An edge with a fierce and well-deserved reputation as a tough task master. The routes are generally hard, intimidating and strenuous and this not a place for climbers who like their sport to be elegant, dainty and air-conditioned. Many of the routes feature steep crack climbing and the lack of such features in the nation\'s climbing walls is part of the reason these feel so damn hard. Hauling up a 45-degree overhanging wall, liberally covered in bolt-ons, is not much use when the only available hold is a parallel crack slightly wider than your fist. However it is not just the cracks that are hard here, by some quirk of nature most of the other routes tend to be in the upper reaches of their respective grades and a soft-touch on Curbar is a rare find indeed. So why on earth would anyone want to come and climb here? Well, like many great challenges, the meaner the task appears at first, the greater the sense of satisfaction when you overcome it. The Ôchallenges\' on Curbar are as fine as any on grit and the likes of Peapod, L\'Horla, Elder Crack, Right Eliminate, Moon Walk and Profit of Doom are an essential part of any gritstone climber\'s aspirations.
Routes
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202 trad routes (D...E10) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Beech Buttress The northern-most buttress on Curbar has an attractive hanging slab set above steeper rock. To the... |
8 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 30 mins |
Windy | 286 |
| Green Acres This neat little face has some slab climbs that see occasional ascents and intervening cracks that... |
9 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 30 mins |
Windy | 286 |
| Beech Layback Short quarried walls that have a small collection of fairly unremarkable climbs; on the plus side -... |
9 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Windy | 287 | |
| The Line and Deadbay Groove A couple of severely neglected areas, which is a pity as there are some interesting climbs... |
14 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 25 mins |
Windy | 288 |
| The Cioch and Tree Wall 260m to the right and beyond some poor quarried walls is the fine jutting buttress of The Cioch.... |
10 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 20 mins |
Windy | 289 |
| Moon Buttress One of Curbar’s finest sections with some great classics covering the historical spectrum from... |
19 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 15 mins |
Windy | 290 |
| Apollo Buttress The main feature of central Curbar is the tall bulk of the Apollo Buttress with its impressive west... |
21 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 15 mins |
Windy | 292 |
| The Brain This complex area consists of a series of smaller walls and buttresses scattered up and down the... |
9 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 20 mins |
Windy | 294 |
| Overtaker's and Potter's Wall Long renowned for the route of the same name, this overhang-capped buttress is now best known as... |
16 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 12 mins |
Windy | 296 |
| Baron's Wall and Calver Wall A fine pair of short steep walls, home to a good selection of short fingery face climbs of a less... |
21 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 10 mins |
Windy | 298 |
| Kayak Slab That rarity on Curbar, a nice set of slabs. It's not all good news though, the routes are technical... |
12 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 8 mins |
Windy | 300 |
| Avalanche Wall A couple of 'orange spot' climbs and a trio of desperate outings are the main draws of this... |
9 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 8 mins |
Windy | 301 |
| Elder Crack A magnificent jutting buttress makes up the tallest section of Curbar and, not surprisingly, it is... |
10 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 6 mins |
Windy | 302 |
| L'Horla Three action-packed classic cracks, Maupassant, L’Horla and Insanity; all short and high in the... |
10 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 6 mins |
Windy | 304 |
| The Toy A series of short problems on impeccable rock. As you might expect, most of the routes feel hard... |
11 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 5 mins |
Windy | 306 |
| The Eliminates Wall The magnificent Eliminates Wall, one of the most intimidating bits of grit around, is home to... |
14 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 5 mins |
Windy | 307 |
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