BLACK ROCKS


Black Rocks is a fine but somewhat neglected cliff in the Southern Peak away from the better-known gritstone crags. It sits proudly on a hill above Cromford and near the limestone crags of High Tor and Wild Cat. The cliff has a reasonable selection of lower grade climbs, some good orange-spot routes and a whole bunch of the really hard stuff up the bald and blank aretes and walls. It is somewhat lacking in the red-spot grades but there is the classic Promontory Traverse for compensation.

Routes

92 trad routes (M...E9)
9 boulder problems (?...?)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Railway Slab
The first climbing is by the High Peak Trail that runs along under the crag.The left-hand piece of...
13
Boulder
Sun and shade
Level

1 min

sheltered
364
New Year Buttress
The far left-hand end of the crag has some excellent lower grade routes, a couple of which are...
10
Trad
No sun
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
366
Central Buttress
The attractive slabby face of Central Buttress with the conspicuous tooth of the Stonnis Pinnacle...
8
Trad
No sun
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
367
The Promontory
The huge jutting prow of The Promontory is one of the finest buttresses anywhere on grit and has a...
13
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
368
Sand Buttress and Lean Man's
More typical Black Rocks fare; good beefy VS cracks interspersed with blank walls and rounded...
20
Trad
No sun
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
370
Finale Slab and Gaia
A contrasting set of routes from modern desperates, through to some old bald slabs and a fair...
13
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
372
Birch Tree Wall Area
The attractive west-facing walls are the first to be reached and are arguably the cliff’s finest...
16
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
374
The Block
Behind the right-hand edge of the cliff, and directly beyond the approach gully, is the retiring...
8
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
375
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  • Latest Comments

    For BLACK ROCKS

    Queen's Parlour Gully
    "Great climb, I needed to get my confidence back on grit and this was just right ..." 06/May

    Lone Tree Groove
    "Getting a bit polished now...but good fun all the same. Bit of a grunt onto the ..." 29/Jan

    Lone Tree Gully
    "nice route, plenty of bridging if you want it. I think S4a is about right, altho..." 16/Oct

    Queen's Parlour Slab
    "You are joking right? The traverse has bomber big cams and is 4b, the slab above..." 18/Apr

    Lean Man's Climb
    "In 1960, I was intrigued by the characteristic elephant's ear. I sorted that aft..." 26/Dec

    Gaia
    "yeah the fall at the start of hard grit stopped me even considering doing it, ev..." 25/Aug

    Stonnis Crack
    "Not as hard as it felt at the time :-) A good finish is to go up the arete on t..." 24/Aug

    Blind Man's Crack
    "I'll be honest- I enjoyed this route. Earns it's star, imho." 23/Aug

    Shredded Feet
    "Amazing!" 12/May

    Curving Arete
    "Overall this felt easier and safer than Demon Rib for me. One pad and a good spo..." 03/Dec

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