BIRCHEN


Birchen Edge (not as it is so often called Birchens Edge) is one of the more popular edges in the Peak mainly due to the plethora of excellent low-grade routes found here. Because of this it has always been popular with groups of one kind or another and this popularity has led to the polishing of many of the holds. This is at least partly the reason the place has always had a reputation for under-graded routes. Hopefully the wide consultation we have undergone in the writing of this guide will have removed most of these anomalies. The rock is millstone grit of the expected quality; rough, rounded and well-cracked. Many of the routes are characterised by steep, undercut starts and it is often the case that leaving the ground is the biggest challenge. This explains why there are some routes with odd grades like VDiff 4c and HVS 6a; make the start move and you will most likely find a pleasant slabby wall above. The popularity with beginners can mean that routes get taken over with top-ropes and that many popular ones become sandy from dirty boots. If you find the main section of the cliff rather busy, a short walk to the right will locate some secluded buttresses and, in all probability, a bit of solitude. The routes at Birchen tend to have names of a nautical nature linked to the monument on the cliff top that was erected to celebrate Nelson\'s famous victory at the Battle of Trafalgar.

Routes

157 trad routes (M...E6)
5 boulder problems (V3...V11)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Far Left
The left-hand extremity of the cliff is less popular than the rest of Birchen Edge and as such is a...
9
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

335
The Crow's Nest and Emma's Slab
The first section of the main part of the cliff is home to several worthwhile climbs, mostly cracks...
17
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

335
Nelson's Slab
An attractive hanging slab that is difficult to access, and a couple of fine buttresses further...
10
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

336
Sail Buttress
A fine piece of rock with a steep left-hand (north-facing) wall and an attractive valley face which...
12
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

338
Orpheus Wall
Orpheus Wall has a couple of arduous outings and is topped by the conspicuous monument that...
9
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

339
Powder Monkey Parade Area
One of the more popular beginnerís routes around is up the clean (and slippery) slab of The...
14
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

340
Trafalgar Wall
This fine slab, set above an undercut base and split centrally by a prominent wide crack, is the...
6
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

341
Stoker's Wall
A short wall split by a series of cracks and with a number of low grade climbs. The area is good...
14
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

342
Copenhagen Wall and The Fo'c'sle
The low, undercut face of Copenhagen Wall used to be shorter, the erosion of the ground in front of...
16
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

343
Tar's Wall and Barbette Buttress
A series of short slabby walls and grooves ending at a prominent flying prow resting on a large...
22
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

344
Seasick Slab
Up and right of the prow of Barbette Buttress is a short clean wall above a level platform. This...
8
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

345
Wooden Leg Wall
A few interesting routes in an out-of-the-way setting, you should not have to queue for these. The...
9
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

346
Kismet Buttress
Birchenís last gasp is not a bad effort; sheltered and usually quiet, the place is worth a couple...
16
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

347
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  • Latest Comments

    For BIRCHEN

    The Crow's Nest
    "This is a proper VS with VS moves all the way and bit out of character to the ot..." 03/Jun

    The Prow
    "In reply to Charles, it was never listed in any of the earlier books so we clim..." 30/Apr

    The Prow
    "A most unlikely first ascent date" 30/Apr

    Bosun's Nose
    "Bouldermat or good spotting essential for the start. Only real protection comes ..." 06/Jul

    Hornblower
    "Solid V5 as per the description I think. And the problem doesn't end quite as ne..." 26/Feb

    Old Codger
    "First ascent Gary Gibson 2.4.79" 25/Jul

    Victory Vice
    "Start right in the corner to get the most out of the route, extend to the finish..." 15/Jul

    Nelson's Nemesis
    "Excellent climb! Not sure which bit is the polished button though. Moves out und..." 14/Jul

    Fuse
    "Me and my mate Bal did this route and thouht it was well good. I lead and though..." 11/Jul

    Telescope Tunnel
    "I tried this last weak - as the crack tightened up in the middle - i went back o..." 08/Jul

    Fo'c'sle Wall
    "Great little route - worth more stars if it weren't so escapable, although the e..." 30/Jun

    Dead Eye
    "V3 I thought. Very tricksy (but easy once sussed) 6a, I thought it was all over..." 26/Apr

    Victory Crack
    "Fist jams and gear galore but awkward nonetheless!" 09/Apr

    Stoker's Wall
    "The top out requires neat and confident footwork if you are short (and can't rea..." 28/Mar

    Barnacle Bulge
    "Is there a missing foothold on this route? I've watched 7 or 8 people try this o..." 21/Mar

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