BIRCHEN

Birchen Edge (not as it is so often called Birchens Edge) is one of the more popular edges in the Peak mainly due to the plethora of excellent low-grade routes found here. Because of this it has always been popular with groups of one kind or another and this popularity has led to the polishing of many of the holds. This is at least partly the reason the place has always had a reputation for under-graded routes. Hopefully the wide consultation we have undergone in the writing of this guide will have removed most of these anomalies. The rock is millstone grit of the expected quality; rough, rounded and well-cracked. Many of the routes are characterised by steep, undercut starts and it is often the case that leaving the ground is the biggest challenge. This explains why there are some routes with odd grades like VDiff 4c and HVS 6a; make the start move and you will most likely find a pleasant slabby wall above. The popularity with beginners can mean that routes get taken over with top-ropes and that many popular ones become sandy from dirty boots. If you find the main section of the cliff rather busy, a short walk to the right will locate some secluded buttresses and, in all probability, a bit of solitude. The routes at Birchen tend to have names of a nautical nature linked to the monument on the cliff top that was erected to celebrate Nelson\'s famous victory at the Battle of Trafalgar.

Routes

157 trad routes (M...E6) 5 boulder problems (V3...V11) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents