BLACK ROCKS


Black Rocks is a fine but often neglected cliff. It sits proudly on a hill above Cromford and not far from the limestone crags of High Tor, Willersley and Wild Cat. The cliff has a reasonable selection of lower grade climbs, some good mid-grade routes and a whole bunch of the really hard stuff up the bald and blank aretes, slabs and walls. It is somewhat lacking in the lower extreme grades but there is the ultra-classic sideways shuffler of Promontory Traverse as some compensation.
The rock is very even-textured gritstone, almost devoid of big pebbles and often smoother than elsewhere. This gives climbing that is often strenuous, precarious and rounded in the extreme, with many flaring breaks and sloping holds. Getting your hands on a full set of cams, including some big ones, is a good idea before a visit.

Routes

101 trad routes (M...D)
14 boulder problems (f3...f7C)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Railway Slab
The first climbing is by the High Peak Trail that runs along under the crag.The left-hand piece of...
13
Boulder
Sun and shade
Level

1 min

sheltered
Queen's Parlour
The far left-hand end of the crag has some nice lower grade routes, a couple of which are popular...
14
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Central Buttress
The attractive slabby face of Central Buttress with the tooth of the Stonnis Pinnacle is home to a...
6
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

8 mins

sheltered
The Promontory
The huge jutting prow of the Promontory is one of the tallest buttresses on grit and has a...
14
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

8 mins

sheltered
Stonnis Buttress to Lean Man's Climb
More typical Black Rocks fare; good beefy Orange Spot cracks interspersed with desperate blank...
15
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Fat Man's Area
Obviously named in a time when political correctness didn't exist - a deep green rift with several...
10
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

6 mins

sheltered
Finale Wall
A series of bold or very bold faces split by arduous wide cracks. Few of the routes see many...
9
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

6 mins

sheltered
Birch Tree Wall
The attractive west-facing walls are the first to be reached and are arguably the cliff's finest...
22
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
The Block
Behind the right-hand edge of the cliff, directly beyond the approach gully and tucked away in a...
11
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

8 mins

sheltered
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  • Latest Comments

    For BLACK ROCKS

    Left Promontory Gully
    "Changed from D 3a to D 3a, no votes" 23/Mar

    Queen's Parlour Gully
    "Great climb, I needed to get my confidence back on grit and this was just right ..." 06/May

    Lone Tree Groove
    "Getting a bit polished now...but good fun all the same. Bit of a grunt onto the ..." 29/Jan

    Lone Tree Gully
    "nice route, plenty of bridging if you want it. I think S4a is about right, altho..." 16/Oct

    Queen's Parlour Slab
    "You are joking right? The traverse has bomber big cams and is 4b, the slab above..." 18/Apr

    Lean Man's Climb
    "In 1960, I was intrigued by the characteristic elephant's ear. I sorted that aft..." 26/Dec

    Gaia
    "yeah the fall at the start of hard grit stopped me even considering doing it, ev..." 25/Aug

    Stonnis Crack
    "Not as hard as it felt at the time :-) A good finish is to go up the arete on t..." 24/Aug

    Blind Man's Crack
    "I'll be honest- I enjoyed this route. Earns it's star, imho." 23/Aug

    Shredded Feet
    "Amazing!" 12/May

    Curving Arete
    "Overall this felt easier and safer than Demon Rib for me. One pad and a good spo..." 03/Dec

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