CURBAR


An edge with a fierce and well-deserved reputation as a tough task master. The routes are generally hard, intimidating and strenuous and this not a place for climbers who like their sport to be elegant, dainty and air-conditioned. Many of the routes feature steep crack climbing and the lack of such features in the nation\'s climbing walls is part of the reason these feel so damn hard. Hauling up a 45-degree overhanging wall, liberally covered in bolt-ons, is not much use when the only available hold is a parallel crack slightly wider than your fist. However it is not just the cracks that are hard here, by some quirk of nature most of the other routes tend to be in the upper reaches of their respective grades and a soft-touch on Curbar is a rare find indeed. So why on earth would anyone want to come and climb here? Well, like many great challenges, the meaner the task appears at first, the greater the sense of satisfaction when you overcome it. The ‘challenges\' on Curbar are as fine as any on grit and the likes of Peapod, L\'Horla, Elder Crack, Right Eliminate, Moon Walk and Profit of Doom are an essential part of any gritstone climber\'s aspirations.

Routes

202 trad routes (D...E10)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Beech Buttress
The northern-most buttress on Curbar has an attractive hanging slab set above steeper rock. To the...
8
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

30 mins

286
Green Acres
This neat little face has some slab climbs that see occasional ascents and intervening cracks that...
9
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

30 mins

286
Beech Layback
Short quarried walls that have a small collection of fairly unremarkable climbs; on the plus side -...
9
Trad
Afternoon sun
  287
The Line and Deadbay Groove
A couple of severely neglected areas, which is a pity as there are some interesting climbs...
14
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

25 mins

288
The Cioch and Tree Wall
260m to the right and beyond some poor quarried walls is the fine jutting buttress of The Cioch....
10
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

20 mins

289
Moon Buttress
One of Curbarís finest sections with some great classics covering the historical spectrum from...
19
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

15 mins

290
Apollo Buttress
The main feature of central Curbar is the tall bulk of the Apollo Buttress with its impressive west...
21
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

15 mins

292
The Brain
This complex area consists of a series of smaller walls and buttresses scattered up and down the...
9
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

20 mins

294
Overtaker's and Potter's Wall
Long renowned for the route of the same name, this overhang-capped buttress is now best known as...
16
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

12 mins

296
Baron's Wall and Calver Wall
A fine pair of short steep walls, home to a good selection of short fingery face climbs of a less...
21
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

10 mins

298
Kayak Slab
That rarity on Curbar, a nice set of slabs. It's not all good news though, the routes are technical...
12
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

8 mins

300
Avalanche Wall
A couple of 'orange spot' climbs and a trio of desperate outings are the main draws of this...
9
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

8 mins

301
Elder Crack
A magnificent jutting buttress makes up the tallest section of Curbar and, not surprisingly, it is...
10
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

6 mins

302
L'Horla
Three action-packed classic cracks, Maupassant, LíHorla and Insanity; all short and high in the...
10
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

6 mins

304
The Toy
A series of short problems on impeccable rock. As you might expect, most of the routes feel hard...
11
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

5 mins

306
The Eliminates Wall
The magnificent Eliminates Wall, one of the most intimidating bits of grit around, is home to...
14
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

5 mins

307
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  • Latest Comments

    For CURBAR

    Diet of Worms
    "ooops - 19th May 1978 according to the Tanky's new routes book. hex 7 stacked on..." 24/Sep

    Rise of the Robots
    "Haha 6b! Someone needs to lay off the crack pipe." 10/Aug

    Moonshine
    "Amazing that there are no comments for this brillant route. Technical interestin..." 02/Jun

    Rise of the Robots
    "Yes where did this 6b come from? I would go with 5c, but this route is much easi..." 17/Apr

    Finger Distance
    "A brilliant V4/5 with pads. I suppose you could argue that pads make it "to..." 14/Jan

    Honest John
    "Short but worthwhile" 26/Oct

    The Art of White Hat Wearing
    "Landing improved a while back and now a quality, West Side Story-esque, Font 7b+..." 19/Aug

    Soyuz
    "E1 5c. More in keeping with the Curbar grading system." 04/Jul

    Saddy
    "Thought that this is quite a good route. Good line cracks that require quite a b..." 09/Jun

    Saddy
    "I thought it was rather good, for some of the reasons Fiend dislikes it. It was ..." 08/May

    Saddy
    "Your man's right. This route is bloody awful." 04/May

    Potter's Wall
    "Gear is fine at the bottom, and you don't need it at the top........ jugs galore..." 04/May

    Thirst for Glory
    "Sling held in place with wires either side make the middle section protectable b..." 30/Oct

    Kayak
    "Ok for E1, the 5b move is above a flat landing and there is a good jug straight ..." 21/Sep

    Cool Moon
    "Tom De Gay was the first person to do it without side runners." 28/Aug

    The Bear Hunter
    "A beautiful hidden gem." 15/Aug

    Insanity
    "Holy cow batman, you'll need the big guns for this one. Not one for the subtle t..." 09/Aug

    Smoke ont' Watter
    "Massive sandbag. The move onto the ledge is protectable, but I thought the top c..." 30/May

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