DOVESTONE TOR


Dovestone Tor is part of a longer series of edges overlooking Derwent Reservoir, and collectively known as Derwent Edge. The Tor is the most significant of the edges and is well worth a visit if you want to escape the crowds of Froggatt and Stanage and to experience climbing in the Peak as it was fifty years ago. The cliff is basically a long west-facing wall riddled with many circular holes. The rock can be dirty, especially after rain, but the outlook is as fine as any cliff in the Peak and sunny afternoons spent here can be enthralling with superb views out into the wilderness of Bleaklow. Developments in the mid-1990s dramatically increased the number of routes and brought to light inaccuracies in the existing information. In the earlier days of the exploration of the edge, teams of climbers claimed routes without leaving precise details of who did what. In particular a team of Ted Howard, Barry Pedlar, and Tanky Stokes climbed routes attributed here to 'Ted Howard et al.' although exactly who led what is not recorded. Many of the new climbs, described here for the first time, will have been climbed in the past, especially the easier lines. Any information on these would be gratefully received. Some of the climbs described here might not be of the quality you might expect in a selected routes guide, but as they have never been listed elsewhere, it was felt appropriate to include a wide selection here.

Routes

106 trad routes (M...E5)
3 boulder problems (?...?)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Back Tor
To the north of Dovestone Tor, the flagged path rises steadily up toward the conspicuous trig point...
11
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

30 mins

73
Titania Area
The left-hand side of the crag has a series of low walls with a collection of short climbs....
23
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

40 mins

74
The Great Buttress
This is the appropriately named dominant feature of the crag. The long routes here mostly provide...
22
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

40 mins

76
Gargoyle and Route 1 Buttresses
Gargoyle Buttress features a slab on its left, a crenellated tower in the centre, and a walled-in...
20
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

40 mins

78
Upper Buttress
Above and right of the main edge is a smaller cliff of excellent quality rock. This has a maximum...
33
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

40 mins

80
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  • Latest Comments

    For DOVESTONE TOR

    Great Buttress
    "Great, great route - A wonderfully relentless pump, and I was mighty glad that I..." 05/Oct top50

    Mock Turtle
    "i don't know if this is the same route i did with Chris Rhoads and Anthony Addis..." 13/Apr

    Sforzando
    "Crosses overhang from jams via a small fingerhold and toe locks to reach a flake..." 23/Feb

    Stingray
    "The crack was ok (I've got big hands but my partner is normal-to-small!), but fo..." 04/Sep

    Tight 'uns
    "The loose block is no longer there - beware of the rubble left on the ledge." 14/Jun

    Iltis
    "Quite stiff for HS 4b, if you can't reach the jugs from below (neither I nor my ..." 28/Jul

    Stingray
    "Another Chris Craggs jamming crack - maybe for future guides you could take some..." 17/Sep

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