The precarious crux feels a..." 09/Apr top50

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