STONEY


Stoney is a crag which most climbers will encounter at some stage in their climbing career. This could be an early visit to tick the many mid-grade classic trad routes like Padme, Pearly Gates, Froth and Sin, or it could be at a later stage, as a seasoned campaigner coming to do battle with the essential yardstick routes like Scoop Wall, Our Father, Bitterfingers, Wee Doris and Oliver. Many folks' initial experiences at Stoney are off-putting - too much polish on the easy routes and too many hard moves on the hard routes. This is not always helped by the traffic noise though at least the quarrying has stopped. However, the one thing that all climbers who have experienced the fine climbing on the crag will agree on - the routes are certainly memorable. Nothing here drops into the done-once-quickly-forgotten category that might be levelled at routes in nearby Horseshoe. The best advice is to come here and try the routes for yourself with an open mind, but be prepared for the odd bit of loose rock, polished foothold, occasional awkward runner placements and some pretty solid grades. The crag has been an icon of Peak climbing for years - long may this continue.

Routes

18 trad routes (HVS...E6)
1 boulder problem (f7A+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
-
^
^
^
 
Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
The Electric Quarry
This quarry contains arguably the finest wall at Stoney, but in its least-pleasant setting. There...
13
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

sheltered
The Slurper
Up the slope to the right of the quarry is a long wall running out to the jutting tower of Mortuary...
5
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

sheltered
Mortuary Steps
The name is macabre, but the reality is less intimidating, especially the fine HVS up the centre of...
7
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

The Triglyph
This isolated tower of rock has three classic old crack-climbs (mostly) with a classic old first...
4
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

12 mins

Prayer Wheel Wall
The ever-popular and well-sheltered Prayer Wheel Wall is home to Padme and Mani which get plenty of...
19
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
Pearly Gates
The scrappy looking area between Padme and Gabriel and the Pearly Gates is actually worth a second...
7
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
Carl's Wark
Below Prayer Wheel Wall is a hidden bay with a steep back wall. The easy access to the top has made...
10
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
Minus Ten Wall
The Minus Ten Area is another long-time training venue for the hard-core. However, these days most...
9
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Medusa Bay
This typical Stoney bay has some good companion routes to the Bitterfingers Bay further right. Wee...
12
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
Bitterfingers
At some stage every keen climber will find themselves below this wall contemplating an ascent of...
15
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
Tower of Babel
When viewed from Windy Ledge, this thin tower looks like it will fall down at any minute. However,...
3
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
Windy Buttress
The most impressive section of Stoney is the tall Windy Buttress which is home to many superb...
26
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

8 mins

Garage Buttress
An impressive buttress with a good set of trad routes and newer sport routes. The rock is a bit...
49
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

6 mins

sheltered
Goddard's Quarry
A sheltered wall on the huge quarry on the south side of the road.
7
Sport
Early morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
What do these symbols mean?
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For STONEY

    Solitaire
    "There's a loose flake in the middle of the wall - good enough to pull on gently ..." 03/Jul

    Red Mist
    "Changed from 6c+ to 7a, no votes" 15/Jun

    Pygmies Walk Tall
    "I agree with Simon. This is a really good route that has a lot of varied and com..." 24/Apr

    Mind Blind
    "Changed from E5 6b to E6 6b, no votes" 21/Apr

    Windhover
    "The crucial block at the start - providing an undercut then a foot hold as you d..." 29/Aug

    What the Hell?
    "This is a really good route - even the lower wall is okay - but it isn't 4b. I'd..." 26/May

    Gabriel and the Pearly Gates
    "Returning to Pearly Gates after a few years confirmed my impression that it was ..." 24/Apr top50

    Horizon
    "Worthwhile route, though not worth a star." 22/Apr

    Evasor
    "The length given for p1 here (and in the new Peak Limestone Rockfax for which I ..." 17/Oct top50

    Pygmies Walk Tall
    "Was really impressed with this route though it would benefit from more traffic t..." 24/Sep

    Dies Irae
    "Very little wear on this, compared to many routes at Stoney. Rock still felt gri..." 28/Aug

    Lost Horizon
    "S 3c or HS 4a gives a better idea of the bold nature of the route. Some interest..." 02/Jul

    Compositae Groove
    "Pity about the first pitch but the second is probably the best of it's grade at ..." 16/Jun

    Fe Fi Fo Fum
    "A good one for your mate to do, "it's only HVS..."" 25/Jul

    Windhover
    "Felt a bit loose in places today. The start is hard, but there's a hidden crimp ..." 24/Jul

    Brown Corner
    "Steep and dirty but on big holds all the way. Take some large gear (hexs)" 09/Jul

    Search for comments