CHATSWORTH


Retiring and evermore neglected despite our best efforts, Chatsworth is the Cinderella of the Eastern Edges. It faces northwest and only receives sun on summer afternoons. It might be expected that the proximity of the A619 with its never-ending stream of traffic would spoil the cliff, but the thick tree cover muffles the noise. The slope below the cliff is overgrown by the start of the summer, making navigation along the foot of the cliff tricky. Also large trees growing close to the cliff face have encouraged lichen growth in recent years. Despite these negative aspects, under the right conditions climbing here is pleasant as the main buttresses escape the worst of the vegetation. The best routes here are the equal of any on grit, and any true gritstoner will one day have to bite the bullet and throw themselves at the likes of Vibrio, Emerald Crack, Pearls and the intimidating battle of Sentinel Crack. If you like to climb away from the crowds it is worth putting Chatsworth on your list. It is possible to have the place pretty much to yourself, and from the top of the buttresses the crowds on nearby Birchen are visible.

Routes

67 trad routes (D...E6)
2 boulder problems (f6A...f7A+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Mort Wall
The first walls have a small set of pleasant though often green routes generally in the lower...
9
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

8 mins

sheltered
Sentinel Buttress
The imposing buttress that looks out over the collapsing bridge. Sentinel Crack is the one to do,...
14
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

8 mins

sheltered
High Step to Spiral Route
Right of Sentinel Crack are some pleasant climbs but sadly they are rarely in prime condition. Even...
9
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

9 mins

sheltered
Emerald Crack
This tall buttress is home to the classic struggle of Emerald Crack and the excellent face climb of...
10
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

8 mins

sheltered
Vibrio Area
Continuing along the crag from Emerald Crack another fine buttress appears out of the undergrowth...
11
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

8 mins

sheltered
Oak Tree Climb
A neglected set of routes on a neglected crag - a place for peace and quiet, plus moss and...
5
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

9 mins

sheltered
Emperor Buttress
The final buttress has some pleasant, if grunty, low and mid-grade climbs that follow great lines,...
11
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
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  • Latest Comments

    For CHATSWORTH

    Emperor Crack
    "Changed from VS 4b * to VS 4c *, 0% of 4 votes for 4c" 23/Mar

    Desperot
    "A 3* Font 7a in reality, and almost always dry when the rest of the peak is gopp..." 25/Aug

    Emperor Crack
    "Defiantly best to stay on the outside but the pro isn't great and looking at a f..." 15/Mar

    Mort Wall
    "Very green looking at the mo, but clean enough where it mattered. Not a bad rou..." 18/Oct

    Sentinel Crack
    "Went to Chatsworth with the intention of doing this and puppet crack today. Both..." 29/Aug

    Mort Wall
    "Went left out of niche, getting back into main flake/crack was awkward and off b..." 21/Jul

    Tree Crack
    "Cleaned again for summer 2009. Quality! It deserves one star for those who strug..." 08/Apr

    Pearls
    "Was probably just having a good day, but thought this was really straight forwar..." 17/Jul

    Mort Wall
    "Really good route worth a visit just for this. Mild for HVS, bomber wires prote..." 11/Jul

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