BUTTERMERE


A bit of a winter climbing backwater, Dove crag is the classic ice route of the area but is rarely in condition. Recent developments on Chaple crags and around Birkness Combe have added some more reliable mixed buttress routes to the area. In bad weather the valley is best accessed via Cockermouth as the passes are closed quite quickly when it snows. If conditions aren't found in the valley then it is not far to both Gable Crag and Borrowdale from the head of the valley.

Routes

29 winter routes (I...VI)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Birkness Combe
NY 175145 600m NE Facing Being high and NE facing these crags offer some good ice routes and the...
8
Winter
Morning sun
Uphill

90 mins

Brantbield Crag
NY 175145 600m N Facing. The crag just left of Eagle crag. Approach: as for Birkness Combe
1
Winter
No sun
Uphill

90 mins

Chapel Crags
NY 170150 700m NW Facing Green, grassy and slow to dry - an ideal winter venue. Approach:...
7
Winter
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

80 mins

Dove Crag (Buttermere)
NY 177205 700m. NE Facing. These crags are well hidden and as a result perhaps don't attract the...
4
Winter
Early morning sun
Uphill

90 mins

Grey Crag (Buttermere)
GR.172147 550m. E Facing. Rare conditions bring the two buttress routes on the crag into...
2
Winter
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

90 mins

Haystacks
NY 197132 400m N Facing A large area of Broken rock with a number of easy gullies splitting the...
4
Winter
Early morning sun
Uphill

45 mins

Hobcarton Crag
NY 187221 600m. N Facing. A high north facing crag above the Whinlatter Pass. Approach: A...
2
Winter
No sun
Uphill

60 mins

Newlands Hause
NY 193175 350m NW Facing. A very popular route when its in condition. A good introduction to...
1
Winter
Evening sun
Uphill

5 mins

Sourmilk Gill
NY 173163 100m NE Facing The long Gill at the NW end of Buttermere, a long cold spell is needed...
1
Winter
Early morning sun
Uphill

20 mins

Goat Crag (Buttermere)
NY 190163 300m SE Facing. The Broken crag above the Hassness Campsite Approach: From the...
1
Winter
Early morning sun
Uphill

25 mins

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