CURBAR


Curbar the Taskmaster has long had a reputation for fierce routes at solid grades and with good reason. Everything here tends to be intimidating, strenuous and high in the grade - soft slabby stuff is a thin on the ground! Known as 'the Cloggy of Grit', many of the routes attack tough cracks up walls that are generally steeper than those found on the other edges. Despite the stiff grades Curbar holds a set of routes as fine as any on grit. Classics such as The Peapod, L'Horla, Elder Crack, Right Eliminate, Moon Walk and Profit of Doom should be on any serious grit climber's ticklist. There are few offerings for climbers looking for lower grade climbs but P.M.C.1 is one and is probably the most popular climb on the crag.

Routes

258 trad routes (M...D)
35 boulder problems (f5...f8B)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Beech Buttress Area
The northern-most buttress on Curbar has a couple of attractive buttresses. The area can be green...
14
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

20 mins

Windy
Pillar Slab
A small buttress with a few interesting climbs. The whole area can be green after rain and in...
8
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

20 mins

Windy
Green Acres
This neat little face has some slab climbs that see occasional ascents and intervening cracks that...
9
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

18 mins

Windy
Beech Layback Area
The short walls here feature a jutting arete on the left and the quarried angular corner of Beech...
17
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

18 mins

Windy
The Deadbay
This is a deep, shady pit with a small collection of taxing routes best visit early in the season...
10
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

16 mins

Seepage
sheltered
The Cioch and Tree Wall
Just beyond Moon Buttress is the jutting buttress of The Cioch. Here are two areas with some varied...
11
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

16 mins

Windy
Moon Buttress
One of Curbar's finest sections with some great classics covering the historical spectrum from...
28
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Apollo Buttress
The main feature of central Curbar is the tall bulk of the Apollo Buttress with its impressive west...
19
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

12 mins

Windy
The Brain
The lowest buttress of this complex area is seldom busy although The Brain gets lots of ascents....
14
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

12 mins

Windy
Overtaker's Buttress and Potter's Wall
This disjointed section of the crag has the old classic of Overtaker's Buttress, the Johnny Dawes'...
19
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Diddledum Wall to Lamebrain
A series of short walls and buttresses with a few decent routes scattered amongst them.
14
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Baron's Wall and Calver Wall
A fine pair of short steep walls, home to a good selection of short fingery face climbs of a less...
20
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Flying Buttress and Quarry Wall
Two small sections of ancient quarry - a jutting buttress with a couple of decent easier routes and...
16
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

12 mins

Windy
Kayak Slab
A Curbar rarity, a set of slabs. It's not all good news though - the routes are technical and...
16
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Avalanche Wall
A couple of mid-grade climbs and a trio of desperate outings are the main draws of this...
13
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Elder Crack
This magnificent jutting buttress is the tallest section of Curbar and is home to some of its very...
8
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

10 mins

Windy
Bel Ami
Slotted between two of Curbar's most imposing buttresses is a slightly more slabby wall with some...
7
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

10 mins

Windy
L'Horla
The perfect introduction to Curbar, with three classic cracks - Maupassant, L'Horla and Insanity....
9
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

8 mins

Windy
The Toy Wall
A series of short problems on impeccable rock. As you might expect, most of the routes feel hard...
11
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

8 mins

Windy
The Eliminates Wall
The magnificent Eliminates Wall, one of the most intimidating bits of grit around, is home to...
20
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Little Rocker
A small buttress, the closest to the parking and directly above the lay-bys on to the road down to...
10
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

3 mins

Windy
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  • Latest Comments

    For CURBAR

    Happy Hart
    "Changed from E7 7a * to E8 7a *, no votes" 15/Apr

    Diet of Worms
    "ooops - 19th May 1978 according to the Tanky's new routes book. hex 7 stacked on..." 24/Sep

    Rise of the Robots
    "Haha 6b! Someone needs to lay off the crack pipe." 10/Aug

    Moonshine
    "Amazing that there are no comments for this brillant route. Technical interestin..." 02/Jun

    Rise of the Robots
    "Yes where did this 6b come from? I would go with 5c, but this route is much easi..." 17/Apr

    Finger Distance
    "A brilliant V4/5 with pads. I suppose you could argue that pads make it "to..." 14/Jan

    Honest John
    "Short but worthwhile" 26/Oct

    The Art of White Hat Wearing
    "Landing improved a while back and now a quality, West Side Story-esque, Font 7b+..." 19/Aug

    Soyuz
    "E1 5c. More in keeping with the Curbar grading system." 04/Jul

    Saddy
    "Thought that this is quite a good route. Good line cracks that require quite a b..." 09/Jun

    Saddy
    "I thought it was rather good, for some of the reasons Fiend dislikes it. It was ..." 08/May

    Saddy
    "Your man's right. This route is bloody awful." 04/May

    Potter's Wall
    "Gear is fine at the bottom, and you don't need it at the top........ jugs galore..." 04/May

    Thirst for Glory
    "Sling held in place with wires either side make the middle section protectable b..." 30/Oct

    Kayak
    "Ok for E1, the 5b move is above a flat landing and there is a good jug straight ..." 21/Sep

    Cool Moon
    "Tom De Gay was the first person to do it without side runners." 28/Aug

    The Bear Hunter
    "A beautiful hidden gem." 15/Aug

    Insanity
    "Holy cow batman, you'll need the big guns for this one. Not one for the subtle t..." 09/Aug

    Smoke ont' Watter
    "Massive sandbag. The move onto the ledge is protectable, but I thought the top c..." 30/May

    Grooved Arete
    "PGE shows it going right, which i did but not before it spat me off first attemp..." 03/May

    L'Horla
    "well protected all the way. a friend 4 will just fit in the notch and has been ..." 27/Apr

    The Peapod
    "*should read 'turning round to face left'*" 20/Oct top50

    Done Years Ago
    "Surpisingly good and relatively clean. The upper arete is a little gritty, but ..." 16/Oct

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