As you approach Cala Gonone for the first time one crag strikes you more than any other. The vast bowl of La Poltrana dominates the hillside above the town. The show-piece crag of the area provides a lot of fine slabby routes which will not suit those thuggy climbers who like juggy overhanging walls! The climbing is sustained, technical and fingery on most of the routes with some seriously thin moves on perfect rock. A day here will shred your fingers so it is best to space your visits with a day on the steeper stuff (or hard graft on the beach). The only bad thing about La Poltrana is the rather unsightly football stadium and go-kart track below which are thankfully not open in the climbing season. There are several other crags on the hillside above Cala Gonone. The most popular one is Budinetto, a fine slab jam-packed with excellent grade 5s and low 6s. It gets plenty of sunshine although the dominating view of the beaches and blue sea may prove to be a great distraction.

ROUTES

69 sport routes (3...7c) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents

Buttress (click for routes)	No. of Routes	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other	Page
Budinetto Main An excellent slabby wall with fine routes in the lower grades. Some of the routes have upper...	21			10 mins		6
La Poltrona The main bowl has some shorts slabs on the left with a few mid-grade routes. Towering above these...	25			10 mins		7
Biddiriscottai Biddiriscottai is a crag of two halves: the first and most popular area is a huge cave whilst the...	23			20 mins		9
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Deutsch Wall
"This route should definitely have the flutter sign. The precarious crux feels a..." 09/Apr

Bucio de culo
"Shiny, slippery, polished, scary, and generally not very nice" 05/Apr

L'eremita
"ps: there is a new 6a to the right of this, Ciao Alex. Was rather dusty and lic..." 28/Dec

Deutsch Wall
"The first pitch is *not* 6a; 5c at most, possibly less. Single 60m rope is enoug..." 16/Nov

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