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STONEY MIDDLETON

Stoney, as it is more popularly known, is a crag which most climbers will encounter at some stage in their climbing career. This could be an early visit to tick the plentiful mid-grade classic trad routes like Padme, Pearly Gates, Froth and Sin, or it could be at a later stage, as a seasoned campaigner coming to do battle with the essential yard-stick routes like Scoop Wall, Our Father, Bitter Fingers, Wee Doris and Oliver.

Routes

149 trad routes (M...E6) 8 sport routes (7b+...8a+) 1 boulder problem (V7) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents

Buttress (click for routes)	No. of Routes	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other	Page
The Electric Quarry This quarry contains arguably the finest wall at Stoney, but in its least-pleasant setting. There...	20	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 15 mins		44
The Slurper Up the slope to the right of the quarry is a long wall running out to the jutting tower of Mortuary...	5	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 15 mins		46
Mortuary Steps The name is macabre, but the reality is less intimidating, especially the fine HVS up the centre of...	7	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 15 mins	Windy	47
Prayer Wheel Wall The ever-popular and well-sheltered Prayer Wheel Wall is home to Padme and Mani which get plenty of...	11	Trad	Sun to mid-afternoon	Uphill 10 mins		48
The Triglyph This isolated tower of rock has three classic old crack-climbs (mostly) with a classic old first...	4	Trad	Lots of sun!	Uphill 12 mins	Windy	48
Fingal's Cave No description as yet.	8	Trad	Lots of sun!	Uphill 10 mins		50
Pearly Gates The scrappy looking area between Padme and Gabriel and the Pearly Gates is actually worth a second...	7	Trad	Sun to mid-afternoon	Uphill 10 mins		51
Carl's Wark Below Prayer Wheel Wall is a hidden bay with a steep back wall. The easy access to the top has made...	10	Trad	Sun to mid-afternoon	Uphill 10 mins		52
Minus Ten Wall The Minus Ten Area is another long-time training venue for the hard-core. However, these days most...	9	Trad	Sun to mid-afternoon	Uphill 10 mins	Dry in the Rain	54
Medusa Bay This typical Stoney bay has some good companion routes to the Bitterfingers Bay further right. Wee...	12	Trad	Sun to mid-afternoon	Uphill 10 mins		56
Bitterfingers At some stage every keen climber will find themselves below this wall contemplating an ascent of...	10	Trad	Lots of sun!	Uphill 10 mins		58
Tower of Babel When viewed from Windy Ledge, this thin tower looks like it will fall down at any minute. However,...	8	Trad	Sun and shade	Uphill 10 mins		59
Windy Buttress The most impressive section of Stoney is the tall Windy Buttress which is home to many superb...	27	Trad	Lots of sun!	Up and down 8 mins	Windy	60
Garage Buttress An impressive buttress with some big roofs in its upper section. The rock is a bit suspect in...	20	Trad	Lots of sun!	Level 6 mins	Windy	66
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STONEY MIDDLETON

Routes

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