YARNCLIFFE

A small sheltered quarry that is unfeasibly popular because of its great accessibility. If you arrive and there are more than a couple of outdoor centre/school minibuses parked in the gateway it is probably worth looking elsewhere for your sport. The quarry and nearby edge (not described here but worth a look if you like unexplored jungle) are named after the millstones that used to be quarried here; an old name for them was querns and the corruption Ôyarn\'-cliffe (and also ÔWharn\'-cliffe) indicates a location of this ancient industry. When the quarry was first developed the initial bays had a good collection of face and crack climbs that largely relied upon the recently exposed sharp edged flakes to make progress, unfortunately the battering (especially through abseiling) has led to the premature ageing of most of these climbs, perhaps an indication of the future that awaits all our favourite climbing destinations. An added problem is that cliff top erosion means that after rain the routes can be very sandy; polished holds and ball-bearings are not a good combination Ð care is required especially on the poorly protected faces. To the right of the initial bays the cliff extends away in a semicircular fashion, and although much of the rock is a bit grotty there are some admirable climbs, including the fine cracks of Fall Pipe and Zapple, and the magnificent arete of Creme de la Creme.

Routes

25 trad routes (HVD...E6) 1 boulder problem (V11) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents