Gardoms tends to be one of those crags which people visit to do a particular route rather than spend a whole day and more often than not it is Moyer\'s Buttress that is top of the hit list. This is indeed a great classic, however there are plenty more worthwhile offerings spread about amongst the buttresses and those who are prepared to pick and choose their base of operations will be rewarded with some delightful and secluded routes. By a quirk of nature the crag excels at the grade E3 5c with Sleeping Sickness, Stormbringer, Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset all being great examples of the grade. The climbing they offer tends to be both delicate and strenuous, often with barely adequate and thought-provoking protection. With the exception of the climbs around Apple Buttress area it is rare to have company on the edge, though in many ways this adds to the appeal since it makes a nice change from the circus atmosphere at the popular end of Stanage and on Froggatt.
Routes
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113 trad routes (D...E8) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |         | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Black Wall and Overhang Buttress The first section of Gardom's is not the most welcoming bit of rock, with large damp overhangs,... |
18 | Trad |
No sun |
Level 10 mins |
320 | |
| Nowanda A small buttress which has a green north-facing slab (with a less well-known Moyer's Climb) and a... |
12 | Trad |
Sun and shade |
Level 10 mins |
322 | |
| Garden Face and Och Aye Wall A blocky buttress which is split by several cracks and has a nice collection of easier climbs.... |
10 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 10 mins |
323 | |
| Moyer's Buttress The finest buttress at this end of the crag is also home to one of the Peak’s most famous... |
7 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 12 mins |
324 | |
| Elliott's Buttress The classic E1, Eye of Faith, makes a great ‘other route for the day’ if you have come to Gardom's... |
5 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 12 mins |
325 | |
| Oread Buttress A small, isolated buttress, halfway between the more conspicuous outcrops of Moyer's Buttress and... |
2 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 20 mins |
326 | |
| Undertaker's Buttress Another small, isolated buttress, most notable for its impressive jutting beak of rock. Its... |
3 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 20 mins |
326 | |
| Gardoms Unconquerable An isolated ancient quarried section which is almost impossible to view from anywhere. |
5 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 20 mins |
327 | |
| Tree Buttress A broken buttress split by a wide central ledge and with the eponymous tree. It has some... |
6 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 20 mins |
327 | |
| Crocodile This superb open wall has something to offer those after high grade wall climbs though all those... |
9 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 20 mins |
328 | |
| Grooved Wall Another isolated buttress with a classic E3 5c and to its right a series of pleasant crack and... |
7 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 20 mins |
330 | |
| Apple Buttress One of the best bits of rock on the cliff, and popular because of the classics of N.M.C. Crack and... |
16 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 20 mins |
330 | |
| Pillar Wall The main edge gets swamped by trees after Apple Buttress and offers little quality climbing.... |
4 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 25 mins |
332 | |
| Moorside Rocks The southern extremity of Gardom's is a neat little outcrop, like a Dartmoor Tor, featuring rounded... |
9 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 30 mins |
332 | |
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