GARDOMS


Gardoms tends to be one of those crags which people visit to do a particular route rather than spend a whole day and more often than not it is Moyer's Buttress that is top of the hit list. This is indeed a great classic, however there are plenty more worthwhile offerings spread about amongst the buttresses and those who are prepared to pick and choose their base of operations will be rewarded with some delightful and secluded routes. By a quirk of nature the crag excels at the grade E3 5c with Sleeping Sickness, Stormbringer, Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset all being great examples of the grade. The climbing they offer tends to be both delicate and strenuous, often with barely adequate and thought-provoking protection. With the exception of the climbs around Apple Buttress area it is rare to have company on the edge, though in many ways this adds to the appeal since it makes a nice change from the circus atmosphere at the popular end of Stanage and on Froggatt.

Routes

113 trad routes (D...E8)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Black Wall and Overhang Buttress
The first section of Gardom's is not the most welcoming bit of rock, with large damp overhangs,...
18
Trad
No sun
Level

10 mins

sheltered
Nowanda
A small buttress which has a green north-facing slab (with a less well-known Moyer's Climb) and a...
12
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

10 mins

sheltered
Garden Face and Och Aye Wall
A blocky buttress which is split by several cracks and has a nice collection of easier climbs....
10
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

10 mins

sheltered
Moyer's Buttress
The finest buttress at this end of the crag is also home to one of the Peak’s most famous...
7
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

12 mins

sheltered
Elliott's Buttress
The classic E1, Eye of Faith, makes a great ‘other route for the day’ if you have come to Gardom's...
5
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

12 mins

sheltered
Oread Buttress
A small, isolated buttress, halfway between the more conspicuous outcrops of Moyer's Buttress and...
2
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

20 mins

sheltered
Undertaker's Buttress
Another small, isolated buttress, most notable for its impressive jutting beak of rock. Its...
3
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

20 mins

sheltered
Gardoms Unconquerable
An isolated ancient quarried section which is almost impossible to view from anywhere.
5
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

20 mins

sheltered
Tree Buttress
A broken buttress split by a wide central ledge and with the eponymous tree. It has some...
6
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

20 mins

sheltered
Crocodile
This superb open wall has something to offer those after high grade wall climbs though all those...
9
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

20 mins

sheltered
Grooved Wall
Another isolated buttress with a classic E3 5c and to its right a series of pleasant crack and...
7
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

20 mins

sheltered
Apple Buttress
One of the best bits of rock on the cliff, and popular because of the classics of N.M.C. Crack and...
16
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

20 mins

sheltered
Pillar Wall
The main edge gets swamped by trees after Apple Buttress and offers little quality climbing....
4
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

25 mins

sheltered
Moorside Rocks
The southern extremity of Gardom's is a neat little outcrop, like a Dartmoor Tor, featuring rounded...
9
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

30 mins

sheltered
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  • Latest Comments

    For GARDOMS

    Bitter
    "v.safe, great move(s) - if only it were longer" 21/May

    Landsick
    "Did Landsick, Moyers and Eye of Faith last Saturday; this one was by far the har..." 20/Sep

    Apple Arete
    "yer very nice in the upper section but very escapable to the rght in bottom half..." 03/May

    Crottle
    "That about sums it up" 29/Mar

    Tree Groove
    "Probably HS 4b with a couple of big cams for the traverse. Actually, probably HS..." 05/Oct

    Gardom's Unconquerable
    "Excellent route, the bottom flake is hard work and interest is maintained to the..." 29/May

    Make it Snappy
    "I agree, the description is perhaps somewhat misleading. It may have a big fall ..." 29/Apr

    Gardom's Unconquerable
    "Its only bold if you don't spot the hidden gear!" 23/Apr

    Finale Groove
    "I don't agree with Phil Lyon, there is loads of bomber gear placements! First pi..." 21/Mar

    Make it Snappy
    "This is an awesome route, hard but pretty safe with a big fall out zone. Not su..." 01/Dec

    Waterloo Sunset
    "harder than it looks and a fall from the crux would put you near the ground. int..." 20/Nov

    The Enigma Variation
    "A good little route that packs it in on very steep rock. Reasonable cams and hol..." 16/Aug

    Moyer's Buttress
    "No in situ sling. But a hands-off kneebar rest by the block. Ace!" 06/Aug top50

    Layback Crack
    "That should say "This is a real pig"." 27/Jun

    Babylon's Groove
    "Much more awkward at the crux than Finale Groove" 23/Jun

    Giant's Staircase
    "bridging was more fun than the layback" 04/Jun

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