Stoney, as it is more popularly known, is a crag which most climbers will encounter at some stage in their climbing career. This could be an early visit to tick the plentiful mid-grade classic trad routes like Padme, Pearly Gates, Froth and Sin, or it could be at a later stage, as a seasoned campaigner coming to do battle with the essential yard-stick routes like Scoop Wall, Our Father, Bitter Fingers, Wee Doris and Oliver.

Photo: Garage Buttress © ROCKFAX

ROUTES

111 trad routes (S...E6) 1 sport route (7c) 1 boulder problem (V7) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents

Buttress (click for routes)	No. of Routes	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other	Page
Electric Quarry This quarry contains arguably the finest wall at Stoney but in its least pleasant setting. There is...	19			2 mins		42
Triglyph/Mortuary The isolated tower of rock called the Triglyph has three classic old crack climbs (mostly) with a...	10			5 mins		43
Prayer Wheel Wall The ever-popular Prayer Wheel Wall contains Padme and Mani which get plenty of ascents here but Om...	7			12 mins		44
Traffic Jam Area The Minus Ten, or Traffic Jam, Area is another training venue for the hard-core, however these days...	10			10 mins		45
Carls Wark Directly beneath Prayer Wheel Wall is a hidden bay with a steep wall and clean corner. The easy...	10			12 mins		45
Wee Doris Bay This typical Stoney bay has some good companion routes to the Bitterfingers Bay further right. Wee...	11			10 mins		46
Bitterfingers Bay Area Popular and sheltered bay with an impressive vertical wall. The route Bitterfingers is one of the...	10			10 mins		47
Windy Buttress The most impressive buttress at Stoney. It dominates the view as you look up from the village and...	22			10 mins		48
Garage Buttress An impressive buttress with some big roofs in its upper section. There is plenty of hard stuff and...	14			5 mins		50
		What do these symbols mean?

Padme
"I'm not sure whether pitch 2 (which is probably 5a) can really still be recommen..." 11/Aug

Boat Pushers Wall
"If someone explains where the 'hexes' go il buy em a pint! I have done it and si..." 01/Aug

Flake and Pillar
"Dave - I think I'll take your word for it. Any route to attract the comment &qu..." 29/Jul

Mani
"Led it again a few days ago and E1 5b still seems a fair grade to me" 19/Jul

Flake and Pillar
"This route is okay, the moves the gear etc. Thoughtful maybe but okay. Good war..." 09/Jul

Frisco Bay
"Reasonably clean for Limestone VS, not too polished and worth 2 stars" 05/Jun

The Slurper
"Cleaned the route, both pitches are excellent. Care required with the blocks on ..." 02/Jun

Bitterfingers
"Discovered that a foothold which used to provide a bridged shake-out before movi..." 02/Jun

Mortuary Steps
"An adventure" 29/May

Double Scotch
"The tree isn't there any more - looks like it hasn't been for a while either. T..." 21/Apr

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