A bit of a winter climbing backwater, Dove crag is the classic ice route of the area but is rarely in condition. Recent developments on Chaple crags and around Birkness Combe have added some more reliable mixed buttress routes to the area. In bad weather the valley is best accessed via Cockermouth as the passes are closed quite quickly when it snows. If conditions aren't found in the valley then it is not far to both Gable Crag and Borrowdale from the head of the valley.
Routes
|
29 winter routes (I...VI) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |        | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other |
| Birkness Combe NY 175145 600m NE Facing Being high and NE facing these crags offer some good ice routes and the... |
8 | Winter |
Morning sun |
Uphill 90 mins |
Windy |
| Brantbield Crag NY 175145 600m N Facing. The crag just left of Eagle crag. Approach: as for Birkness Combe |
1 | Winter |
No sun |
Uphill 90 mins |
Windy |
| Chapel Crags NY 170150 700m NW Facing Green, grassy and slow to dry - an ideal winter venue. Approach:... |
7 | Winter |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 80 mins |
Windy |
| Dove Crag (Buttermere) NY 177205 700m. NE Facing. These crags are well hidden and as a result perhaps don't attract the... |
4 | Winter |
Early morning sun |
Uphill 90 mins |
Windy |
| Grey Crag (Buttermere) GR.172147 550m. E Facing. Rare conditions bring the two buttress routes on the crag into... |
2 | Winter |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Uphill 90 mins |
Windy |
| Haystacks NY 197132 400m N Facing A large area of Broken rock with a number of easy gullies splitting the... |
4 | Winter |
Early morning sun |
Uphill 45 mins |
Windy |
| Hobcarton Crag NY 187221 600m. N Facing. A high north facing crag above the Whinlatter Pass. Approach: A... |
2 | Winter |
No sun |
Uphill 60 mins |
Windy |
| Newlands Hause NY 193175 350m NW Facing. A very popular route when its in condition. A good introduction to... |
1 | Winter |
Evening sun |
Uphill 5 mins |
Windy |
| Sourmilk Gill NY 173163 100m NE Facing The long Gill at the NW end of Buttermere, a long cold spell is needed... |
1 | Winter |
Early morning sun |
Uphill 20 mins |
Windy |
| Goat Crag (Buttermere) NY 190163 300m SE Facing. The Broken crag above the Hassness Campsite Approach: From the... |
1 | Winter |
Early morning sun |
Uphill 25 mins |
Windy |
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