BIRCHEN


Birchen remains one of the most popular venues in the Peak due to its friendly atmosphere and good collection of low-grade routes. The place has always been a favourite with groups and this long-standing popularity has led to the wearing of many of the already rounded holds. Quite a number of the routes have slippery and awkward starts but get yourself going and things often ease rapidly with height. Summer weekends can be extremely busy, but if you leave the main section and head rightwards to the more secluded buttresses, you will probably find a bit of solitude.
The majority of routes at Birchen have names of a nautical nature linked to the monument on the cliff top, erected to celebrate Nelson's victory at the Battle of Trafalgar back in 1805.

Routes

156 trad routes (M...E6)
40 boulder problems (f3...f7C+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Far Left
The short walls at the left-hand extremity of the cliff are less popular than the rest of Birchen...
11
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

Windy
Emma's Slab
The first section of the main part of the cliff is home to several worthwhile climbs, mostly cracks...
25
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

Windy
Nelson's Slab
A couple of fine buttresses and an attractive hanging slab that is difficult to access ensure this...
16
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Sail Buttress
With a steep north-facing wall and an attractive valley face, Sail Buttress is a fine lump of rock...
18
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
The Promenade to Trafalgar Wall
One of the most popular beginners' areas on grit with the fine clean (and slippery) slab of The...
28
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Stoker's Wall
A short wall split by a series of cracks and with a bunch of low grade climbs. The area provides a...
14
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Copenhagen Wall
The low, undercut face of Copenhagen Wall is taller than it used to be - erosion of the ground in...
18
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Tar's Wall to Barbette Buttress
To the right of the Fo'c'sle area is series of short slabby walls and grooves ending at a prominent...
26
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Seasick Slab
Up and right of the prow of Barbette Buttress is a short clean wall of lovely rock above a level...
10
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Wooden Leg Wall
A few interesting routes in an out-of-the-way setting. The place gets a bit overgrown with bracken...
10
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Kismet Buttress
Birchen's last gasp is not a bad effort. Sheltered and usually quiet, the place is worth a couple...
20
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
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  • Latest Comments

    For BIRCHEN

    Implosion
    "Shame. One of my few (very insignificant) claims to fame. Never mind. A.Russell..." 15/Apr

    Implosion
    "Changed from HVS 5c to f5+, 0% of 5 votes for f5+, 0% of 5 votes for" 23/Mar

    The Crow's Nest
    "This is a proper VS with VS moves all the way and bit out of character to the ot..." 03/Jun

    The Prow
    "In reply to Charles, it was never listed in any of the earlier books so we clim..." 30/Apr

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